tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-322028122024-03-12T17:54:22.503-07:00ContraseriusNate Farrhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01500209369684653499noreply@blogger.comBlogger116125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-32202812.post-21140590164275302392015-05-19T21:15:00.001-07:002015-05-19T21:23:28.282-07:00Adventure Punks<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
Despite a reputation for soft grades and comfortable climbing, more often than not, the routes in Red Rock can bit a little heady, and sometimes downright bold. Of course, the previous sentence is not referring to Urioste clip-ups (many of which I really enjoy). Some of the original Yosemite "stone masters" such as Richard Harrison, Paul Van Betten and Sal Mamusia (aka the Adventure Punks) put up some unequivocally bold routes in the canyon. Among them (though certainly not the zenith) is <i>Adventure Punks 5.10d X? R? PG13? 5 pitches</i>. Jared and I reunited for some proverbial slam-dancing on the highly underrated, Adventure Punks. <br />
<br />
About 20 ft off the deck on Adventure Punks two thoughts occurred to me: First, "I'm 20 ft up, pulling a 5.9 move and think I might fall and break my ankles," Second, "even if I make this move I haven't placed a cam in almost a year." The route gets most of its fearful status from the X/R/PG-13 rated start of the first pitch. The climbing is actually a lot easier after that... but not that easy. Every pitch has intricate gear placements and delicate climbing for the grade. Jared and I agreed that the 10a/b rated fourth pitch seemed headier and more difficult than the guidebook crux fifth pitch off-width. In its current state, the fifth pitch has two new bolts placed long after the first ascent. Without these bolts some extra wide-gear might be required, but with a little trickery (pushing the big cams along as you climb) it shouldn't affect the way the pitch climbs or protects. Regardless, this fifth pitch must have been the climbing equivalent of a banzai charge before the advent of wide cams. Plan accordingly and embrace technology!<br />
<br />
Approach: ~1 hour. Walk past the Mescalito and follow cairns up and left toward Adventure Punks.<br />
<br />
Rack: Offset Stoppers, Single Set Cams to #6 (extra #5 and #6 if bolts chopped), Offset Cams in tips/fingers (optional but nice). 2 ropes to rappel. We heard that a single 80 m rope would work for raps but cannot confirm.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnLjRaMO56JB6yO8RPT8oHv3FMiaR2FgR5jgD4SBFR7UN5dJGGKd8eDmudXyHukLCm-8s_q2QCsylYd6AvRxIm-I4HxCvc2k7xbnCm02IhSlw84tpfisfmhJdNub9YaaFTnpEOKw/s1600/IMG_5472.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="223" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnLjRaMO56JB6yO8RPT8oHv3FMiaR2FgR5jgD4SBFR7UN5dJGGKd8eDmudXyHukLCm-8s_q2QCsylYd6AvRxIm-I4HxCvc2k7xbnCm02IhSlw84tpfisfmhJdNub9YaaFTnpEOKw/s400/IMG_5472.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jared following the first pitch. He is roughly where the<br />
first decent protection is found... a long way from the haul bag.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnLjRaMO56JB6yO8RPT8oHv3FMiaR2FgR5jgD4SBFR7UN5dJGGKd8eDmudXyHukLCm-8s_q2QCsylYd6AvRxIm-I4HxCvc2k7xbnCm02IhSlw84tpfisfmhJdNub9YaaFTnpEOKw/s1600/IMG_5472.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnLjRaMO56JB6yO8RPT8oHv3FMiaR2FgR5jgD4SBFR7UN5dJGGKd8eDmudXyHukLCm-8s_q2QCsylYd6AvRxIm-I4HxCvc2k7xbnCm02IhSlw84tpfisfmhJdNub9YaaFTnpEOKw/s1600/IMG_5472.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><br /></a></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoTN9wh3jjXg-SAdmO99QRGsh47w9IiCgUMqKeEk_6YJ1NhGojlRELj35CN0170e69oZcHlSeGjkfix3EATwXoM5SqA8EOz7at8GKxjqlQOxp8NsvyUCaFrYp6DQ6I4QFLFOjPIA/s1600/IMG_1158.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjoTN9wh3jjXg-SAdmO99QRGsh47w9IiCgUMqKeEk_6YJ1NhGojlRELj35CN0170e69oZcHlSeGjkfix3EATwXoM5SqA8EOz7at8GKxjqlQOxp8NsvyUCaFrYp6DQ6I4QFLFOjPIA/s400/IMG_1158.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Stellar climbing on the third pitch...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiraBhEX3Ixr9zLCocqA6Fg480MgxNUq5XqNR6z75jN1FMq8Kva27axe-fD7p4WAaaWlaW3gtvIBT61GKv8kpdbx3FjJNFuwOSide7kBFBCxdsVpTdZhCyeaOacjM4tQlGl5j1Rxw/s1600/IMG_1160.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiraBhEX3Ixr9zLCocqA6Fg480MgxNUq5XqNR6z75jN1FMq8Kva27axe-fD7p4WAaaWlaW3gtvIBT61GKv8kpdbx3FjJNFuwOSide7kBFBCxdsVpTdZhCyeaOacjM4tQlGl5j1Rxw/s400/IMG_1160.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Heady climbing on the fourth pitch. The route climbs left through<br />
the steep head wall on a flaring crack with thin face climbing above...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxgbMMMO0IR_FjZsbzjP4a6EiZABSoj8kvjBCHgy8XkSAeLB0dfDCh2VVJLyHqA95jVSshEGeR2uCq0uT2eGVrAKlCDgibsN8efjf546WP3axxT9w6Osz_j3l4rSonxmsZX4mFmA/s1600/IMG_5475.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="223" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjxgbMMMO0IR_FjZsbzjP4a6EiZABSoj8kvjBCHgy8XkSAeLB0dfDCh2VVJLyHqA95jVSshEGeR2uCq0uT2eGVrAKlCDgibsN8efjf546WP3axxT9w6Osz_j3l4rSonxmsZX4mFmA/s400/IMG_5475.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jared leading out on the second pitch... </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkdISiDEjVCOO-XWM9l2nlw6g0aZZ_PgKm2fU0si6Cr3mctnYeoxA16b19JGtWa-c2rjm693OYKtdjrLfDFcTdPu6SE7TGBzJ3l5uYz1pRf6Sst35SSVMPWCMzdKsj_vnGAfkBiA/s1600/IMG_5482.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="223" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkdISiDEjVCOO-XWM9l2nlw6g0aZZ_PgKm2fU0si6Cr3mctnYeoxA16b19JGtWa-c2rjm693OYKtdjrLfDFcTdPu6SE7TGBzJ3l5uYz1pRf6Sst35SSVMPWCMzdKsj_vnGAfkBiA/s400/IMG_5482.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View down the third pitch...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJt04wVfU7I9TJyE2Lh2moDxAwgb9-uLoXvnsqGY5lL5RZTKiUZNi-2ILELsg3u7bL5icGcgzZKNd6pwJxTNakibja6VJD4uFJYDyVu0k8W73BrnUjOwCjuz_H9znM9OvUf2_Sjg/s1600/IMG_5490.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="223" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJt04wVfU7I9TJyE2Lh2moDxAwgb9-uLoXvnsqGY5lL5RZTKiUZNi-2ILELsg3u7bL5icGcgzZKNd6pwJxTNakibja6VJD4uFJYDyVu0k8W73BrnUjOwCjuz_H9znM9OvUf2_Sjg/s400/IMG_5490.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Another view of the third pitch...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<br />
<br />
<br />Nate Farrhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01500209369684653499noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-32202812.post-72849106808289462362014-06-14T18:24:00.001-07:002014-06-14T22:23:58.953-07:00It's Getting Warm In Here<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
It's June and it is starting to get warm in Las Vegas. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
The Las Vegas "winter" is three months of blazing heat. As far as compromises go, I suppose retreating to electric light and artificial air for three months is better than nine months of hibernation and moss growing in the PNW. Last year at this time, highs in Las Vegas were pushing 120 degrees Fahrenheit. Mere low-triple-digits are a blessing. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
In my two-ish years living in Las Vegas, I can say that late-May through September and November through February are my favorite months. The downside of living at a "destination" area is that the crowds gather during peak times of the year. I consider Red Rocks un-climbable during March and April, when essentially everyone I know is visiting the area to get on the classics. During this time of year you should be prepared to wait for a half-dozen parties to siege their way up whatever route you were intended to climb that day. If you wait another month, when "it is too hot" you will find empty crags and tolerable temperatures. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
June is that month. Triple digit heat and direct sun make it a choir to reach the wall. However, if you choose a shady wall, you can climb in shorts and a tee-shirt. In addition to the comfortable temperatures in the shade, the crags are absolutely empty. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
My buddy Rob visited Las Vegas a couple days ago. During the few days Rob was in Las Vegas we climbed Crimson Chrysalis, Triassic Sands and Inti Watana to Resolution all without even seeing another party. I'm not sure where everyone else is, but it is all happening in Red Rock in June.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTp2-x9HYMxoRYBQ9hUVFLs4rsEdNYN1AfoIsSV9j8Pw8yQm3TTz61JzAFzIvzSiXduSuOnLNhv4a3i50YrD-GGqGQglRDqc2xgY4p-ochvqeun7VAC777d2QmpQ7iB0d2TQ77lg/s1600/IMG_3261.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhTp2-x9HYMxoRYBQ9hUVFLs4rsEdNYN1AfoIsSV9j8Pw8yQm3TTz61JzAFzIvzSiXduSuOnLNhv4a3i50YrD-GGqGQglRDqc2xgY4p-ochvqeun7VAC777d2QmpQ7iB0d2TQ77lg/s1600/IMG_3261.JPG" height="221" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rob somewhere on Crimson Chrysalis.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfr7qHXpM7bjE_Gp1oxOmnNb0bBPgCaRyxuq0Nn0oZgYE9-i-yXm8TSMV_9_mttQfXOVHnDcXwjkqCxBahfuGc8rLEc8rd1BeIZD66pEPUw0RNBIl0kmcHKpmwEYstVbJErtSOBA/s1600/IMG_3270.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhfr7qHXpM7bjE_Gp1oxOmnNb0bBPgCaRyxuq0Nn0oZgYE9-i-yXm8TSMV_9_mttQfXOVHnDcXwjkqCxBahfuGc8rLEc8rd1BeIZD66pEPUw0RNBIl0kmcHKpmwEYstVbJErtSOBA/s1600/IMG_3270.JPG" height="221" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">All alone on the most popular route in Red Rocks...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUG8l2jFHdVc23qAD954upDrW6vx0Jy8Dv_QjNCh3LLJBjZZINtY4Y6PLRrUEm2bYIGz3tV5KsuV8v24h5fI2A-nEk9fwjSqQqIdkOKmvR_UfhOvwP_OzJkYVBiNC0278ZUcNdFA/s1600/IMG_3280.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUG8l2jFHdVc23qAD954upDrW6vx0Jy8Dv_QjNCh3LLJBjZZINtY4Y6PLRrUEm2bYIGz3tV5KsuV8v24h5fI2A-nEk9fwjSqQqIdkOKmvR_UfhOvwP_OzJkYVBiNC0278ZUcNdFA/s1600/IMG_3280.JPG" height="400" width="221" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rob on the first pitch of Triassic Sands.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpsgMe9TFdsL_kh0kYqjDUuHfxSS8xXisLZgUQilCab8O4dwowEx7Ue4kbHCsZnJVDoL-TDsMinDYN0rMMHSPPE2tsnkGnxsX1kX-jz3BZvmkf0ghpRXWcwiyL9ota-ZZulbKdaQ/s1600/IMG_3294.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpsgMe9TFdsL_kh0kYqjDUuHfxSS8xXisLZgUQilCab8O4dwowEx7Ue4kbHCsZnJVDoL-TDsMinDYN0rMMHSPPE2tsnkGnxsX1kX-jz3BZvmkf0ghpRXWcwiyL9ota-ZZulbKdaQ/s1600/IMG_3294.JPG" height="400" width="221" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rob up high on Mt. Wilson<br /> and the Rainbow Enscarpment</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhk3b-GW1E6yo182jjCB1a3QUPnuBIiOsFUg6kp8vIpnSZKlywwoD8uH88ryx4zonadYin0dJz_8CpSgBg9pwLcyaye7tXF9XlO4llmVJW4OCG4bF9xMVAf8LeqkShJxNrc3d73BQ/s1600/IMG_3297.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhk3b-GW1E6yo182jjCB1a3QUPnuBIiOsFUg6kp8vIpnSZKlywwoD8uH88ryx4zonadYin0dJz_8CpSgBg9pwLcyaye7tXF9XlO4llmVJW4OCG4bF9xMVAf8LeqkShJxNrc3d73BQ/s1600/IMG_3297.JPG" height="221" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking down from the 11th pitch of Inti Watana.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjG8H3O8STqqIJ_hA8H_-duDoNDBgL2_UDv4bTHJw-34qcmVAcWKF7N5aHmGC30eABE0DYCOwZdt63nqBK66yUESSfVyQLkjiC1huPKm-nRrDRFtVTbv97rRwkjBhjGkmUAPplJ5w/s1600/IMG_3303.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjG8H3O8STqqIJ_hA8H_-duDoNDBgL2_UDv4bTHJw-34qcmVAcWKF7N5aHmGC30eABE0DYCOwZdt63nqBK66yUESSfVyQLkjiC1huPKm-nRrDRFtVTbv97rRwkjBhjGkmUAPplJ5w/s1600/IMG_3303.JPG" height="400" width="221" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rob up high while desert rockneering<br />on Mt. Wilson.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />Nate Farrhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01500209369684653499noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-32202812.post-65492839185679096172014-06-09T23:31:00.002-07:002014-06-14T21:56:18.844-07:00Les Miserables Alpine climbers, much like the characters in Les Miserables, are mainly concerned with avoiding the chop. For Jean Valjean it was fear of the guillotine, for alpine climbers it is a vast multitude of fears: seracs, avalanches, cornices, rockfall, falling, phantom, etc... <br />
<br />
On Mount Hunter's North Buttress this past May, the fear was palpable. The North Buttress has been the scene of fatalities, perhaps most notably, Steve Mascioli. The face is littered by car-sized (and larger) snow mushrooms, pasted improbably to steep walls and roofs. One of these snow mushrooms collapsed in warm conditions, killing him instantly. Given the record high May temperatures at the Kahiltna Base Camp, this thought was ever-conscious as we ascended the face and passed many gargantuan snow mushrooms.<br />
<br />
The conditions we encountered were far from the sticky blue ice seen in pictures from teams running up the face in a day or two. In fact, the conditions were quite bony. We climbed through several pitches nearly devoid of protection. We found ourselves at the belays, questioning whether we ought to have just climbed the pitch. Regardless, the climbing was never hard enough to shut us down but the sum of all fears was sufficient to stop our ascent. <br />
<br />
I know more risk adverse climbers would have continued. The climbing was not impossible. However, if a snow mushroom had collapsed and killed us, other climbers would have looked at the temperatures and said "What did they expect? It was record high temperatures." <br />
<br />
Climbers always justify the risk, insisting that they would not make the same mistakes as parties who made poor choices and paid dearly. In reality, most climbers justify the risks and then make the same decisions as those who perished before them. <br />
