Contraserius

The Blue Light Special

2012-02-12T07:19:00.001-08:00

Though I had spent most of the past week in a benadryl and illness induced coma, the high pressure system and a couple motivated partners spurred me to consciousness. Though I ended up drafting on my partners more than usual (especial at camp) still manage to lead a couple solid blocks of leads and together we completed a first winter ascent on a big route in good style. Surprisingly everything went to plan. We made it to the bivouac on day one with minimal night climbing, made it to the summit and back down to our packs in the daylight, even the snowmobile ran on our trip out!

Our line followed the buttress between the two prominent couloir systems

Jens has to be the most knowledgeable person for the Stuart Range. He claims something like 180+ trips into the range... I thought I was bored of the area after maybe 18 trips! Unfortunately the line was nearly devoid of climbable ice being mostly comprised of frozen turf, snowy rock and icy cracks. It wasn't dry enough to take off the crampons or even holster the tools for a pitch nor was it icy enough to prevent complete dulling of those points. A small price to pay... gear is meant to be used after all.

The Blue Light Special

Me scraping up the lower buttress on day one

We climbed in blocks of 2-4 pitches depending on terrain. On the first day Jens and I both lead a three pitch block which brought us to a rappel and a short traversing pitch to the narrow bivouac ledge. There is nothing I love more than an alpine bivy where you have to guy the tent to keep it from rolling off a cliff and stay tied in for the entire night... sleeping with a helmet on gives you bonus points.

Pretty awesome exposure on day two... the void looking right back...

Colin lead out on day two. His block had some amazing exposure. I mentioned to Colin that it was like looking into the void, then realizing it was staring back at you (Nietzsche?). Jens with his vast area experience knew every turn of the upper ridge and ended up taking another block with long simul-climbing sections. I took the final block which culminated in a complex pitch to the windy summit anchor.

Jens negotiating the hurricane winds at the summit

It's pretty rare that an alpine climb works out... but this one did in essentially every aspect. Colin even made it to his party in Seattle on day two!

The NW Ice Cycle

2012-02-08T19:19:00.000-08:00

Just some more local ice that nobody is getting after...

The NW Ice Cycle

Will Gadd made up a Rockies Ice Cycle for his GravSports webpage. Though ice climbing in the Canadian Rockies is magnitudes greater than the NW, I’ve created the NW Ice Cycle (hint, there is a lot of driving). As a NW based ice climber I’ve hunted for ice with varying success and still managed to rack up 30-40 days each season. Though I would never advise that anyone both be an ice climber and live in the NW but if necessary hopefully this will help you enjoy a long season and progress as an ice climber.

There just isn’t a lot of ice in the NW. Though there are plenty of climbers who rack up double digit days climbing only in the NW you will spend a lot of low quality days on mediocre climbs without sustained difficulties. If you want to increase the difficulty of what you’re climbing each season you need to climb what we do have: rock. Establish a drytooling crag on some low quality crag to get used to climbing with your tools and crampons as well as developing some sport specific strengths and skills.

Summer: Enjoy the good weather and climb lots of rock. Your rock training will translate to ice skills once it gets cold. True prophets of the sport will develop a local mixed crag where they can train in the fall and winter when there is no local climbable ice, or when schedule dictates a quick session.

Late Summer/Early Fall: If you’re keen the serac climbing is in good shape this time of year. Serac climbing is pretty mundane so most climbers will (should) opt for some crisp fall rock climbing. If you have a local drytooling crag this is a great time to get a session or two. If you get comfortable climbing with tools and crampons now, it won’t feel awkward when the early season ice forms. Regardless, start doing some pull-ups.

October: There is always a window for early season alpine ice in October in the NW. Despite the message boards, I have climbed routes in excellent condition when everyone says that “nothing is in.” Look for high elevation routes (Colfax, etc.) and go for it, there almost always in by mid-month. This is also an awesome time to head to the Rockies. If you get there before the snow starts dumping you can climb alpine on the Icefields Parkway or hit one of the many alpine-esque ice routes around Canmore. Distant areas like the Sphynx in Montana or the Beartooths in Wyoming can be great now too.

