Colin B and I had a productive trip into Strobach yesterday. We climbed what we believe is the first complete ascent of Unholy Baptism. The first pitch (~70m) was ice pouring out over the cliff with a thin top out. This pitch took 13cm screws but the ice was rotten and most pro was suspect. The second pitch (~65m) started on some cauliflower and mixed climbing on the right then climbed 20m of sustained and overhanging ice to a small stance and another 30m of vertical ice. We used 12 screws and a few finger-sized cams and blades on this this pitch. Thankfully the second pitch took 16cm screws for most of it's length but again the top-out was thin junky ice that offered little protection. We rappelled from a tree up and right of the climb. Unholy Baptism certainly seem like a fitting name for this climb. It's the steepest and most sustained pitch either of us have climbed and feel that it merits the WI6 grade in current conditions.
|Colin embracing the Screaming Barfies|
|Colin contemplates the dorp...|
|Colin nearing the top of second pitch|