<br />
Some get away with it, some don't. <br />
<br />
If you believe you make better decisions than those that passed before you, then you actually need to make those difficult decisions. If you do not make the difficult choices, then you have deluded yourself. A successful ascent does not necessarily mean you made better decisions. You were just luckier.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXmZqkd2wdJ6SMcej8OQVHt_h9AgdLF79_961ZEdkAoR6L_3hEErSF1OisyHciyoahDC5NDqX5mJ_S3hFdAi71Fn8sJk4IAToDH8qr0l4AZd7KaaqwgHzP5US24OjBw0BiznpUog/s1600/IMG_3175.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXmZqkd2wdJ6SMcej8OQVHt_h9AgdLF79_961ZEdkAoR6L_3hEErSF1OisyHciyoahDC5NDqX5mJ_S3hFdAi71Fn8sJk4IAToDH8qr0l4AZd7KaaqwgHzP5US24OjBw0BiznpUog/s1600/IMG_3175.JPG" height="400" width="221" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mt. Hunter's North Buttress</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhumEKLjUzZJ_X442R67sjPpPzKT5klk3Ohj1-Z6KsJpC-kGSf2AHpRKiz0-fhz-hoqky7wYXZPqiC2eBuFKYVtERh0ghr57JqOtzHJ9YjQX9YETEn8KWiHg8IDSdfMXbf1XtI-Yw/s1600/IMG_3202.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhumEKLjUzZJ_X442R67sjPpPzKT5klk3Ohj1-Z6KsJpC-kGSf2AHpRKiz0-fhz-hoqky7wYXZPqiC2eBuFKYVtERh0ghr57JqOtzHJ9YjQX9YETEn8KWiHg8IDSdfMXbf1XtI-Yw/s1600/IMG_3202.JPG" height="221" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Marcus low on the North Buttress. This ice sections would be melted<br />
out two days later and not frozen overnight.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxDGzmfiYj6UiS4j0_he6PkfeIg6oqKW_2oJj-vBpvDBe0BEgS7Ih_zHmG_FswXN6N-oiUJOg7PIQZqG6P-mfgVKQ0eJnWD5ZSfKwjwxcfM5cEebY9hAKdjcAI_9R8dCu7TI7obQ/s1600/2014-05-25+(6).jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgxDGzmfiYj6UiS4j0_he6PkfeIg6oqKW_2oJj-vBpvDBe0BEgS7Ih_zHmG_FswXN6N-oiUJOg7PIQZqG6P-mfgVKQ0eJnWD5ZSfKwjwxcfM5cEebY9hAKdjcAI_9R8dCu7TI7obQ/s1600/2014-05-25+(6).jpg" height="400" width="221" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Myself somewhere on the North Butress...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWqp5n7ZywpHdmzccVKn2ze2EPILvzmUaX2Vt8gcpGH5zuYLoEw81JdnB1p9w9hiA0Fh9HmtVOC-2GpoDA8VH3qj-6t7WtJ7zlPkIhiwHpVSm5MESp11_ZBGIzdcFCA2VC6Hw9Uw/s1600/2014-05-25.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiWqp5n7ZywpHdmzccVKn2ze2EPILvzmUaX2Vt8gcpGH5zuYLoEw81JdnB1p9w9hiA0Fh9HmtVOC-2GpoDA8VH3qj-6t7WtJ7zlPkIhiwHpVSm5MESp11_ZBGIzdcFCA2VC6Hw9Uw/s1600/2014-05-25.jpg" height="400" width="221" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Aiding the bergschrund on pickets and screws...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />Nate Farrhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01500209369684653499noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-32202812.post-7619566380535718952014-02-10T22:13:00.000-08:002014-02-10T22:13:10.293-08:00Never WinterLas Vegas, like most of the Western United States, had no winter this year. We had many 70+ degree days, lots of sunshine and prime rock climbing conditions. Despite being an ice climber at heart, I have to admit that climbing pitch after pitch of warm rock and cooling off with a beer afterward is pretty nice. I had hoped to tap into Utah and Mt. Charleston to get a bunch of ice mileage this season, but nothing formed in the balmy temperatures. Despite the poor conditions, I did manage to snag several routes that, while not notably difficult, are absolute classics. <div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Of course, with Red Rock Canyon in my backyard it is difficult to not come home with a bunch of classics under your belt. Thankfully, I have a partner who isn't tired of lapping the classics and is always eager to get out and put in the work for the longer routes. The other great thing about Las Vegas is its proximity to other destination climbing areas, like Joshua Tree. I was lucky enough to have a half-dozen or so days in Joshua Tree this season.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtR4dQSc93sifPb6eRVaeAAGsCOqaB-9s0ul1aS8mWbMqqma3qr_k-7wLNRAmExH3xNbTtWFwH52vZTqWZl2VfTKdp7351Ai0BnzZ_y1p8wh2ShfRUsR43AABYvz2nFpOcNgm4AA/s1600/photo+5.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtR4dQSc93sifPb6eRVaeAAGsCOqaB-9s0ul1aS8mWbMqqma3qr_k-7wLNRAmExH3xNbTtWFwH52vZTqWZl2VfTKdp7351Ai0BnzZ_y1p8wh2ShfRUsR43AABYvz2nFpOcNgm4AA/s1600/photo+5.JPG" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Enjoying a full 70 meter of ice in <br />deteriorating conditions on the "Zicicle"</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLF7ky6NxI1XFmTJeHhn2WUItXbQUnv4g7UP2cOpAkW5vdI06yy_33wmLkmKagX0pK8jW5YmmhPqCM_A16u8oC4G8uFOLPKcsNx3paYHfCKAFIdpGYOYRS2e2UcSNI0W2-ctuXdw/s1600/photo.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiLF7ky6NxI1XFmTJeHhn2WUItXbQUnv4g7UP2cOpAkW5vdI06yy_33wmLkmKagX0pK8jW5YmmhPqCM_A16u8oC4G8uFOLPKcsNx3paYHfCKAFIdpGYOYRS2e2UcSNI0W2-ctuXdw/s1600/photo.JPG" height="320" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Adrift in a stony sea on Levitation 29</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhECJfm4IVAFQxJQKJChE5i_-rDHboD3kfcqHxSvDsSbPIeQUR8sCw7FLmSHhXKGo7DsIGwLGXDHiUpTJxoG8vKbC_TllB-ORhciufh_S4-lYH77AUw_F4Lpy8lTo6FkAk6QiWcbg/s1600/IMG_2986.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhECJfm4IVAFQxJQKJChE5i_-rDHboD3kfcqHxSvDsSbPIeQUR8sCw7FLmSHhXKGo7DsIGwLGXDHiUpTJxoG8vKbC_TllB-ORhciufh_S4-lYH77AUw_F4Lpy8lTo6FkAk6QiWcbg/s1600/IMG_2986.JPG" height="320" width="178" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jared crushing on Eagle's Dance, we were<br />dive bombed by several raptors during the climb...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5jG8VWLv-f2Y1H6dezgjVb9MllNqtquhGmqIlkDfd8JhVdV7m9UPWKW4HI5Pz1Jao0bCkfFaz-bbMCCZKchSR_S4SjeXftzeylvGaYSDyqcqWoPy9H8ayjj5UiVSdXfjXSETXsQ/s1600/IMG_2943.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5jG8VWLv-f2Y1H6dezgjVb9MllNqtquhGmqIlkDfd8JhVdV7m9UPWKW4HI5Pz1Jao0bCkfFaz-bbMCCZKchSR_S4SjeXftzeylvGaYSDyqcqWoPy9H8ayjj5UiVSdXfjXSETXsQ/s1600/IMG_2943.JPG" height="178" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Marcus make casual work of Birdbrain Boulevard</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjesDezp3fkDPAXwpTZzr9DwbEluWA9WzKFAhYryoEHbVot2eEAuys6Mg8NkOYmMlUFjMfxPbSztgwi34i7h3ZR94jXjmWQgSPUO6mnH7BqBY5e5tPAVqhnjBUEX8fm7crLmYf1XA/s1600/photo+3.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjesDezp3fkDPAXwpTZzr9DwbEluWA9WzKFAhYryoEHbVot2eEAuys6Mg8NkOYmMlUFjMfxPbSztgwi34i7h3ZR94jXjmWQgSPUO6mnH7BqBY5e5tPAVqhnjBUEX8fm7crLmYf1XA/s1600/photo+3.JPG" height="320" width="215" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Hoping for <i>Hot Rocks 11b</i> in cool temps in Joshua Tree.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div>
<br /></div>
Nate Farrhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01500209369684653499noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-32202812.post-61801643100828298722013-11-15T09:02:00.001-08:002013-11-17T17:11:30.385-08:00Hey You! Get Off of My Cloud!The Cloud Tower is one of Red Rock Canyon's mega-classic routes. Jared and I ran up the route last week and needless to say, we agree. Every pitch on this route is a classic for the grade and having them stacked one upon-the-other makes it a masterpiece. Though this route goes at 11d (some say harder, but the crux is a lot easier than many RR 12a's) you can plug protection almost anywhere, making it a perfect route to break into the grade. If you can climb within a grade of 11d, get on it, you won't be disappointed.<br />
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Make sure to pack the following: 2x 000C3-#4C4, 3x0-2C3, 3x#1-2C4, 4x#3C4 (Think about taking an extra #2 and leaving a #1 behind). For the descent a single 70m works for all raps, but you'll need a second rope for the first rap (and to tag the pack on the crux). I'd advise you stop at every rap station on the way down (rather than making longer raps) as the descent is a real rope-eater.<br />
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3gBR64oTcapexRTXAG4Ua3DCPmKYYGhegFZkEUXZRqv7zZ7zBK__oWk14ysaUPY6e1lLCWjST6qBOaRhW72rZVzmfa5nBqQbQoPXza7RjyNXLRthr8WH-2RAgH8fTrnfLeHFQFg/s1600/IMG_2886.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="356" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi3gBR64oTcapexRTXAG4Ua3DCPmKYYGhegFZkEUXZRqv7zZ7zBK__oWk14ysaUPY6e1lLCWjST6qBOaRhW72rZVzmfa5nBqQbQoPXza7RjyNXLRthr8WH-2RAgH8fTrnfLeHFQFg/s640/IMG_2886.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jared leading the perfect hand crack on pitch 3.<br />
<br /></td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJuylS2tG6rLwVCgUbehR9mEWX0dYKnckp_JRQBmFt70nHR6pUdJUacSVF14Mkk8Q3v5-1yxaOlzsJuLR_FzJ3nHI8PwUG17QF3gEAYQRfTShsvJjZ3k3YQ88mwVlYLCkedVlG8w/s1600/IMG_2895.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="356" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgJuylS2tG6rLwVCgUbehR9mEWX0dYKnckp_JRQBmFt70nHR6pUdJUacSVF14Mkk8Q3v5-1yxaOlzsJuLR_FzJ3nHI8PwUG17QF3gEAYQRfTShsvJjZ3k3YQ88mwVlYLCkedVlG8w/s640/IMG_2895.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jared about to punch it on pitch 4.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOY7eMnY5tKbdGV9XGMCXInmA5Mk9k8LhmXq72ezgntiQDhzpKdwq9zHcljKBO8EAd0nks6plPC26A3FScTIVnm3VoCl3dOl4Hqgso0bWJnIzDfNSLtQw8l3ua_P139A4XFk0ivQ/s1600/DSCN0277.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgOY7eMnY5tKbdGV9XGMCXInmA5Mk9k8LhmXq72ezgntiQDhzpKdwq9zHcljKBO8EAd0nks6plPC26A3FScTIVnm3VoCl3dOl4Hqgso0bWJnIzDfNSLtQw8l3ua_P139A4XFk0ivQ/s400/DSCN0277.jpg" width="300" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsVU33xVGiHKcQVAwF1W3N_LsMvfoeV14nheKGrmvxhWz3qxyeMlil8dnqrig_P59_3X1YMIQL-h6j3aCTVv7eFlpTQPizorh9weodsr_wvEOjKctQwphPh0q0RHFXPQlXOfE6MA/s1600/DSCN0280.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjsVU33xVGiHKcQVAwF1W3N_LsMvfoeV14nheKGrmvxhWz3qxyeMlil8dnqrig_P59_3X1YMIQL-h6j3aCTVv7eFlpTQPizorh9weodsr_wvEOjKctQwphPh0q0RHFXPQlXOfE6MA/s400/DSCN0280.jpg" width="300" /></a></div>
Nate Farrhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01500209369684653499noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-32202812.post-66806584083611050542013-11-15T08:38:00.001-08:002013-11-15T08:41:29.047-08:00Red Rock Sympathiomimetics<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjAIYr6Xd1xnJV_L8y-WJFw8IuUIDAUqdNchCKi98XIBEAq9a15oDDfxRlD19ZkDiJUO8csJzf3WLSPERIhVs6JUH1FVTinIH2pm9cbYuhb1cxun2vMTNBkBS4MiHPcpxCXTu8oA/s1600/IMG_2629.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjjAIYr6Xd1xnJV_L8y-WJFw8IuUIDAUqdNchCKi98XIBEAq9a15oDDfxRlD19ZkDiJUO8csJzf3WLSPERIhVs6JUH1FVTinIH2pm9cbYuhb1cxun2vMTNBkBS4MiHPcpxCXTu8oA/s400/IMG_2629.JPG" width="223" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jared entering the classic <br />chimney pitches on Epinephrine.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div>
<br /></div>
I'll admit it, I underestimated summers in Las Vegas. They are unequivocally hot.<br />
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Needless to say, there aren't a lot of traveling climbers in the area during the summer so the classics are vacant. But you still have to beat the heat.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Our solution to this problem was a 3pm start for the mega-classic Epinephrine. We still suffered through triple digit heat and a sunny approach, but the Black Velvet Canyon was shady and offered a relative reprieve. Unfortunately, the late start in the late summer meant that we were caught by night on the final ramp leading to the summit. Fortunately for us, I think the reports of a difficult descent are generated by inexperienced climbers. We found the descent very straight-forward, except below Frogland, and were back at the car in short order.</div>
Nate Farrhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01500209369684653499noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-32202812.post-45940331072795755942013-08-11T22:01:00.004-07:002013-08-11T22:05:25.803-07:00Nouveau Classique in the Bugaboos<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Blake and I had an opportunity to make a short trip in the
Bugaboos at the end of July. While we had fantastic snow conditions and
generally dry rock, an unsettled weather forecast kept us from going after our
main objective on North Howser Tower. Most
days it snowed but we were able to continue climbing in marginal weather. Though this is my third trip to the range, my
future tick-list is a little longer than when I arrived. Blake and I got on two newer classic routes,
climbed one area-standby and got lost somewhere in the hinterlands between two routes. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhNILaliFaFxmiQTlm8BmSdGzcsl6b5bABN2U5WShQlPACybsLMeu6-zWab6OkzP1knBy8JJSez53aml53U2MMkAoHk32hBVjsea2RDJ1Z1abKt3x6QuquT8bXoWeU-42428oF-A/s1600/Divine.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="356" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhNILaliFaFxmiQTlm8BmSdGzcsl6b5bABN2U5WShQlPACybsLMeu6-zWab6OkzP1knBy8JJSez53aml53U2MMkAoHk32hBVjsea2RDJ1Z1abKt3x6QuquT8bXoWeU-42428oF-A/s640/Divine.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Blake coming up the fantastic second pitch of Divine Intervention.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<o:p><br /></o:p></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
Day one saw us on the new route called Divine Intervention
on Bugaboo Spire. The route climbs the
left side of the face, as viewed from Applebee Dome, and then joins the NE
Ridge to the summit. The route’s name
came after the first ascensionist fell while soloing high on the route and his
certain demise was halted by a piece of gear errantly clipped to his harness
happened to catch upon the rock mid-fall.