November: This is a month to travel. Get as many days as you can, that way you’ll be honed when the climbs come in at home. Bozeman, Cody and Banff should all be in condition by now. The weather is probably too poor to climb high elevation ice in the NW and there won’t be any low elevation ice. If atypical weather occurs there will be ice at elevation in the NW and it needs to be climbed. Between trips you could be climbing at your local mixed crag if you bothered to make one over the summer. Since you probably didn’t you’re like 98% of NW climbers and are watching the boards religiously while more inspired climbers have already racked up 10+ days.

December - February: This is basically the ice season in the NW. It varies year to year but if you know where and when to climb you can climb almost every weekend these months. If you get a strong arctic front it is really easy to find local climbs because everything is in on the West side. Watch the telemetry and look for areas like Leavenworth, Banks Lake and Vantage when the East side is cold but its wet everywhere else. Strobach Mountain is the best ice climbing in Washington. In fact, if you consider the Motherload crag it is probably one of the best in North America. I’ve climbed extensively from Banff, Cody, Colorado, Utah, California and New England and the only crags better than Strobach are Lake Willoughby, VT, the Stanley Headwall, BC and the Trophy Wall, AB. It’s that good. In all my trips to Strobach I’ve never even seen another climber, by far the most underused resource in Washington. If there isn’t a lot of ice formed or it’s a bit warm try climbing the mixed lines on Icicle Creek Road. It’s Little Bavaria’s answer to Scottish climbing and there are probably 300+ lines along the road that are only touched by a handful of climbers.

March: Time to travel again. Banff in March is amazing. The days are long, the temperatures are moderate, the climbs are fat and the snow has settled. Take a week because you will have the place to yourself. Everyone is tired of ice from the winter, but because you’re from the PNW and haven’t seen any ice so far you’ll be stoked and alone on the climbs. This is a great time to be rewarded for a season of poor conditions and hunting for ice. Though there are exceptions, in general, the days are too long for climbs to form in the NW but alpine routes are possible and should be considered if conditions permit.

April-Early Summer: The ice sticks around for a long time in the alpine. I know of routes like the NW Couloir of Eldorado getting climbed in July as fat ice routes. There is no reason that the start of rock season should indicate the end of NW ice climbing. There are hundreds of fat alpine ice routes waiting for a willing climber who has an imagination (and a bookmark of the Scurlock photo-gallery).

The Land of the Living and of the Dead

2012-01-18T00:31:00.000-08:00

After a somewhat intense night at work and the news of acouple recent climbing deaths the reality of morbidity and mortality, for me,is glaringly present.

I deal with death more than most people. Through working full time in a busy urbanemergency room and then engaging in a recreational activity that is not devoidof risk I have first-hand experience with more debilitating injuries and mortalitiesthan I want to think about.

I forget who to attribute this to, but the quote goes that climbingisn’t worth dying for, but it is worth risking dying for. I won’t argue with that.

I’ve never been more engaged in the moment than when I’mclimbing, but it is not without risks. Even miniscule mistakes in climbing can have life-altering, or ending,results. Most climbers don’t acknowledgethe actual consequences of their actions. There aren’t many climbers that who have confronted climbing’sconsequences and still climb with a carefree mindset. I’m not one of those lucky few. The lessons learned in the past years havetaught me how precious and delicate life is. I now know how lucky I am to have the ability to pursue my passion, andthat in the end, my recreational pursuits are meaningless.

Life is fragile and transient. Climbing accomplishments are such a smallfragment of a persons’ life that they’re practically inconsequential. Do what you have passion for, but keep it inperspective. Climbing is amazing butrelationships are important. It’s hardto remember who had what ascent on which peak and during which season but it isa persons’ relationships that endure.

There is aland of the living and a land of the dead and the bridge is love, the onlysurvival, the only meaning. –Thornton Wilder

Winter Climbing: Fun, and not just in retrospect

2012-01-17T22:27:00.000-08:00

This year winter starts in mid-January.