Most parties (ourselves included) climb only the initial five pitches
(about two pitches from the NE Ridge variation) and descend back to the glacier. The “easy” climbing on this route felt high
in the grade, which took the sting out of the 11b crux. For future aspirants, the 11b face climbing
is well protected but you will have to climb mid-5.11 above your gear. For something 30min from camp, this is a
mega-classic that could be extended to a full-day if you continue to the summit
and down the Kain Route.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPGpsET5MUfSsf1yBfjg-sy9Q-rQrHc0CEtlanz__zkjjJH5knAdTqeqkhYPqHmzXYtcuIhM0o6UfgjxHvn0IP4UPK6ts97cTceHKcvqoUMYZvHG509DAR7YQ0L7xRq10NPM_Y0g/s1600/Sun2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPGpsET5MUfSsf1yBfjg-sy9Q-rQrHc0CEtlanz__zkjjJH5knAdTqeqkhYPqHmzXYtcuIhM0o6UfgjxHvn0IP4UPK6ts97cTceHKcvqoUMYZvHG509DAR7YQ0L7xRq10NPM_Y0g/s400/Sun2.JPG" width="223" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Blake leading out on Sunshine Crack.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNH9m9OSQJlVaweWw6KOzqvnZg3w0kuphrBxZX64h1EDnhQ-WyP6gXkOyYoCB4yvcMWK6mJ3YHEvQQfDxN0Ib5as_gEI8Ljbkjrmo2IkiTfo9KBMXCE-DICRHUPZU6x_r2CnmFHQ/s1600/Sunshine.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgNH9m9OSQJlVaweWw6KOzqvnZg3w0kuphrBxZX64h1EDnhQ-WyP6gXkOyYoCB4yvcMWK6mJ3YHEvQQfDxN0Ib5as_gEI8Ljbkjrmo2IkiTfo9KBMXCE-DICRHUPZU6x_r2CnmFHQ/s400/Sunshine.JPG" width="223" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lots of wide climbing...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br />
We had a forecast for 70% precipitation on day two and
decided to get on Sunshine Crack.
Sunshine Crack has a short approach, bolted rap stations for an easy
descent and has absolutely fantastic climbing on every pitch. This route is not to be missed but be
forewarned there is a lot of wide-crack climbing. You could easily bring three #4 camalots and
not feel like you brought too many.
Thankfully, Blake conceded and allowed us to bring both of our #4’s. With all due respect he did lead the
sustained wide-crack pitch, so I suppose I can’t complain!</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi57htkvLWErIwjWMXj7pp-BRJqhMFb8UgktydDuqJuUQkCjxALrkX9dNRe0C7PIkKAg0S8J0xtXaaRN6LqOVAc745G4psMAZ7lbll_PVytR49EYIeGvXBKj_xt7PtgURXX6_89Ww/s1600/Send1.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi57htkvLWErIwjWMXj7pp-BRJqhMFb8UgktydDuqJuUQkCjxALrkX9dNRe0C7PIkKAg0S8J0xtXaaRN6LqOVAc745G4psMAZ7lbll_PVytR49EYIeGvXBKj_xt7PtgURXX6_89Ww/s400/Send1.JPG" width="223" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Blake about to start up the first 12+ pitch...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5o9Bp14bkaMFey0UXqwU9zsfcGm5Rw_rLOR-_JMeNwXpZ1eaHYXALkqK-udL02Z4mPVPgZRoJv0YPYuA8XgH6BLAagXjbbFnEZZWC2ct5_OjzLkiJvg5ohJ-EIX128vN8ndy4vw/s1600/Send2.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj5o9Bp14bkaMFey0UXqwU9zsfcGm5Rw_rLOR-_JMeNwXpZ1eaHYXALkqK-udL02Z4mPVPgZRoJv0YPYuA8XgH6BLAagXjbbFnEZZWC2ct5_OjzLkiJvg5ohJ-EIX128vN8ndy4vw/s400/Send2.JPG" width="223" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The amazing reverse split pillar pitch...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
The best climbing on our trip was on the new route Sendero
Norte. While we did not get up the entire
route, our two attempts were still worthwhile.
Sendero Norte is a proud, proud route on the E Face of Snowpatch
Spire. There are two 5.12+ pitches, one 5.11+
pitch, one 5.11b pitch, several 5.11a’s and many 5.10/10+ pitches. We climbed the lion’s share of the
difficulties on both of our attempts but bailed due to a storm and
free-climbing meltdown/fatigue respectively.
Personally I was pretty fatigued on day-five, our second attempt, and
wasn’t able to send my pitches. I
certainly climbed worse than on our first attempt. I can’t say the performance was due to
fatigue, a meltdown or it being generally hard but I will return to finish this
route.</div>
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
Our only non-classic day was our fourth. After a morning vacillating over route
selection we headed for the North Tower Direct on the W Face of Snowpatch Spire. I climbed about 60m of dirty, gritty climbing
before deciding to bail in search of something better. We recalibrated and headed up a route
immediately to the left called Flamingo Fling.
What we ended up climbing, I can’t exactly say. I’d
call it type-2 fun. It was dirty, gritty,
grungy, adventurous climbing. I’ve
learned that this type of climbing is genuine type-1 fun for Blake (perhaps he
just uses a different scale?). </div>
Nate Farrhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01500209369684653499noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-32202812.post-51522212484739818352013-06-16T15:40:00.001-07:002013-06-16T15:40:49.742-07:00Riding The Rainbow<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
The Original Route on the Rainbow Wall is unequivocally one of the best routes I've ever climbed. It has an easy approach and descent, the climbing is clean and enjoyable and most pitches would be an area classic even if they weren't stacked upon each other. The grade should not turn anyone away. If you even think you have a chance to climb 12a then you'll be able to figure it out. The cruxes are short, could be avoided with french-free and interspersed with easier climbing. This is a route that you want to do, and once you've done it, you'll want to climb it again.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHC7PBZjsDpmn7CBJcFP4dMer9imw7XXqK53GRuXbD5sm9PxXcWZEaG38qh0gcflnrnpWo2BLjkNHrIg87TX1xcKuxd7c8Hl61J5sySEX3K7dBgbtQiCrf57uStYyIUT-9o2h7Qw/s1600/IMG_2356.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="356" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHC7PBZjsDpmn7CBJcFP4dMer9imw7XXqK53GRuXbD5sm9PxXcWZEaG38qh0gcflnrnpWo2BLjkNHrIg87TX1xcKuxd7c8Hl61J5sySEX3K7dBgbtQiCrf57uStYyIUT-9o2h7Qw/s640/IMG_2356.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jared grabbing the finishing jug on the 11d eleventh pitch. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
Approach: We had seen some reference online that said we could expect a 3-4 hour approach. Even at a casual pace with several water stops and wrong turns we did the approach in 1:45. On the way down, in the dark, we did it in just over an hour. A lot of people seem to bivouac at the base of this route. There is absolutely no reason to bivouac given the short approach and straightforward climb. Call in for a late-exit permit and you should be able to do it in a casual-day.<br />
<br />
Climb: In early June, when we climbed, there is sun on the wall until about 1100, which is unfortunate in 100 degree heat. If the temperatures are warm, I would definitely wait for the shade because the first three pitches go at 12a, 11d and 11b and there is some insecure friction climbing. We found that it made good sense to combine the following pitches with a 70m rope: 1+2, 5+6, 13+14. It might be possible to link more pitches, but there would likely be some extra drag and you'd want a bigger rack.<br />
<br />
Descent: This is how we rappelled using a single 70m rope. From the top of pitch 14, rappel climber's right to the top of pitch 12 (red dihedral). Knot your rope ends, I even joined them, because you need to pendulum hard to the right and nearly come off your rope ends. Follow independent stations rappelling down the face left of the red dihedral for three rappels until hitting the major ledge system at the top of pitch seven. Four or five more single rope rappels will bring you back to your packs.<br />
<br />
Rack: Single rack from #0 C3 to #2 C4 with a small rack of medium stoppers and larger rp's. A couple extra finger sized pieces might be used on a pitch or two, but not needed per se. Take about 8 draws, 4 runners and one 70m rope.Nate Farrhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01500209369684653499noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-32202812.post-618033356108630002013-05-03T21:54:00.002-07:002013-05-03T21:56:03.884-07:00We Were Warriors Once and Young?<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjG3tdvGHMpMaPTVJwdrmvUY6EpA3Q_X40lhX1fmZep0bPR5ILzWlKaAF2932f0bsF5tskmwNXVhJesu84QhRWSEGI1ZnLfOxjiXg6z8AEdO9mBuzxYF63DAsSpeoYh7cYfNqpz9A/s1600/rock+warrior.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="480" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjG3tdvGHMpMaPTVJwdrmvUY6EpA3Q_X40lhX1fmZep0bPR5ILzWlKaAF2932f0bsF5tskmwNXVhJesu84QhRWSEGI1ZnLfOxjiXg6z8AEdO9mBuzxYF63DAsSpeoYh7cYfNqpz9A/s640/rock+warrior.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Rock Warrior: Probably the first time I could be called that. I'm here just above the short 5.10 crux with 60ft ground fall potential Each pitch of this route was memorable (read 30+ft runouts). I can't deny the Adventure Punks had style...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: right; margin-left: 1em; text-align: right;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_d6grkc42b9bNe7SGUmyyXtaUu9tphyphenhyphenr491YhgTcED6t3qDsqLrDblAh7GZGbOnfVwcnDCTfcPzZk2UZOx9V4ozs3CIhpgR-tJEj98NrLjUPp2KHtEC6ayXwAObod0WMz0OCnMw/s1600/hfd98.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj_d6grkc42b9bNe7SGUmyyXtaUu9tphyphenhyphenr491YhgTcED6t3qDsqLrDblAh7GZGbOnfVwcnDCTfcPzZk2UZOx9V4ozs3CIhpgR-tJEj98NrLjUPp2KHtEC6ayXwAObod0WMz0OCnMw/s320/hfd98.jpg" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dreaming of Wild Turkeys.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Rodney and I finally connected for some Red Rocks climbing. <br />
<br />
Rodney has been hassling me for years to come down and explore the amazing climbing in RR. It took me moving next door to make the trip happen.<br />
<br />
Resolution Arete, in particular is the carrot that he has dangled to tempt me into the trip. We got the route done in a a casual (read: limited headlamps) day last week. I can't say the climbing was good and I'm not planning on a repeat ascent, but it was a true adventure. The climbing was pretty sustained at 5.10 despite what the topo states and the 10d pitch was exciting with the limited rack we carried.<br />
<br />
All-in-all this route went pretty well for us. We only lost a half-hour or so in the morning looking for the route, and maybe an additional hour looking for the descent. I (not so much Rodney) opted for a lightweight rack (taking just singles and few doubles in finger sizes. Considering there is exactly one piece of fixed gear on this route, a few extra cams would have sped things up. <br />
<br />
Resolution Arete is a full-on desert rock'aneering adventure. Even though I'm a novice to Red Rock, I don't think you've climbed at RR unless you've done this route.<br />
<br />
Here is a video I made of our ascent: <a href="https://vimeo.com/65202120">Resolution Arete Video.</a>Nate Farrhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01500209369684653499noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-32202812.post-67065581303576488352013-04-21T10:34:00.000-07:002013-04-21T10:34:03.599-07:00Stepping Off the Ground<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpj6-aKFMzzZbfuo31pixePId-Pn99VLIP_1oMHkIEXzLdgvuCmGXzcMqxeBUR9fGu7k4_csWlL-C9P1tvkqe-v1dofMC-3aqYzu6qM2YXaoL1y4j7Kv1wZ21dRtROkOdH5cn2CA/s1600/IMG_2128.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpj6-aKFMzzZbfuo31pixePId-Pn99VLIP_1oMHkIEXzLdgvuCmGXzcMqxeBUR9fGu7k4_csWlL-C9P1tvkqe-v1dofMC-3aqYzu6qM2YXaoL1y4j7Kv1wZ21dRtROkOdH5cn2CA/s320/IMG_2128.JPG" width="320" /></a></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
BJ and I connected over the past week to climb in his local crag, Zion. We had originally planned to head up Moonlight Buttress but learned through the grapevine that five permits were given to climber's all planning to climb that route on our chosen day.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Plan B: Touchstone Wall.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Though it lacks the aesthetic prow that MB takes, Touchstone has some pretty classic climbing. A couple of initial aid pitches reminded me how much I prefer free climbing to aid climbing. This point was driven home again as I tried to free climb 11- with etriers, jugs, daiseys, and static line hanging from my harness.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
We ended finishing the climb in a casual day and rapped the descent route. I would highly recommend the descent route vs. rappeling the route because it is very fast and straight-forward. It took us 1h15min from the top of the 5.7 sport pitch (pitch 9?) to climb the ridge and descent the descent gully. I'd expect it would take us almost twice as long to rappel the route proper. Additionally, given that this route is all enjoyable free-climbing after the second pitch, doing this route as a fix-and-fire would probably make the free climbing more enjoyable without all the extra aid gadgetry. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dwUhgbBE5KSd7f3AryuxLNpMsvLm2I63n4cWjCB8ifm4XGvslRzuWHqqJBI33-Iv173hsXunsZE12w' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div>
<br />Nate Farrhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01500209369684653499noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-32202812.post-35232828694190776612013-03-07T22:07:00.003-08:002013-03-07T22:07:52.695-08:00And Now For Something Completely Different...Life has drawn me away from the NW to the desert of Southern Nevada. I can't say that I could have planned it this way, but let's say I'm embracing the change. While in the NW, I was primarily focused on alpine climbs, manipulating my life to exploit narrow window of climbable weather and largely training for climbing. <br />
<br />
While my passion is still alpine climbing (of the ice and mixed variety), the new focal point of my climbing is going to be sunnier, dryer and considerably warmer. I have successfully avoided learning how to climb difficult rock climbs, as least by my standard, throughout my career through my constant pursuit of alpine and ice objectives. This unforeseen move to Las Vegas will hopefully fill in some blanks in my repertoire and hopefully translate into gains in the mountains and on ice or mixed. <br />
<br />
Change is hard. I'm already missing the ability to connect with my usual climbing partners and charge after windmills I'm sure I'll miss the winter routine of scouring NOAA for weather forecasts and, as strange as it may sound, the long drives to Montana, Wyoming and Alberta for ice trips.<br />
<br />
Breaking the routine may prove to be the impetus I need to overcome some of the hurdles I consistently face. A lot remains to be seen. At the very least I'm embracing this change. I'm resolved to develop my climbing in whatever ways I can from the Las Vegas area, even if that means I move away from traditional goals. It looks like I'll be trading ice axes and crampons this Spring for what I've always disdained as...<br />
<br />
...flip flops and bolts.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZu_uuZ1Xsa-DuGv4J7nG3JFx89hrr3vRGjSa-tdUEZ1sv5NVKOpRzwF7cjtVxQ8Q94soiq0aVeRyQlmj8bhq82TGsEd-TmLWu9lx9RNKk34H146rGCI2DrU18TQrbjj2NbUefSA/s1600/IMG_1891.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhZu_uuZ1Xsa-DuGv4J7nG3JFx89hrr3vRGjSa-tdUEZ1sv5NVKOpRzwF7cjtVxQ8Q94soiq0aVeRyQlmj8bhq82TGsEd-TmLWu9lx9RNKk34H146rGCI2DrU18TQrbjj2NbUefSA/s400/IMG_1891.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">You can't find this in the NW...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />Nate Farrhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01500209369684653499noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-32202812.post-86537579640269098002013-02-20T13:55:00.003-08:002013-02-20T13:59:56.285-08:00Reality Bites<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><div style="text-align: left;">
<br />
In what will surely be the final trip of this abbreviated and mediocre ice season, Marcus and I once again ventured north to the Canadian Rockies. We had an absolutely perfect forecast the morning we left. However, by that evening the avalanche danger had picked up and two of our three climbing days were predicted to have substantial snow. That's how it goes in the Rockies... Thankfully, even though snow augmented our plans, we still had decent temps and could get on more protected routes.<br />
<br />
Day one involved a run up Kitty Hawk and a recon of the Stanley Headwall for an attempt the following day. Personally, I never considered the routes on the SH as possible objectives (other than Nemesis or Suffer Machine which are moderate by comparison). Actually getting up near the routes and sussing them out in my head really opened up some doors and I'm ready to step through them.... but not until avy conditions stabilize. We encountered a scary snow pack, turned tail and ran home. <br />
<br />
The previous day we watched a couple Quebecois climbers on FR. I can only assume they packed along a couple sets of brass balls on their rack to even contemplate that approach with current snow conditions... yikes. In a completely unsurprising move, we ended up at Haffner and Marcus ticked Fight Club which he had been quite close to sending for a while. <br />
<br />
The final day ended up being quite snowy but we managed to push the Subaru into the ghost for some low hanging fruit in the Valley of the Birds. I can't say I will ever plan to go to the VOTB again, but with the 10-minute walk, its more than likely I will end up there at some point. FWIW the mixed routes at the Bird Cage are not worthy...<br />
<br />
Here's to a short season. I can't say I climbed anything that great or even much of anything at all. It was at times disappointing and frustrating and at others rewarding to get on some rare-formers. At the very least I ended the season already excited for the next year... so how bad could it be?</div>
</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjW4tyTJSvAe9XlV_N0BIKmCebdFAuCjQwhzX42aiY25JIrCu301ltkE61cWT7ZXGjXLU9pc6jFxjC7HYseAjkx_BPbfM2JAQsTP_3zakCfShEA_32x25hMWdSA_eNSwQYbWZdqFw/s1600/IMG_1860.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjW4tyTJSvAe9XlV_N0BIKmCebdFAuCjQwhzX42aiY25JIrCu301ltkE61cWT7ZXGjXLU9pc6jFxjC7HYseAjkx_BPbfM2JAQsTP_3zakCfShEA_32x25hMWdSA_eNSwQYbWZdqFw/s400/IMG_1860.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Thankfully <i>Kitty Hawk </i>is NOT where Marcus was first to fly...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8DOb-dzZ5FpyuY72sAYzuGPmjREr-D5r09Qm5dpYWUQlrNqFPjk7ZEIieMlaMHZq6Il6-sAHn48MbqvUItp-qfe7TB18wy-_EP0whZ0AVFLtq8judXEieed8M1nGeFKRbeVgwCQ/s1600/IMG_1862.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8DOb-dzZ5FpyuY72sAYzuGPmjREr-D5r09Qm5dpYWUQlrNqFPjk7ZEIieMlaMHZq6Il6-sAHn48MbqvUItp-qfe7TB18wy-_EP0whZ0AVFLtq8judXEieed8M1nGeFKRbeVgwCQ/s400/IMG_1862.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Stanley Headwall with French Reality on R</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />Nate Farrhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01500209369684653499noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-32202812.post-91211274690141613382013-02-01T16:40:00.003-08:002013-02-01T17:20:06.737-08:00Every Dog Has Its Day<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
Had a quick trip to, ahem, Washington, for some ice climbing this week. I think we nabbed the end of the good conditions (and I use that term loosely) having good days at Dog Dome in Leavenworth and at Banks Lake. Overall conditions were fairly bleak. Though there were some rarely formed climbs in, they were probably tougher than they would be in a good year. Regardless we had fun and climbed several pitches each day. It was certainly nice to not need to venture so far afield to go climbing...</div>
<div class="" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwvbxoIM0thQJ7mTmxOFZ1r7OkKLqv6dUoOLQl-q1JUpgBBWWNYJL3mNH19a0UgKKxoqL_IOagultinA1k8K5Eqj99nqN2IFoCo4oLIPyRnX0L1jcdQ5c1FjlHet3aIV5WIZOokQ/s1600/DSCN0831.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjwvbxoIM0thQJ7mTmxOFZ1r7OkKLqv6dUoOLQl-q1JUpgBBWWNYJL3mNH19a0UgKKxoqL_IOagultinA1k8K5Eqj99nqN2IFoCo4oLIPyRnX0L1jcdQ5c1FjlHet3aIV5WIZOokQ/s400/DSCN0831.JPG" width="300" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4q03AacUaAvHR9tDrdxcCTAEEVUz7dsnhD3kFynFd2C429b34UYAZtJwtSP9Ez6Mvc8QDrKmycUBfxXBv4EuQBPFDsvK_diXyE65viDlDmXVHs-qkoP5HGWZL6ZONzOJj4vqd3A/s1600/DSCN0832.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi4q03AacUaAvHR9tDrdxcCTAEEVUz7dsnhD3kFynFd2C429b34UYAZtJwtSP9Ez6Mvc8QDrKmycUBfxXBv4EuQBPFDsvK_diXyE65viDlDmXVHs-qkoP5HGWZL6ZONzOJj4vqd3A/s400/DSCN0832.JPG" width="300" /></a></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
Nate Farrhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01500209369684653499noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-32202812.post-51316004556844962142013-01-22T13:23:00.000-08:002013-01-22T18:30:07.943-08:00Doing the same thing, expecting different results<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhp2IQYJ8vfp74VQOzsywmFSy9DtsaQ_q-ozwZWsQCM1NCh-2msR6GK8_rHKBMSJ-oz8enXs1cNd-7UdPo9jox_2Iljy6Co_8lKijfUxJKVjM0RWtHKO5FJ2KamBDKt4flGmAe2A/s1600/DSCN0479.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhp2IQYJ8vfp74VQOzsywmFSy9DtsaQ_q-ozwZWsQCM1NCh-2msR6GK8_rHKBMSJ-oz8enXs1cNd-7UdPo9jox_2Iljy6Co_8lKijfUxJKVjM0RWtHKO5FJ2KamBDKt4flGmAe2A/s400/DSCN0479.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Haffner: The Perpetual Checkdown Day.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpAWVr5eX_s7X3Sv6P9stflpbebNNnpeJk4ohHGoWaxe5NtT5geJRenlJzGQq8A1HNFlskJwb_Pr57m-DsGgY_X0oAmuE__A5QBzSSyNQcuOOlTS8PNj-HqpHyR7KCnge0x3KzMA/s1600/DSCN0923.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpAWVr5eX_s7X3Sv6P9stflpbebNNnpeJk4ohHGoWaxe5NtT5geJRenlJzGQq8A1HNFlskJwb_Pr57m-DsGgY_X0oAmuE__A5QBzSSyNQcuOOlTS8PNj-HqpHyR7KCnge0x3KzMA/s400/DSCN0923.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Easy cragging...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<br />
<div class="MsoNormal">
I am part-way into an abbreviated ice season with an already
diminutive amount of quality climbing. Over
the past two seasons I’ve climbed four quality ice routes: Unholy Baptism, Redman Soars, Mean Green and
Goatsbeard. In the alpine realm it is a wash
with a few quality local ascents and one solid trip to Alaska balanced against
a lot of waiting, taking the tools for a walk and one lousy trip to Alaska. I’m climbing the same grades on rock today as
I did three-years ago.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
After doing a cost-benefit analysis, it just doesn’t add
up. I’ve invested untold amounts of
time, effort and money over the past three-years but haven’t seen the
benefits. That being said, I have had a
lot of fun days repeating routes, mixed climbing, cragging or alpine climbing on
easily tackled objectives. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I’ll admit it; climbing isn’t just about having fun for
me. For me a big part of climbing is
pushing perceived boundaries, working toward goals and doing things that I
previously thought impossible. There are
easier ways to have fun than climbing which often, is at best, only fun after
the fact. Though I suppose diminishing
returns should be expected, the balance is in the red. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I’m sure I’m to blame.