Despite an early fall storm and an early start to the ski and ice seasons, January found us with conditions more reminiscent of fall than winter. Snow was minimal in the alpine leaving many faces dry when typically they would be icy. In normal years I wouldn't even consider heading for a rock face if I had stable snow and weather in January, but this year is different.

Taking advantage of the rare conditions, Blake suggested we complete the first winter ascent of Colchuck Balanced Rock West Face. Aided by a well packed trail due to a Denali training trip (thank you sloglodytes!) and firm neve we had an easy approach on the first day and camped beneath the face. On the second day we slept in a little to avoid the brutal temperatures completed the climb and started the descent. We summited just as the sun set and made a hasty descent reaching the car from the summit in just three hours.

Winter climbing is another game entirely. The "easy" pitches that collect snow and ice provided the crux and the "hard" steep pitches were mostly straightforward aid, french-free and free climbing. Blake ripped out a cam while french-freeing on the first pitch setting the tone of the climb and essentially set the tone of the climb. I found a snow and ice chocked corner that made me dig barehanded in the snow for placements and left me with a rp rat nest anchor. Blake had an especially exciting snow and turf mantel on the third pitch which would have been made easier by the tools accidentally left at the belay. The remaining "hard" pitches to the summit were straightforward and devoid of snow.

Blake and I actually had fun while climbing that route. Winter climbing is rarely enjoyable in the moment and usually in retrospect the miseries are as memorable as the joys. That we actually enjoyed ourselves should be a statement to the quality of the climbing, the weather and the experience.

Walking across a frozen Colchuck Lake with CBR W Face in the sun upper left.

Exciting climbing on the "easy" pithces

Jugging the corner

Following the crux pitch

Summiting in the twillight

A Long December

2011-12-19T20:14:00.000-08:00

Ice climbing is intrinsically motivating. Unlike rock climbing where you just need to wait for a dry day, ice climbing is all conditions. You can have ice but wind and not climb. Ice but its fragile and not send. Ice but its thin or baked and you back off. Unlike rock climbing, you cannot pass up an opportunity to climb when it presents itself. As an ice climber in the PNW... you earn it. In a period of just over a month I've done three trips and logged just nine days of climbing. To earn those days I've driven 4,800 miles just to and from the climbing areas. Totally worth it.

Here's some highlights from two trips to the Canadian Rockies and one trip to Cody, WY.

Mean Green Pitch Four

Animal Rights Activist

Pillar of Pain

Mixed Master (minus the mixed!)

Redman Soars

Things That Scare Me

2011-11-02T21:04:00.000-07:00

Picking up something heavy, picking up something light and moving quickly that's pretty much what it boils down to. However, there are certain WODs that are absolutely devastating. These workouts cause a shiver when I flip through my training log for daily WOD ideas. At work we use a pain scale for patients to describe pain. Any one of these equate to a 10/10 on the pain scale. Here's my top (bottom!) 5.

1: 3000 FY. 3000 meters on the rower in less than 10 minutes. That means you need to row 1:40/500m for 10 minutes. I've done this workout probably three or four times and each time I was crushed. I think I actually spat my lung out the last time I did it. So far my best is to get less than 200m from hitting the mark....

2: 300 FY. 300 Calories on the AirDyne in less than 10 minutes. Let's face it, the AirDyne is pure evil. It saps your energy in mere seconds. Granted I've only been on it a couple times but the 300FY seems nearly impossible. I did some 2 min splits on the Air Dyne with 2 minutes rest and not a single one of my splits would have been fast enough to be on pace for the 300FY. The aftermath? SVT.

3: Thruster Chicken. Start with a 45# bar at 2 reps. Add 2 reps per minutes. Keep adding reps until you can't complete the reps in that minute. Thrusters are incredibly metabolic. Initially you are able to get some healthy rests after your reps. By the end you will go 4-5 minutes doing constant repetitions of thrusters. It's hard to keep your head in this one because it is so hard.

4: Thruster Ladder. Start with 25 reps at 65# followed by 20 at 85#, 15 at 105#, 10 at 115# and end with 5 at 135#. I could lift my arms for the better part of week after this WOD. I haven't had the courage to try it again since.

5: The Chipper. When I'm getting ready for a big alpine trip I usually try to shift into some depletion style WODs. Mountain Athlete used this when they had their push for 90+ minute WODs. They're grinds so you better load the iPod with a bunch of punk rock because it won't stop. Here's the one I do a few times prior to a big trip:
1x 250x StepUps, w/pack (M-35#)

5x        10x Dead Lift (M-185#)
            15x BoxJumps (M-24")
10x      Row 500m
            5xTurkish Getups each arm (M-12kg)
7x        5x Pull ups
            10xKettlebell Floor Press each arm (M-12kg)
            10x BackExtension
1x        20-15-10-5x
            CurtisP (M-75#)
            Ankles-to-Bar
1x        250x Step Ups, w/pack (M-35#)

God Bless the Indian Summer

2011-09-09T07:19:00.000-07:00

Story to Follow : Dome Peak and S Gunsight Peak

Snow Creek Slow Cooker

2011-08-12T22:59:00.000-07:00

Psychopath Pitch Crux

Marcus pulls the roof on pitch three.

Marcus jams steep cracks and flakes on pitch four.

Pitch four close up.

The chimney right before the Pressure Chamber.

In the spirit of revisiting the ol' ticklist Marcus and I spent a day this week climbing Hyperspace. Believe the hype, Hyperspace is good.... real good. Fully admitting that I'm not a rock hotshot I found the climbing pretty challenging, though with some move specific beta much more obtainable. First off, expect some physical climbing. The upper portion of Hyperspace reminded me more of Yosemite style chimneys and bombays than anything I've seen in Washington. By the time I topped out, I felt pretty beat up. You don't need to worry about saving your tips because you only use knees, elbows, forearms, ass and back to get up this thing. It seems like the perfect Yosemite training route. I'm looking forward to getting back on this and hopefully finishing without feeling like I went ten rounds.

I won't delve into specific beta as Blake's entry on Mountain Project is spot on. I will say that brassy offsets or rps should work well on the Psychopath pitch but the first 2/3 protects well with tcus. Also, the pressure chamber is not an offwidth problem its a stemming problem. Although it must have been pretty humorous going inverted with a thigh jam in a squeeze chimney... at least for one of us. Blake's suggested grades seemed pretty accurate as well, though I wouldn't call any of them easy for the grade. Take doubles from green c3 to #3, don't forget some stoppers including rps and possible some offsets. No #4 needed and you could probably swing it with just one #3. We took ~12 slings and used almost every sling each pitch.

The Doldrums

2011-08-12T22:35:00.000-07:00

Jason on the very fun final pitch of Davis Holland - Loving Arms

The doldrums (aka intertropical convergence zone) is an area of the world where weather systems from the northern and southern hemispheres meet. The weather convergence produces a region laden with long periods of stagnant windless air that torture wind powered seafarers. This summer, that's right all 78 minutes of it above 80 F, feels similar to the doldrums. Long periods of sitting through poor weather in town, working night shifts and a few missed opportunities punctuated with a memorable climb.

I've certainly gotten out far less than I would have hoped this summer. Partly my diminished activity has been the weather but a new city, job, more distant local climbing and paucity of climbing partners has also played a part. Despite the circumstances I have revisited a few climbs that I forgot about long ago.

Almost a decade ago my buddy Tim and I got on the Davis-Holland only to get cooked in triple digit heat. I managed to get back on this route and finish it one evening a couple weeks ago. I found that nearly every pitch had memorable and exciting climbing. If you haven't done this climb... do it tomorrow... or at least don't wait another decade!