</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
I haven’t changed my modus operandi in years though I haven’t
progressed in essentially any facet of my climbing in the same period. I climb the same rock, ice and mixed grades
as I did a couple years ago and I’ve made no changes. I convinced myself that people who were
progressing or were having more successful days in the alpine were just lucky
or in a better position. Either may have
been true at times but still I did nothing to change my station. I have fallen into a rut and somehow I had convinced myself
that I could keep doing the same things and expect different results. </div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
People make difficult choices all the time and those
regarding climbing amount to the easiest among these decisions. I’ve made choices that have pointed me away
from maximizing climbing and I don’t regret them. The dilemma is not about regretting the life
decisions I’ve made. The problem is that
I have failed to allocate the time and effort I have available toward climbing
in a way which is gratifying and reinforces what I love about this sport.</div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<br /></div>
<span style="font-family: "Times New Roman","serif"; font-size: 12.0pt; mso-ansi-language: EN-US; mso-bidi-language: AR-SA; mso-fareast-font-family: Calibri; mso-fareast-language: EN-US; mso-fareast-theme-font: minor-latin;">I’m breaking the cycle this year and I’m going
to try something different. I am
refusing to take the consistent check down days and I am going to work harder
to ensure I have higher percentage alpine days even if that means fewer days in
the alpine and more at the crags. I need
movement and challenge somewhere even if that means climbing fewer days or
climbing more rock and less ice (or visa versa). I need movement and change. At the very least I need different results
wherever they take me…</span><br />
<br />Nate Farrhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01500209369684653499noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-32202812.post-759214395910671162013-01-17T09:09:00.000-08:002013-01-22T07:32:20.751-08:00Hunting GoatThis past week is possibly the first time that the route Goatsbeard in Mazama, WA formed as a complete ice climb. The first ascent involved rock climbing and direct aid to reach the start of a partially formed pillar on the second pitch. Needless to say it was in more favorable condition this week with mostly fat, soft ice. <br />
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Rumor has it that Goatsbeard may have received a second and aid-less ascent somewhere in the interim between the first ascent and last weekend when its first repeat was claimed. That party also claimed it to be the longest continuous waterfall ice in North America at 420m. We climbed the route in five pitches with a 70m rope. I might be rusty and perhaps I forgot to carry a zero but that doesn't seem to add up to anymore than 350m. After climbing four rope-stretching pitches and one 50m pitch we estimate Goatsbeard's length as approximately 320m (given its wandering nature and use of the rope in anchors). </div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Regardless, there is no prize for second place (or fifth or sixth in our case) and there are much longer climbs but not in Washington. While it is one of the better climbs at the grade and length that I've climbed what makes it unique is because its local and elusive. I feel pretty lucky to be on one of the half dozen or so teams that have completed this route.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcKHHvIEBw54sx7E98aIqGTLR3sV4a5IqqsyNSFAaxMuQQZ1nix16QU5CYOqM4iIb19nZdCR5rq175EqXu4q_-limlUHYQNXrv0aLVhOf53FC56nzrEcL9TW-gNcHR4UMaSNfI7w/s1600/IMG_1817.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgcKHHvIEBw54sx7E98aIqGTLR3sV4a5IqqsyNSFAaxMuQQZ1nix16QU5CYOqM4iIb19nZdCR5rq175EqXu4q_-limlUHYQNXrv0aLVhOf53FC56nzrEcL9TW-gNcHR4UMaSNfI7w/s320/IMG_1817.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Blake getting ready to "bring the psyche" at the base.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1kZG5tFxTZPtZd49NPCnzkqmIQQlM_PNVxgJZBrxazi13n80mXULJvVsjzbPqRgviwm1yRlIS42HlId1sbVQK9sFGESZ2uHo3dgbuifuZcDfkjf3uahLT-I1ku9WHhOGlUVEdSA/s1600/IMG_1819.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1kZG5tFxTZPtZd49NPCnzkqmIQQlM_PNVxgJZBrxazi13n80mXULJvVsjzbPqRgviwm1yRlIS42HlId1sbVQK9sFGESZ2uHo3dgbuifuZcDfkjf3uahLT-I1ku9WHhOGlUVEdSA/s320/IMG_1819.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looking down the first pitch at a cave on left side of first crux pillar.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7X5af1GVnlRLAmLYLChK6QC9uyGw-VsaUpbqsVQGsKX9Y7kucteIkVA9Ti7OTLdeXN5cQwYaSVhSz6XBhPwxZmqzPfPBMzzZBwZ42QfrZqhjutJWSOcYht6SpMPfsbQ4gduXyTw/s1600/IMG_1821.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj7X5af1GVnlRLAmLYLChK6QC9uyGw-VsaUpbqsVQGsKX9Y7kucteIkVA9Ti7OTLdeXN5cQwYaSVhSz6XBhPwxZmqzPfPBMzzZBwZ42QfrZqhjutJWSOcYht6SpMPfsbQ4gduXyTw/s320/IMG_1821.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Blake leading out on the third pitch.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWXiJ48uC-W_HpAkjjoiMOL5PZUZ791EEdxL3pCxVAWoAuTtdP5_htmrRnHWBybECYK3as6mGqZJebveEmJ7hyphenhyphen-luRmCF4KBQmqMNRumPUSi70Jh63iyST9EXTc4ANKrkT7iYUjw/s1600/IMG_1827.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgWXiJ48uC-W_HpAkjjoiMOL5PZUZ791EEdxL3pCxVAWoAuTtdP5_htmrRnHWBybECYK3as6mGqZJebveEmJ7hyphenhyphen-luRmCF4KBQmqMNRumPUSi70Jh63iyST9EXTc4ANKrkT7iYUjw/s320/IMG_1827.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"Crushing mind demons" on the last pitch.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyO4-2_He4H4Ityi1snY4tTRwDvirJqeoc4l0d2My8ahBK_7JFGfez6aMGG2Uv1lS6HsLjb0bld68hyCwsnmwqIHk2_oNS4dXd4GOevRK2S4qChwaMEUrg6MPp-mLQMdJAzJhLLw/s1600/IMG_1837.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyO4-2_He4H4Ityi1snY4tTRwDvirJqeoc4l0d2My8ahBK_7JFGfez6aMGG2Uv1lS6HsLjb0bld68hyCwsnmwqIHk2_oNS4dXd4GOevRK2S4qChwaMEUrg6MPp-mLQMdJAzJhLLw/s320/IMG_1837.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Follow ice to trees, go back down the same way.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
The climb as we did it:</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
P1 70m to a belay cave on left of crux pillar. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
P2 50m to a rock belay on large snowfield to right of climb. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
P3 70m to snowfield and belay in alcove on the right. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
P4 70m to a cave belay to the left. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
P5 70m to the trees.</div>
Nate Farrhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01500209369684653499noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-32202812.post-52374436107000778982012-09-18T02:57:00.004-07:002012-09-18T02:57:45.456-07:00The First Day of School<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Colin and I had our first day of big wall school as it were on the University Wall in Squamish. In addition to being our introduction to wall climbing systems, it was also my vertical bachelor party. Thus, we took along some excess weight mostly in the form of beer. We learned a lot about how to rig a haul, haul the pig, set up and live on ledge.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
More than anything I learned that I like free climbing a lot more. Don't get me wrong, I completely look forward to spending some time on El Capitan climbing routes that largely go free with long sections of aid or even some of the easier aid routes. However, considering that I already don't have enough time to climb, I'm not convinced that I want to spend any of it learning to hang from increasingly sparser and poorer protection. That being said I do enjoy that aid climbing puts you in amazing positions and with all the luxuries and comfort of the ground. It's quasi-vertical camping.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiA0O9wenx3XW6MbS4P1EEqV1kvYheJhtBC_eR8E4oUyRLiSG0Y9iQOyEKsH0TqkVYhC49qM-pDKqi7l1rALTGpz4rVcd2uRCzhMHx_jU5gzAP0ck8iV_LVkHYKv55t4EKJAlrnng/s1600/IMG_0945.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiA0O9wenx3XW6MbS4P1EEqV1kvYheJhtBC_eR8E4oUyRLiSG0Y9iQOyEKsH0TqkVYhC49qM-pDKqi7l1rALTGpz4rVcd2uRCzhMHx_jU5gzAP0ck8iV_LVkHYKv55t4EKJAlrnng/s400/IMG_0945.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Slab-hauling to the base of the U-Wall</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEf8hMHsnR7FeCbACqFfOLBP1eAgEBddCYFD1dlw78g3WAxQsEum2MKdF0pet0hyRj6a4i592Hb3kbg9jVLbagVeMsbAf9JyyJkwSHzquYVxnzU0rdZIiZORNON7vWegsg3FjuPg/s1600/IMG_0949.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEf8hMHsnR7FeCbACqFfOLBP1eAgEBddCYFD1dlw78g3WAxQsEum2MKdF0pet0hyRj6a4i592Hb3kbg9jVLbagVeMsbAf9JyyJkwSHzquYVxnzU0rdZIiZORNON7vWegsg3FjuPg/s400/IMG_0949.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Colin cleaning the first pitch... looks like a better free pitch than aid!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVyWS8fiHRD_J97YV3fzmwPsm6CfKcUkEall1UA0SUWkDL5ItiNCArlzM3FwiXe_vNKkG6KcRTFFKvhREbc6z30aorJNIrIW-CKQMSVktximVOQV5InCsRmNWSIX-6qrK745o1Yg/s1600/IMG_0964.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjVyWS8fiHRD_J97YV3fzmwPsm6CfKcUkEall1UA0SUWkDL5ItiNCArlzM3FwiXe_vNKkG6KcRTFFKvhREbc6z30aorJNIrIW-CKQMSVktximVOQV5InCsRmNWSIX-6qrK745o1Yg/s400/IMG_0964.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">You can tell you're new at wallin' when you take a picture of easy hook placements....</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieHQb2l32_zGQOZIEwc6ZD6iEAR3x9Sqa8OzquLm_AaDlms06CCQE7NILvziDQWLtSaxArtgfSTERvc9mn-_0o0bu4cNBv06ATy6S7Y4DWJaGqZs3uwa6LWi3INXiiA0SBUQgtwA/s1600/IMG_0966.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieHQb2l32_zGQOZIEwc6ZD6iEAR3x9Sqa8OzquLm_AaDlms06CCQE7NILvziDQWLtSaxArtgfSTERvc9mn-_0o0bu4cNBv06ATy6S7Y4DWJaGqZs3uwa6LWi3INXiiA0SBUQgtwA/s400/IMG_0966.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Big Wall cuisine</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<object width="320" height="266" class="BLOGGER-picasa-video" classid="clsid:D27CDB6E-AE6D-11cf-96B8-444553540000" codebase="http://download.macromedia.com/pub/shockwave/cabs/flash/swflash.cab#version=6,0,40,0" data-thumbnail-src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAilz0vbDK-V9BJtPiQl8EWuoUXdmPRH_CV3-mDE-LhRoGJDsjCH9LAlb0tgTTHd9EoSXeq-kn1gckx6vzONPXRApX2r21jnB45C3kCyyUwy_EKLhvJxM0HhXoTKeV988UXHhDYw/s1600/MVI_0946.MOV"><param name="movie" value="http://video.google.com/googleplayer.swf?videoUrl=http%3A%2F%2Fredirector.googlevideo.com%2Fvideoplayback%3Fid%3D1c3d5c411e4c4a32%26itag%3D18%26source%3Dpicasa%26cmo%3Dsensitive_content%253Dyes%26ip%3D0.0.0.0%26ipbits%3D0%26expire%3D1350548173%26sparams%3Did%2Citag%2Csource%2Cip%2Cipbits%2Cexpire%26signature%3D66E2CC07C1D543088F28730DCEC0C531B0B6A0C5.51A387C09D9B079EAAE4DDEC9A5C77F1461436B5%26key%3Dlh1" /><param name="bgcolor" value="#FFFFFF" /><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true" /><embed width="320" height="266" src="http://video.google.com/googleplayer.swf?videoUrl=http%3A%2F%2Fredirector.googlevideo.com%2Fvideoplayback%3Fid%3D1c3d5c411e4c4a32%26itag%3D18%26source%3Dpicasa%26cmo%3Dsensitive_content%253Dyes%26ip%3D0.0.0.0%26ipbits%3D0%26expire%3D1350548173%26sparams%3Did%2Citag%2Csource%2Cip%2Cipbits%2Cexpire%26signature%3D66E2CC07C1D543088F28730DCEC0C531B0B6A0C5.51A387C09D9B079EAAE4DDEC9A5C77F1461436B5%26key%3Dlh1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true"></embed></object></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<object width="320" height="266" class="BLOGGER-picasa-video" classid="clsid:D27CDB6E-AE6D-11cf-96B8-444553540000" codebase="http://download.macromedia.com/pub/shockwave/cabs/flash/swflash.cab#version=6,0,40,0" data-thumbnail-src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGBt7YSNWmJHZQ8-a6mki9bgK77J1ixCGGlSomoedXgRjhGfoIaUzdXdVNw3usIQiW_ehv4nOvJz_oczNuNxJJSPw0WFKFKBS-B09fKr2sHHhvnfrSO_6LyXtREomatL_ds8g8xQ/s1600/MVI_0954.MOV"><param name="movie" value="http://video.google.com/googleplayer.swf?videoUrl=http%3A%2F%2Fredirector.googlevideo.com%2Fvideoplayback%3Fid%3Daa3de47806a46177%26itag%3D18%26source%3Dpicasa%26cmo%3Dsensitive_content%253Dyes%26ip%3D0.0.0.0%26ipbits%3D0%26expire%3D1350549526%26sparams%3Did%2Citag%2Csource%2Cip%2Cipbits%2Cexpire%26signature%3D66B7306E1DD683CA962D9CFABB713F7D36FCA137.4890476AD63595E7A10D896287B1C2949C29196F%26key%3Dlh1" /><param name="bgcolor" value="#FFFFFF" /><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true" /><embed width="320" height="266" src="http://video.google.com/googleplayer.swf?videoUrl=http%3A%2F%2Fredirector.googlevideo.com%2Fvideoplayback%3Fid%3Daa3de47806a46177%26itag%3D18%26source%3Dpicasa%26cmo%3Dsensitive_content%253Dyes%26ip%3D0.0.0.0%26ipbits%3D0%26expire%3D1350549526%26sparams%3Did%2Citag%2Csource%2Cip%2Cipbits%2Cexpire%26signature%3D66B7306E1DD683CA962D9CFABB713F7D36FCA137.4890476AD63595E7A10D896287B1C2949C29196F%26key%3Dlh1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true"></embed></object></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<object width="320" height="266" class="BLOGGER-picasa-video" classid="clsid:D27CDB6E-AE6D-11cf-96B8-444553540000" codebase="http://download.macromedia.com/pub/shockwave/cabs/flash/swflash.cab#version=6,0,40,0" data-thumbnail-src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0vR6XODQrMvsgz6o3ATMaCUokw42wfxrSimPzgvbuqo3DWXD8_aU9VV4dXsgxMjX8e13dSjPONc488o1M8qLSGIgcOm1QLO4E4iCo9e6EYs4Qc36-2y_sM-bvpWsPZ_LRidxlVA/s1600/MVI_0957.MOV"><param name="movie" value="http://video.google.com/googleplayer.swf?videoUrl=http%3A%2F%2Fredirector.googlevideo.com%2Fvideoplayback%3Fid%3Da0de7a7cea987faf%26itag%3D18%26source%3Dpicasa%26cmo%3Dsensitive_content%253Dyes%26ip%3D0.0.0.0%26ipbits%3D0%26expire%3D1350549886%26sparams%3Did%2Citag%2Csource%2Cip%2Cipbits%2Cexpire%26signature%3D2B5B068C01E81174E537B315EBA01D42BEB0A22D.1588F846BD0665430E3280A9DC3BC25C672470AB%26key%3Dlh1" /><param name="bgcolor" value="#FFFFFF" /><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true" /><embed width="320" height="266" src="http://video.google.com/googleplayer.swf?videoUrl=http%3A%2F%2Fredirector.googlevideo.com%2Fvideoplayback%3Fid%3Da0de7a7cea987faf%26itag%3D18%26source%3Dpicasa%26cmo%3Dsensitive_content%253Dyes%26ip%3D0.0.0.0%26ipbits%3D0%26expire%3D1350549886%26sparams%3Did%2Citag%2Csource%2Cip%2Cipbits%2Cexpire%26signature%3D2B5B068C01E81174E537B315EBA01D42BEB0A22D.1588F846BD0665430E3280A9DC3BC25C672470AB%26key%3Dlh1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true"></embed></object></div>