Gato Negro

2011-07-13T08:00:00.000-07:00

Mid P3 about to haul, the crux is at top center

Marcus and I settled the score with Gato Negro after having earlier trouble identifying the start of the climb. It always kills me to go on a "climbing" trip and have the approach be the reason for failure but in the Cascades the incidence is high. What adds to the insult is that literally every trip report for this route expounded on it being the "easiest approach in the Wine Spires." It actually is an easy approach but I think the info out there is poor unless you have prior knowledge of the area. Here's the beta I wish I had:

Approach: Follow the approach description per Burgandy Col in the Nelson guide. Once in the basin below the W Face of Silver Star break off the trail toward the R in a gently rising (don't loose any elevation) traverse. Once on the W side of the mountain, the massif appears to be broken into three sections with two major gully systems (think canyon-esque gully systems). Gato Negro is in the middle of the three divisions, the Wine Spires are to the L and the other peak of Silver Star on the R. The climb starts about 50-100ft of a major broad right facing corner and ledge system just uphill of a yellow section of rock. The second pitch (more on this later) is reached by scrambling up a chimney past a tree to a large sandy ledge. The bolts on the second pitch may be visible to you if you have great eyes but I couldn't see them until I was on the ledge. The rock is clean on the second pitch.

Route: We used the topos included in this post, I think made by the first ascensionists. Pitch 1 doesn't exist. Unless the route started via spelunking I have no idea why it was included. Pitch 2 is rad and shouldn't be missed. I could see it feeling pretty heads up if it were wet, cold or windy out but if you're not sending this pitch than the rest of the route is likely out of reach. Pitch 3 is about 55m as opposed to the described 80 ft. Pitch 4 is exactly as described. We set up a haul just above the second chockstone (no established anchor just bracing oneself and pulling the pack up) and once again at the top of the pitch which we moved 20ft R to make the haul clean. Above here the topo was kind of useless. We followed the line of weakness making sure not to stray too far L and to keep below the crest on the R for two rope-stretching pitches which brought us to an alcove-like area about 20 ft below the crest approximately what is described as the top of pitch 7. Pitch 8 headed straight up to a roof which was gained by traversing and escaping its L side. Head back into the L facing corner through a small crux then face climb up and L. Pitch 9 heads for the crest eventually crossing it to the right. The 10th pitch is scary. After clipping a pin move right around the false summit to the true summit. This move is scary, felt like ~5.8 and definatley had consequences. A much better way to finish the route would be to climb the stunning crack to the false summit (you'll know it when you see it) then finish by climbing the crest to the true summit.

Descent: We had snow which apparently made things much easier. From the true summit slings we did two single rope raps with a 70m rope skiers left into a major gully systems. I think you would be screwed if you brought a 60m rope as the stations are not set for this. Once in the gully go down, there were at least two optional rap stations lower in the gully. You get deposited about 200m right of the first pitch.

Rack: 1x70m rope. Stoppers. 2xCams from #1C3 to #2C4. 1xCams from #3-5C4. If I were to ditch a cam it would be the #4C4 as I placed the #5 on almost every pitch and it was very nice to have on pitch 4

Making Adjustments

2011-05-24T23:49:00.000-07:00

I've been back from Alaska for a couple weeks now and aside from being extraordinarily busy, I've been trying to make adjustments. Specifically from a haggard expedition weary alpinist to somebody in shape to do some summer rock climbing. It has been a slow transition. Despite every day feeling like a "high-gravity day" I have some hopes to be in shape someday soon.

In the meanwhile, a few shots that I got from Marcus the other day.

Breaking on through....

....to the other side: Digging through the cornice on the Colton-Leech.

Digging for pro on day two... before the storm.

More recently, Yannis getting his first day in at Index.

Marcus and I were also asked to participate in the CiloGear Propoganda Movies the other day. I wish somebody would have told me that I sound like Jeff Spicoli.

Hey Nate! What's in Your Pack? from CiloGear on Vimeo.

Marcus Donaldson, Mt Huntington and his 45L NWD from CiloGear on Vimeo.

Marcus Makes A Movie

2011-05-20T23:24:00.000-07:00

Into the Wild

2011-05-14T21:53:00.000-07:00

After a few days of storms and then one clear day to clear snow from the face we headed up for round two on Mt. Huntington. Our calves were shot after our first attempt but we cruised the couloir on our second ascent. It took about 4-5 hours fast than our first go. The weather was immaculate... but that wouldn't last.