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<object width="320" height="266" class="BLOGGER-picasa-video" classid="clsid:D27CDB6E-AE6D-11cf-96B8-444553540000" codebase="http://download.macromedia.com/pub/shockwave/cabs/flash/swflash.cab#version=6,0,40,0" data-thumbnail-src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhdck6rDPi5ZfFbJTNkcoMFWFiz5_9JupIikJCHtYaiMhJtEPvy6o90AAc2Tuhd7aFOAjYvNt4nXLRMrevbP9XgT87EN2b-pBxWMPB8bTpG6WRpBe5kqRYBYxTnRoxG1cq6C0CjIQ/s1600/MVI_0969.MOV"><param name="movie" value="http://video.google.com/googleplayer.swf?videoUrl=http%3A%2F%2Fredirector.googlevideo.com%2Fvideoplayback%3Fid%3D77ee5f2b6e9a5f04%26itag%3D18%26source%3Dpicasa%26cmo%3Dsensitive_content%253Dyes%26ip%3D0.0.0.0%26ipbits%3D0%26expire%3D1350550729%26sparams%3Did%2Citag%2Csource%2Cip%2Cipbits%2Cexpire%26signature%3D89C0027D76B71ACB6DDF9A6D326411233B8906BE.A5EC1CD9521EC4C9E582A3D817F62E1F0C16392E%26key%3Dlh1" /><param name="bgcolor" value="#FFFFFF" /><param name="allowFullScreen" value="true" /><embed width="320" height="266" src="http://video.google.com/googleplayer.swf?videoUrl=http%3A%2F%2Fredirector.googlevideo.com%2Fvideoplayback%3Fid%3D77ee5f2b6e9a5f04%26itag%3D18%26source%3Dpicasa%26cmo%3Dsensitive_content%253Dyes%26ip%3D0.0.0.0%26ipbits%3D0%26expire%3D1350550729%26sparams%3Did%2Citag%2Csource%2Cip%2Cipbits%2Cexpire%26signature%3D89C0027D76B71ACB6DDF9A6D326411233B8906BE.A5EC1CD9521EC4C9E582A3D817F62E1F0C16392E%26key%3Dlh1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowfullscreen="true"></embed></object></div>
Nate Farrhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01500209369684653499noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-32202812.post-73392208757288938032012-09-05T06:17:00.000-07:002012-09-05T06:17:02.962-07:00Lessons From History<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEu_ZXz3FgjE6eauz6R8hfXvxK_UzVFQAl6BjUWanuIo9OPk4OXqSCmc5aDBUpzJXw5j-OnohyphenhyphenB_KU2CJzoef5i11VISBITam84ZcU0_eFdGLt5myMg8f8IUrRDzeiXC4IOKoQww/s1600/P8020044.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEu_ZXz3FgjE6eauz6R8hfXvxK_UzVFQAl6BjUWanuIo9OPk4OXqSCmc5aDBUpzJXw5j-OnohyphenhyphenB_KU2CJzoef5i11VISBITam84ZcU0_eFdGLt5myMg8f8IUrRDzeiXC4IOKoQww/s320/P8020044.JPG" width="240" /></a></div>
<br />
After repeating the Beckey-Chouinard on South Howser Tower I spent some time looking through pictures of my original ascent. I'm struck by this picture from my original ascent which was taken at the base as we changed into rock shoes. Specifically, I'm amazed by how big this pack is (35L and filled to the brim). What could I possibly have taken? More specifically, what should I have left out? To answer this question I'm going to compare and contrast the two ascents packing list.<br />
<br />
2005: Full shank climbing boots, ice axe, crampon (half set), camelback, food, rain pants and jacket, puffy jacket, soft shell jacket.<br />
2012: Approach shoes, ice axe, crampon (half set), camelback, food, rain pants and jacket, puffy jacket, windbreaker, sil tarp or sleeping bag.<br />
<br />
Looking about the packing lists, is I actually brought MORE gear on the second ascent but somehow brought a pack only half the size. <br />
<br />
I'm sure most of us have passed somebody on the trail with a massive pack for a short trip and thought "What did they pack?" Here's my theory: It's not the necessary items that make the difference its all the non-essentials that alter pack weight and size. The massive caveat being that doing without a "necessary" item will obviously make a difference. For example I brought approach shoes instead of boots which saved space and weight, and worked given the conditions. Also, we could have done without the sleeping bag and sil-tarp for our planned bivy but would have frozen in the predicted rain.<br />
<br />
For a 1-1.5 day climb, aside from basic clothing and whatever gear you're forced to carry over, how much junk could you possibly need? You'll need a couple liters of water (plan on being dehydrated by the end), about 8-10 bars, headlamp, gloves and hat if its ends up being colder than anticipated, blue bag for mid-route deuce, 20 feet of rap tat and that's about it. I would advocate for leaving the ten-essentials at the base and only taking what is needed for upward and downward progress and survival for the interim between the two. Streamline your packing by taking care of tasks ahead of time. Instead of bringing sunscreen make sure to lather up in the morning and leave it in camp. Forget the extra batteries, make sure to put a fresh set in before every big climb. In fact forget anything for which "extra" is written down on the packing list.<br />
<br />
A good objective is use everything that you bring on a route and when you get down to the base and say you've done that, then you know you packed well.Nate Farrhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01500209369684653499noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-32202812.post-83183756839895001562012-08-25T16:12:00.005-07:002012-08-25T17:19:29.792-07:00Onsite Rappeling in the Bugaboos<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
With Rob in from Chicago for just over a week, we knew that we had a narrow window to work with. Typical weather in the Bugaboos leaves something to be desired. Thankfully for us, Rob's airline itinerary coincided with the 48 hours of good weather needed to get us into the range, on to- and off-of a big route with only a short dousing. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Though, I'd climbed the Beckey-Chouinard years previously I have always wanted to return in part because its an amazing route and also because, at the time, the route had pushed me to my limit and our "in-a-day" ascent became a 26 hour suffer-fest. Rob and I wanted to improve on that experience by going faster, lighter and climbing in better style.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
We planned for another single day push, but clouds rolled in during the night causing us to rethink our plan and hit the snooze button. Unfortunately (fortunately?) the dawn broke clear and we decided to saunter over to East Creek, bivy and climb the next day after some predicted evening rain. In the end, our desire to climb trumped our desire for comfort and we headed out just after midday with small packs, a down sleeping bag and a sil-tarp. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
After making great time in the waning daylight, we turned our headlamps on at the final pitch and made it to the summit an hour or two later. Unfortunately on the rappel we blew the onsite and were unable to find the descent route that night. For future descensionists the first rappel goes skier's right!</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
We tossed down the ropes, pulled out the sleeping bag and settled in for a few hours until first light illuminated the descent and we made our escape. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Despite having to bivy for a few hours, I'm pretty happy with our style on this route as we expected to bivouac having started so late in the day. Additionally the weather held out just long enough that we only got rained on during the walk back to the route's base and our packs. Being on the receiving end of weather induced failure, it was satisfying to watch several parties rap the route that day in the rain knowing that we had just capitalized on the narrow weather window.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh35kJ_8qloltwIYRgOl59FoDsazNXbabCexbDKgVT5vboIog36UIW-3vLZIG5_ORHO_FNMoPu29ScbbtFnqphe4Y4QywnIcJk5SBGAXEzFDjbCYfEqE79S91S2cDZ4FowUMQ3pSA/s1600/IMG_1654.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh35kJ_8qloltwIYRgOl59FoDsazNXbabCexbDKgVT5vboIog36UIW-3vLZIG5_ORHO_FNMoPu29ScbbtFnqphe4Y4QywnIcJk5SBGAXEzFDjbCYfEqE79S91S2cDZ4FowUMQ3pSA/s320/IMG_1654.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Beckey-Chouinard</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_m9opCw6SXxFQqTepaSWQEgEV59voBQXi4gHZ3BOnxsyDeW4qQqWnV0AEmq3jdgjUVC-fOEaA-TCeJ2mF6S0FRSUa7HB8AK2ZIpTF2XVcwjaIy4RNuHPMfvcWpCX75hhLxMHR5w/s1600/IMG_1670.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_m9opCw6SXxFQqTepaSWQEgEV59voBQXi4gHZ3BOnxsyDeW4qQqWnV0AEmq3jdgjUVC-fOEaA-TCeJ2mF6S0FRSUa7HB8AK2ZIpTF2XVcwjaIy4RNuHPMfvcWpCX75hhLxMHR5w/s320/IMG_1670.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Beautiful 5.9 corner mid-route</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdKct-P00878KiEeZ_rTA0btLGvA2Q6sVp4UEVAsr3t3h3Wg4AN95iPFBMhvdn9fqAnAjhwJnA9ISZ3j8bpI1DBF4yIxNU33CZkXIOqn30NCYxMWhi39tmU9Pyz9xj4yN8tgGg7Q/s1600/IMG_0878.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdKct-P00878KiEeZ_rTA0btLGvA2Q6sVp4UEVAsr3t3h3Wg4AN95iPFBMhvdn9fqAnAjhwJnA9ISZ3j8bpI1DBF4yIxNU33CZkXIOqn30NCYxMWhi39tmU9Pyz9xj4yN8tgGg7Q/s320/IMG_0878.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rob following before the ledges at about half-height</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<iframe allowfullscreen='allowfullscreen' webkitallowfullscreen='webkitallowfullscreen' mozallowfullscreen='mozallowfullscreen' width='320' height='266' src='https://www.blogger.com/video.g?token=AD6v5dydddozsqKdWbz2v1SwsHckKWloH1d6OdJgk96oaD6thEHkfGxsIOSvLJeJRjvr5oQ3i1zXJFNbRdg' class='b-hbp-video b-uploaded' frameborder='0'></iframe></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfsYhrpBxhuuPfrLKL05TtDLuBnNoc2YfYuYWS8thKrh5xUhmgZM0VC3wcqOrETYohwmsHakOFugYBUJo_zj0Zp0JBNma2vEsv-zfHxvbxlVWa4TUDEke9DSTqj3jTh7peHKRF9A/s1600/IMG_0889.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgfsYhrpBxhuuPfrLKL05TtDLuBnNoc2YfYuYWS8thKrh5xUhmgZM0VC3wcqOrETYohwmsHakOFugYBUJo_zj0Zp0JBNma2vEsv-zfHxvbxlVWa4TUDEke9DSTqj3jTh7peHKRF9A/s320/IMG_0889.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The fatigue setting in...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhK_iztaCY-51-FDB7Z8DOID6lsx__2Mi6Wm1oJX5tN-eLhrkmCNTWyF2U6MXYEbwUTgYq_A8PB7D-G2SJDWLbQXyXFH6p67KGBt9opRm5_Hffn_hILcqt7VW8VwRig0Z9mHtqt5w/s320/IMG_0893.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="240" /></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rob showing his respect to Scotland</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhK_iztaCY-51-FDB7Z8DOID6lsx__2Mi6Wm1oJX5tN-eLhrkmCNTWyF2U6MXYEbwUTgYq_A8PB7D-G2SJDWLbQXyXFH6p67KGBt9opRm5_Hffn_hILcqt7VW8VwRig0Z9mHtqt5w/s1600/IMG_0893.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"></a></div>
<br /></div>
Nate Farrhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01500209369684653499noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-32202812.post-60956691826095916492012-07-24T07:43:00.002-07:002012-07-26T03:51:05.544-07:00COG (Climb of Girth)Until recently I have been unaware of the latest entry into the climber's vernacular: MOG. For those of you not learned in climber speak, a MOG is a man of girth... we'll apparently this last weekend was a COG (climb of girth). Colin and I teamed up for the Girth Pillar and had a great if not adventurous time. We made good time throughout our climb even considering the two pairs of boots, axes and crampons that the follower was force to carry.<br />There isn't any section on this route that is amazing but the entire package makes it worth climbing. Many (most?) people seem to approach via the N Ridge bypass which makes it a considerably shorter climb and easier due to lack of ice climbing terrain and required gear. I'm glad we climbed it via the Ice Cliff Glacier but it was a lot of work. We encountered three pitches on the Ice Cliff that we felt were belay worthy, but if you had two tools you likely would just solo through (but then you have to carry two tools).<br />Our excitement factor was multiplied by a surprisingly active Ice Cliff Glacier and a rock fall incident that destroyed one backpack and put two core shots in our lead line. Misadventures aside we rallied and finished the climb in good time and were still friends at the end of the story.<br />
<span style="background-color: white;"><br /></span><br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgU2HkWhH5yy2JKas6mbQTJNd2_24HtZBLEw4trbpwaVfn_-Ln12f1jpBWt8a1l_yPazFlSeEd-D6ycQ5jdT40scZ0mS38UQ5c_C6koPP5etiEr_zyC0sGPC0N3N0G-SYjFzuV3tg/s1600/20120722-P7220014.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgU2HkWhH5yy2JKas6mbQTJNd2_24HtZBLEw4trbpwaVfn_-Ln12f1jpBWt8a1l_yPazFlSeEd-D6ycQ5jdT40scZ0mS38UQ5c_C6koPP5etiEr_zyC0sGPC0N3N0G-SYjFzuV3tg/s400/20120722-P7220014.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Climbing down low on the L to R leading ramp to the Girth Pillar</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRQ_QT76j-wpvZ-zWNQJj1yHIcT2voT1JOUYgZN52-KBoCAec09p0k9oXvF2pcwS_LkE8mwleu2B_BBjkIqUPaQPu-zgb9qyj39BBnpPHSwQyMnK45tBLyXFepNaFzeUI02NwlJA/s1600/IMG_0822.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRQ_QT76j-wpvZ-zWNQJj1yHIcT2voT1JOUYgZN52-KBoCAec09p0k9oXvF2pcwS_LkE8mwleu2B_BBjkIqUPaQPu-zgb9qyj39BBnpPHSwQyMnK45tBLyXFepNaFzeUI02NwlJA/s400/IMG_0822.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Colin jugging up to our hanging belay on the Girth Pillar</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFS8Bg54dM_fikKVBCNCcpQk6SLzN3OmP7-Wo-OB27cd_VEGOS5qyaowXS4Brb_zN06wjCi7wRBxDI56w695qh3JnJrArEv4Vk4_JTnZ7Y1_Ff6Ffp0gO6rmtrh7SB5edAve1UUQ/s1600/20120722-P7220029+(1).JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhFS8Bg54dM_fikKVBCNCcpQk6SLzN3OmP7-Wo-OB27cd_VEGOS5qyaowXS4Brb_zN06wjCi7wRBxDI56w695qh3JnJrArEv4Vk4_JTnZ7Y1_Ff6Ffp0gO6rmtrh7SB5edAve1UUQ/s400/20120722-P7220029+(1).JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me leading the 5.11 section on the second pitch</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<br />Nate Farrhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01500209369684653499noreply@blogger.com28tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-32202812.post-61227374848437584072012-07-19T22:40:00.001-07:002012-07-19T22:40:08.213-07:00Adventures in Meth-opotamia<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
The climbing at the Index Town Walls is perhaps the biggest draw to the Sky Valley aside from the meth cookers. The climbing can get you just as high... without all those bugs crawling under your skin.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
Jason and I ran out for an after-work session up at the upper town wall. It had been about ten years since I'd been on Heaven's Gate which is a fantastic sport multipitch line about fifty yards left of Davis-Holland. There isn't a bad section on this route and developers bolted it very well (albeit a tad conservatively in some sections). Bring 14 draws, leave the trad rack hanging at the first belay and a single 70m rope will get you up and down. In my mind this route is on par with Davis-Holland an ought to have a line at the bottom. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAK0YZIrH7Kpd3tPpORQFIT54Hx9M3qRqvDMr7veytTQNai5QThqvPlIl10pJwOhLL5sqbEgXP3qzBF_fR8ZvUFiJHtA4L9w8LWO_9DELYogLb9QweRy_0XVuS3C8ULGFm3sxuAQ/s1600/IMG_0784.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiAK0YZIrH7Kpd3tPpORQFIT54Hx9M3qRqvDMr7veytTQNai5QThqvPlIl10pJwOhLL5sqbEgXP3qzBF_fR8ZvUFiJHtA4L9w8LWO_9DELYogLb9QweRy_0XVuS3C8ULGFm3sxuAQ/s320/IMG_0784.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jason climbing Lamplighter (Heaven's Gate's first pitch).</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpls1IPkFIV6Ghdbs-XNKUlF3I27VphdLA3-9-dUuOL5Xhgwy58ZVkJB5DaoPZIeRlh2ww-p8Q_0h7nnO6G9JO16QGyJCwOP15mSnvJe7Y7kstn6YUKZtTLAzH_wO8O8R2t15mkA/s1600/IMG_0788.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgpls1IPkFIV6Ghdbs-XNKUlF3I27VphdLA3-9-dUuOL5Xhgwy58ZVkJB5DaoPZIeRlh2ww-p8Q_0h7nnO6G9JO16QGyJCwOP15mSnvJe7Y7kstn6YUKZtTLAzH_wO8O8R2t15mkA/s320/IMG_0788.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jason nearing the top of the second pitch.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiLv7aLDArZ-XjthgFA6u_YqkfI_i1sMNq9mnED9Cspk_J6OvWDvL5vRqf05VxpuwqYjF-rZANz8fwuSbilE2GE_MQBgZtnHmIYfK7tpB_eNsE6HiqLnv_ni0NpAsK55Dp20eBAg/s1600/IMG_0792.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiLv7aLDArZ-XjthgFA6u_YqkfI_i1sMNq9mnED9Cspk_J6OvWDvL5vRqf05VxpuwqYjF-rZANz8fwuSbilE2GE_MQBgZtnHmIYfK7tpB_eNsE6HiqLnv_ni0NpAsK55Dp20eBAg/s320/IMG_0792.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jason on the third pitch. The route finishes up the obvious<br />double roofs above with a definite crux at the second roof.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />Nate Farrhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01500209369684653499noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-32202812.post-35917393916748965172012-07-01T07:20:00.000-07:002012-07-01T07:20:04.466-07:00Come to Washington Pass for the Crack<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
This summer started out right with a great day out and a route scratched from the tick list. Though Washington Pass has some of the best alpine climbing in the state, I've actually climbed there very little. Though low lying fruit abounded, Chris and I opted to try Freedom Rider an entirely free route on the E Face of Liberty Bell. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
There should be a line at the base of this route. After two easy and somewhat loose pitches one reaches the crux third pitch. The third pitch is either a reportedly scary and runout 10d or an 11b offwidth. We chose the offwidth and days later I still look like I got attacked by a bear. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
After the crux pitch, the route briefly joins the Liberty Crack route where it surmounts the aptly named "rotten block" then heads off right. A massive chimney feature leads into Medusa's Roof which is one of the most unique pitches I've ever climbed. Back-to-foot chimney moves lead horizontally out from the belay then overcome a massive chockstone and follow a splitter crack to the belay.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
It was fun to climb with Chris who has spent many days climbing at Washington Pass and had previously climbed all the pitches on Freedom Rider beyond the rotten block. </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Best of all, though we carried rain gear in our packs all day, the rain held off until the precise moment we reached the car. Nothing better than hitting a weather window perfectly... makes going to work all weekend, in the rain, more bearable.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitilR-Plsdmkemc5SBcPHawHmmIJvKwa6LC5wDVRQCzKk0wm2R6WiNXl7b2dWeW5X3XM2fPM-kamsDp4yBAYX9Ov9-ilsIhsgMKcl3X-HBEezlFhBop6cjG8oq6k5OrSs-4kW-YA/s1600/IMG_0750.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitilR-Plsdmkemc5SBcPHawHmmIJvKwa6LC5wDVRQCzKk0wm2R6WiNXl7b2dWeW5X3XM2fPM-kamsDp4yBAYX9Ov9-ilsIhsgMKcl3X-HBEezlFhBop6cjG8oq6k5OrSs-4kW-YA/s320/IMG_0750.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chris on the approach (if you can call a 30-min stroll and approach!)</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1e8cMj_VSGwYe8wOe2O1VrHsSIYotCXkdjAdNgtNq0tGB0_ISKLHi4KuwrVpgG2XQ5ysp_JohG-AJmYIDh5AAckt-3XzN75T-aZnv2M8vfJl95ghyphenhyphendS44ItAtw9z8fe2I7dbHLA/s1600/IMG_0760.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1e8cMj_VSGwYe8wOe2O1VrHsSIYotCXkdjAdNgtNq0tGB0_ISKLHi4KuwrVpgG2XQ5ysp_JohG-AJmYIDh5AAckt-3XzN75T-aZnv2M8vfJl95ghyphenhyphendS44ItAtw9z8fe2I7dbHLA/s320/IMG_0760.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A little spice at the end of pitch two, face climbing between cracks.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg26ZCyiF27rKuSIsSNxDu0wzYApbAonHiWUjOMQJM7F8_CIaQBjn8M3M_xCBGD7TXoSRMGNE1CHGzNJ4FBa6oyy1eW9hKbZ8bfbT9vCLIvxdnWS3POHSZ0gqc-yCJOZmSCJ8GxMw/s1600/IMG_0767.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg26ZCyiF27rKuSIsSNxDu0wzYApbAonHiWUjOMQJM7F8_CIaQBjn8M3M_xCBGD7TXoSRMGNE1CHGzNJ4FBa6oyy1eW9hKbZ8bfbT9vCLIvxdnWS3POHSZ0gqc-yCJOZmSCJ8GxMw/s320/IMG_0767.JPG" width="240" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chris about to pull over the chockstone on Medusa's Roof. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhf1bdPWqIx4Qww6Kgcuh3v3gcGNBdacA5P9dFfGw868D-aW3DrZlpJI13M08eOOckeEIyblAMgqVIH8LOXYyPbx-a3AzVdKqHYMfgbNUiciDbmBKrdLVIMVzLMI6iLojgIfWt3nA/s1600/IMG_0776.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhf1bdPWqIx4Qww6Kgcuh3v3gcGNBdacA5P9dFfGw868D-aW3DrZlpJI13M08eOOckeEIyblAMgqVIH8LOXYyPbx-a3AzVdKqHYMfgbNUiciDbmBKrdLVIMVzLMI6iLojgIfWt3nA/s320/IMG_0776.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Even the townspeople came out to see...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<div>
<br /></div>Nate Farrhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01500209369684653499noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-32202812.post-58224425565027507472012-03-30T08:24:00.000-07:002012-03-30T08:24:29.037-07:00Too Cold to FireColin and I headed to Alaska just after the official start of Spring. We were the first climbing party to fly in this season (other than the winter big-mountain soloists). We didn't get anything done besides taking our gear for a walk a couple times... unfortunately it took two airplane rides and a car rental to get our gear to the glacier so we could walk it.<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
I can't really describe how cold it was except to stay that everything froze, quickly. It was a big effort for us to stay warm in base camp and it was impossible to stay warm while climbing, alpine bivying or belaying. The results of the trip are still disappointing and will probably cut even deeper as temps improve and people start sending climbs.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Though a complete failure from a climbing standpoint we did get to spend a week in one of the most beautiful places in the world, explore some potential new lines and see an amazing show of the aurora borealis.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
We'll both be back to Alaska... but not in March.</div>
<div>
<br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizRUeZnsxgw7OvzQSyZa3S3WyGYTud_-R3XjmYUFCHuCj70YXvoWfwWdmfk2L4nbS0oKPhFOiuw6Q6ZlVrSzOTGjtbGmO_z5G5_0-vRpkDfjfyuB2jAWsCaMKE5_eaJH4Pf45Yow/s1600/IMG_0212.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizRUeZnsxgw7OvzQSyZa3S3WyGYTud_-R3XjmYUFCHuCj70YXvoWfwWdmfk2L4nbS0oKPhFOiuw6Q6ZlVrSzOTGjtbGmO_z5G5_0-vRpkDfjfyuB2jAWsCaMKE5_eaJH4Pf45Yow/s400/IMG_0212.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Looks warm in the sun, but I don't think we felt north of zero</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgE1tVhyvbBfCnVKmjWT5OrckM2Ld9tpMVpy35hZHc6_khlFsvh16wGq-OmxB9RfZpmPYKArfD6VzODzvRx2JxEWsgDbPFPzti-wFK-KDZvQ79pGLGkhwgxR6q87rKxbZGjLKMn2g/s1600/IMG_0214.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgE1tVhyvbBfCnVKmjWT5OrckM2Ld9tpMVpy35hZHc6_khlFsvh16wGq-OmxB9RfZpmPYKArfD6VzODzvRx2JxEWsgDbPFPzti-wFK-KDZvQ79pGLGkhwgxR6q87rKxbZGjLKMn2g/s400/IMG_0214.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Skiing toward Mtn. House from Peak 11,300</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKd80q8mGJ38edkzvWoGtptQgAUgZNu6lndfBo5FU-3-Dw22Y-RraikAU9Theq9GKaGCciIeY42Tpj3zsQjDtKdWKXEy_9OA9IU822mBYJLXrliMb2tAFgEA7cAWFktmO8Tz7Xkg/s1600/IMG_0216.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgKd80q8mGJ38edkzvWoGtptQgAUgZNu6lndfBo5FU-3-Dw22Y-RraikAU9Theq9GKaGCciIeY42Tpj3zsQjDtKdWKXEy_9OA9IU822mBYJLXrliMb2tAFgEA7cAWFktmO8Tz7Xkg/s400/IMG_0216.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">What we did in the 10 hours we weren't in sleeping bags</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUlXNQ0x5Y479rD7rlYUooHblPg91jWN1M_r68HYhh96O7wofY-zP3VYb9K_MLQUEN3jo_wdgeHGYgEI2pU5pMv2ogfAZtDshJZh94-6RhQAapP_B3QTRX58KAOhGw4nuSspid7Q/s1600/IMG_0256.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhUlXNQ0x5Y479rD7rlYUooHblPg91jWN1M_r68HYhh96O7wofY-zP3VYb9K_MLQUEN3jo_wdgeHGYgEI2pU5pMv2ogfAZtDshJZh94-6RhQAapP_B3QTRX58KAOhGw4nuSspid7Q/s400/IMG_0256.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The morning after a miserable night</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-ZrcnFENK8EHEdlB0ANky0XO1TdqSAs9T7jzXLqzaLpwnwyj0VrQxe_FJaJ0vTLEieWzdure-2S0BX7rDpGR1sJnZ_JvpQmOuxg4f_3C9Jsjqp1HLUTWqs7d9yxsBo9P8GB3CTA/s1600/IMG_0268.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-ZrcnFENK8EHEdlB0ANky0XO1TdqSAs9T7jzXLqzaLpwnwyj0VrQxe_FJaJ0vTLEieWzdure-2S0BX7rDpGR1sJnZ_JvpQmOuxg4f_3C9Jsjqp1HLUTWqs7d9yxsBo9P8GB3CTA/s400/IMG_0268.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Flying out of the Ruth Gorge</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br /></div>Nate Farrhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01500209369684653499noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-32202812.post-61023044392261668102012-03-01T17:03:00.001-08:002012-03-01T17:03:34.226-08:00The Best Ice Crag in North America<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
Sorry Banff, you too Cody. Colorado, you weren't even in the running... </div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
Lake Willoughby, VT takes its rightful spot as the best ice crag in North America. Over the length of about two miles ice spills off Mt. Pisgah forming many sustained difficult ice climbs. There's no contrievance at Willoughby. Most are independent lines on independent features... and they're proud. Essentially everything is harder than Wi4 and many are harder than Wi5. A few of the prouder features fall plumb-line for three rope stretching pitches. The best part might be the approach: a ten minute stroll up a hillside.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
Don't get me wrong, there is more proud climbing within a three hour radius of Banff than there is within three hours of Lake Willoughby but on a crag-to-crag basis its the best and is a lot of room for futuristic lines on par with anything that the Stanley Headwall or Trophy Wall have to offer.</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
Given its easy access from urban centers and major international airports, for my money, I'll be back next year for sure...</div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9_AC9sY0ur_QW5kAUDErzscvctrycu0y2GAD6_FiILP9pCfacdUr62oSkgypX001ajwI9Q0u1MXE_i-SYQ1wAjKIXB9fd6dq_04zXVlOC4UL_rvFxmTqWnNsjug0HiFq2GHwOTg/s1600/IMG_0106.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9_AC9sY0ur_QW5kAUDErzscvctrycu0y2GAD6_FiILP9pCfacdUr62oSkgypX001ajwI9Q0u1MXE_i-SYQ1wAjKIXB9fd6dq_04zXVlOC4UL_rvFxmTqWnNsjug0HiFq2GHwOTg/s400/IMG_0106.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Andrew about to top-out on a Willoughby Pillar. </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1Sz322cD9F-3Sdd8zGXi3DgXW-weEcGziZlMSHHCnwo4wKhcDY7pBx6gBBomXBl5d5S9vQtGnK2j85TKzS7sv_wTJ9xX57TUrt2k-m441M9KZnj1occtP-6uL5vMLLYkkFmN37g/s1600/IMG_0109.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi1Sz322cD9F-3Sdd8zGXi3DgXW-weEcGziZlMSHHCnwo4wKhcDY7pBx6gBBomXBl5d5S9vQtGnK2j85TKzS7sv_wTJ9xX57TUrt2k-m441M9KZnj1occtP-6uL5vMLLYkkFmN37g/s400/IMG_0109.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">This is the NE's worst year in decades... <br />and there were still about ten individual lines in.</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgW-E2zdOgVd2K9Yd2MyczefxIqlyun3QIBnVFTN2GMNzYFYuzl9b3thuQxgxwExeeYFM41qKDIShOFS85CXuzQQSJ1iO3EbKtDow2chxvX_sQSqNXt9lkF8XAEn7eiCbMWF9CeOg/s1600/IMG_0115.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgW-E2zdOgVd2K9Yd2MyczefxIqlyun3QIBnVFTN2GMNzYFYuzl9b3thuQxgxwExeeYFM41qKDIShOFS85CXuzQQSJ1iO3EbKtDow2chxvX_sQSqNXt9lkF8XAEn7eiCbMWF9CeOg/s400/IMG_0115.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cruising up an Underwood Canyon classic...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-GTApQf6JnioJLW3ZSHokWZEmGNOr7U7uUkhIrc0ykv8wrpfEe1bRZuGhyIG3c4_mjGn5E_1A97yX1ze5hR0vRTscJjo67SrsxUOms7iYLeiEnptpapqS3dT4PzATPZci3QNa5w/s1600/IMG_0125.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi-GTApQf6JnioJLW3ZSHokWZEmGNOr7U7uUkhIrc0ykv8wrpfEe1bRZuGhyIG3c4_mjGn5E_1A97yX1ze5hR0vRTscJjo67SrsxUOms7iYLeiEnptpapqS3dT4PzATPZci3QNa5w/s400/IMG_0125.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The NE: Climb Free or Die!</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />Nate Farrhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01500209369684653499noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-32202812.post-62680990481046041132012-02-12T07:19:00.001-08:002012-02-12T07:19:34.671-08:00The Blue Light Special<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;">Though I had spent most of the past week in a benadryl and illness induced coma, the high pressure system and a couple motivated partners spurred me to consciousness. Though I ended up drafting on my partners more than usual (especial at camp) still manage to lead a couple solid blocks of leads and together we completed a first winter ascent on a big route in good style. Surprisingly everything went to plan. We made it to the bivouac on day one with minimal night climbing, made it to the summit and back down to our packs in the daylight, even the snowmobile ran on our trip out!<br /><br /><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLFoYAjrPM0CL7dqBx_PlQra4axypTzHGcjvFAMHxD7y8CPHHYGnrP1PwLpt1ksTAWekU_NkdBDFZIDn5vN-ZQQ4a7Qg5jB7yOk-PKG2XP4WlIs-65ra0eLwCCbC1Wl4Qd4za1Vg/s1600/Dragontail+NE+Buttress.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLFoYAjrPM0CL7dqBx_PlQra4axypTzHGcjvFAMHxD7y8CPHHYGnrP1PwLpt1ksTAWekU_NkdBDFZIDn5vN-ZQQ4a7Qg5jB7yOk-PKG2XP4WlIs-65ra0eLwCCbC1Wl4Qd4za1Vg/s400/Dragontail+NE+Buttress.jpg" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Our line followed the buttress between the two prominent couloir systems</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br />
Jens has to be the most knowledgeable person for the Stuart Range. He claims something like 180+ trips into the range... I thought I was bored of the area after maybe 18 trips! Unfortunately the line was nearly devoid of climbable ice being mostly comprised of frozen turf, snowy rock and icy cracks. It wasn't dry enough to take off the crampons or even holster the tools for a pitch nor was it icy enough to prevent complete dulling of those points. A small price to pay... gear is meant to be used after all.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiQ_46nqZSjsTNKO0C9wjQbY0IN-VNtPbvrfjafN-sEWggVQZ-fJouNISBDDMAaXxMt2GKm2TClABNyg5bNt7AXBezFjdV2WsZzR-nRMe0Ivj8OTyiztn58WrupDgSUXu82s3fWg/s1600/P2030021.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiQ_46nqZSjsTNKO0C9wjQbY0IN-VNtPbvrfjafN-sEWggVQZ-fJouNISBDDMAaXxMt2GKm2TClABNyg5bNt7AXBezFjdV2WsZzR-nRMe0Ivj8OTyiztn58WrupDgSUXu82s3fWg/s400/P2030021.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Blue Light Special </td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGZjbGyF0Bvsf_BzEj-QjUXmuV87nsc-01oRPDBwpP5YSsIEnC2T20iozLJu0ROEtsjDypleEV_xQdODKG-9iN06OuMGNlElyzKYMRlMnR35OYYjHMxw_2tm3bTNSwH1CtBGYGzA/s1600/P2030026.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGZjbGyF0Bvsf_BzEj-QjUXmuV87nsc-01oRPDBwpP5YSsIEnC2T20iozLJu0ROEtsjDypleEV_xQdODKG-9iN06OuMGNlElyzKYMRlMnR35OYYjHMxw_2tm3bTNSwH1CtBGYGzA/s400/P2030026.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me scraping up the lower buttress on day one</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
We climbed in blocks of 2-4 pitches depending on terrain. On the first day Jens and I both lead a three pitch block which brought us to a rappel and a short traversing pitch to the narrow bivouac ledge. There is nothing I love more than an alpine bivy where you have to guy the tent to keep it from rolling off a cliff and stay tied in for the entire night... sleeping with a helmet on gives you bonus points. <br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEic70VqfGA3W0TSkYHD3NYexDIZldmmqB2h3E9Xjc9yYk2b8GAta1WJdGEnlBzurchSgNSYBKLWThaX3bTvBnCdFf_72wd76LaS98slP0y23gwJ185-wlGa4IaLj3tHcf22TNx8eA/s1600/P2040044.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEic70VqfGA3W0TSkYHD3NYexDIZldmmqB2h3E9Xjc9yYk2b8GAta1WJdGEnlBzurchSgNSYBKLWThaX3bTvBnCdFf_72wd76LaS98slP0y23gwJ185-wlGa4IaLj3tHcf22TNx8eA/s400/P2040044.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pretty awesome exposure on day two... the void looking right back...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
Colin lead out on day two. His block had some amazing exposure. I mentioned to Colin that it was like looking into the void, then realizing it was staring back at you (Nietzsche?). Jens with his vast area experience knew every turn of the upper ridge and ended up taking another block with long simul-climbing sections. I took the final block which culminated in a complex pitch to the windy summit anchor.<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3BFT-cD0ouPk7u5PH-v38uGnvqv2u4JWPWqvACE1EsBGMmh1n5F4dN6JLXZ30OTcLqU-HtnmWOdu7hFoOxHSLFpgZOq5aTEi9jETfmnRscdXxhf8tVQ2q0TTp58eXKDkjjacEqA/s1600/P2040046.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3BFT-cD0ouPk7u5PH-v38uGnvqv2u4JWPWqvACE1EsBGMmh1n5F4dN6JLXZ30OTcLqU-HtnmWOdu7hFoOxHSLFpgZOq5aTEi9jETfmnRscdXxhf8tVQ2q0TTp58eXKDkjjacEqA/s400/P2040046.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Jens negotiating the hurricane winds at the summit</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
It's pretty rare that an alpine climb works out... but this one did in essentially every aspect. Colin even made it to his party in Seattle on day two!Nate Farrhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01500209369684653499noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-32202812.post-27478075511239534262012-02-08T19:19:00.000-08:002012-02-12T06:55:46.979-08:00The NW Ice Cycle<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitS7MiFl4CsWjRqAxN0Evu8H5rBKjmT6UOkBIUqoOwMTC8IYc6eiQ0P6gEnV12nb8WlwSE5JzZTUHETGKDvFgirl5QJthVU3eLrf3T9SG1qdCi2o7oZLKhE53aL1QDlzQX295Icw/s1600/PC230144.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEitS7MiFl4CsWjRqAxN0Evu8H5rBKjmT6UOkBIUqoOwMTC8IYc6eiQ0P6gEnV12nb8WlwSE5JzZTUHETGKDvFgirl5QJthVU3eLrf3T9SG1qdCi2o7oZLKhE53aL1QDlzQX295Icw/s400/PC230144.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Just some more local ice that nobody is getting after...</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<br /></div>
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td class="tr-caption"><div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: small;">The NW Ice Cycle</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: small;">Will Gadd made up a Rockies Ice Cycle for his GravSports webpage. Though ice climbing in the Canadian Rockies is magnitudes greater than the NW, I’ve created the NW Ice Cycle (hint, there is a lot of driving). As a NW based ice climber I’ve hunted for ice with varying success and still managed to rack up 30-40 days each season. Though I would never advise that anyone both be an ice climber and live in the NW but if necessary hopefully this will help you enjoy a long season and progress as an ice climber.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: small;">There just isn’t a lot of ice in the NW. Though there are plenty of climbers who rack up double digit days climbing only in the NW you will spend a lot of low quality days on mediocre climbs without sustained difficulties. If you want to increase the difficulty of what you’re climbing each season you need to climb what we do have: rock. Establish a drytooling crag on some low quality crag to get used to climbing with your tools and crampons as well as developing some sport specific strengths and skills.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: small;">Summer: Enjoy the good weather and climb lots of rock. Your rock training will translate to ice skills once it gets cold. True prophets of the sport will develop a local mixed crag where they can train in the fall and winter when there is no local climbable ice, or when schedule dictates a quick session.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: small;">Late Summer/Early Fall: If you’re keen the serac climbing is in good shape this time of year. Serac climbing is pretty mundane so most climbers will (should) opt for some crisp fall rock climbing. If you have a local drytooling crag this is a great time to get a session or two. If you get comfortable climbing with tools and crampons now, it won’t feel awkward when the early season ice forms. Regardless, start doing some pull-ups.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: small;">October: There is always a window for early season alpine ice in October in the NW. Despite the message boards, I have climbed routes in excellent condition when everyone says that “nothing is in.” Look for high elevation routes (Colfax, etc.) and go for it, there almost always in by mid-month. This is also an awesome time to head to the Rockies. If you get there before the snow starts dumping you can climb alpine on the Icefields Parkway or hit one of the many alpine-esque ice routes around Canmore. Distant areas like the Sphynx in Montana or the Beartooths in Wyoming can be great now too.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: small;">November: This is a month to travel. Get as many days as you can, that way you’ll be honed when the climbs come in at home. Bozeman, Cody and Banff should all be in condition by now. The weather is probably too poor to climb high elevation ice in the NW and there won’t be any low elevation ice. If atypical weather occurs there will be ice at elevation in the NW and it needs to be climbed. Between trips you could be climbing at your local mixed crag if you bothered to make one over the summer. Since you probably didn’t you’re like 98% of NW climbers and are watching the boards religiously while more inspired climbers have already racked up 10+ days.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: small;">December - February: This is basically the ice season in the NW. It varies year to year but if you know where and when to climb you can climb almost every weekend these months. If you get a strong arctic front it is really easy to find local climbs because everything is in on the West side. Watch the telemetry and look for areas like Leavenworth, Banks Lake and Vantage when the East side is cold but its wet everywhere else. Strobach Mountain is the best ice climbing in Washington. In fact, if you consider the Motherload crag it is probably one of the best in North America. I’ve climbed extensively from Banff, Cody, Colorado, Utah, California and New England and the only crags better than Strobach are Lake Willoughby, VT, the Stanley Headwall, BC and the Trophy Wall, AB. It’s that good. In all my trips to Strobach I’ve never even seen another climber, by far the most underused resource in Washington. If there isn’t a lot of ice formed or it’s a bit warm try climbing the mixed lines on Icicle Creek Road. It’s Little Bavaria’s answer to Scottish climbing and there are probably 300+ lines along the road that are only touched by a handful of climbers.</span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: small;">March: Time to travel again. Banff in March is amazing. The days are long, the temperatures are moderate, the climbs are fat and the snow has settled. Take a week because you will have the place to yourself. Everyone is tired of ice from the winter, but because you’re from the PNW and haven’t seen any ice so far you’ll be stoked and alone on the climbs. This is a great time to be rewarded for a season of poor conditions and hunting for ice. Though there are exceptions, in general, the days are too long for climbs to form in the NW but alpine routes are possible and should be considered if conditions permit. </span></div>
<div class="MsoNormal">
<span style="font-size: small;">April-Early Summer: The ice sticks around for a long time in the alpine. I know of routes like the NW Couloir of Eldorado getting climbed in July as fat ice routes. There is no reason that the start of rock season should indicate the end of NW ice climbing. There are hundreds of fat alpine ice routes waiting for a willing climber who has an imagination (and a bookmark of the Scurlock photo-gallery). </span></div>
</td></tr>
</tbody></table>
<br class="Apple-interchange-newline" /><div style="text-align: center;">
<br class="Apple-interchange-newline" /></div>Nate Farrhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01500209369684653499noreply@blogger.com0