Marcus climbing through the first constriction

Above the first constriction

Climbing into the second constriction

Marcus strikes a "blue steel"

Marcus on the second constriction

Looking for "the" bivy ledge on day one

The Colton-Leech is known for a paucity of bivy ledges. We found exactly two on our ascent. Our bivy ledge on day one was hacked into ice on the edge of a 2,000' cliff. It took about four hours to clear enough ice for our ledge. Thankfully the pro was good.

Room with a view

Day two started calm but quickly spiraled into a maelstrom. We had a morning with just light clouds but once we had passed the point of no-return the clouds closed in and the snow started. Most of the day felt like we were in a blender and the temps were cold. We figured about -20F... thankfully there was no wind. I'm sure we would have bivied or bailed if that were an option however from 7am until 1am we found exactly one spot to bivy... and that was on the summit ridge itself. It was one of the colder days climbing I've ever had. I just barely warmed up while wearing all my clothes, belay parka and moving. The belays seemed endless and were bone-chillingly cold. At long last, we dug into the summit ridge crawled into the sleepings bags after 2am and tried to rally for the descent and hopefully better weather.

Marcus leads out early on day two

Entering the upper snowfield with the WFC visible to the right

Marcus climbing on the upper snowfield

A quick break in the weather...

Marcus discovers the exit from the upper snowfield

Marcus shakes off the rust on day three

Look Ma, No Lenticular!: Denali on day three

When day three dawned clear we thought we had it in the bag. We knew we were a bit climbers' left of where we meant to be, but that could be reversed. Marcus had a great traversing lead over unconsolidated snow flutings that found a fixed rap anchor. At this point we were sure we had it in the bag. After all, Marcus had some solid experience on this peak... piece of cake, right? During Marcus' traversing pitch, Daniel had Paul from TAT buzz our route to check up on us and radio back. We were feeling pretty good at this time and gave him a thumbs up... but several hours later we still couldn't find the descent. We spent hours trying different ledges systems looking for the WFC. We felt pretty zapped after the previous cold day. At long last, we decided to rap down the unknown descent of the WF. We expected to leave the entire rack on the descent, but stumbled into the WFC after only 5-7 rappels. Once in the couloir proper, it was like sport climbing as we descended John's threads from March. After a full day descending we slumped into the snow in the upper basin and enjoyed the first warmth or sunlight we'd felt in several days.

1000 yard stare mid descent on the WF

Alaska Take One

2011-05-10T21:59:00.000-07:00

This is the fourth trip to Alaska that I've had in various stages of planning... but just the first to see me actually get into the range. The wait did not disappoint. I've climbed on big alpine faces before... and certainly at a higher altitude but Alaska is just different. I've felt stagnated with climbing, going to the same areas and doing the same types of climbs.... Alaska has opened a door and I don't think I'll be looking back.

Though Dan and Eric had spent three days waiting to get into the Tok'... Marcus and I pretty much showed up and flew into the range. Of course no other pilot than Paul with TAT would have flown that day... fly with that guy or learn to love the Talkeetna nightlife...

The Stumptown basecamp.... only fourty five minutes from pancakes and coffee to ropes and ice screws on the Colton-Leech! Our route starts in the obvious couloir above the camp, left of center, and continues to the butress before climbing ramps up and right to the summit.

The initial couloir was about 2,000' of bulletproof calf-burning ice. I climbed a lot of ice this season but I need to devise a new training method to prepare for the unrelenting front-pointing this feature offered.

Marcus cruising about halfway up the couloir....

The second ramp before the final constriction....

Marcus following the first pitch of the second constrictions...

Upon reaching the top of Count-Zero Buttress we saw a dark mass of clouds coming from the South and a massive lenticular formed around Denali's summit. It seemed like a good time to retreat before the oncoming storm which caught us about halfway down the couloir. Even the initial squall sent a lot of slides down the couloir and made anchors difficult. We we're happy to be down on terra firma and eating pancakes while we waited for another break in the weather.

Sometimes you eat the bar....

2011-05-10T21:17:00.000-07:00

and sometimes the bar eats you....

I had a pretty inglorious end to the ice season this year. Far from the great run I had on the Spring trip last year. This season's finale coincided with the biggest April snowstorm ever seen in the Canadian Rockies. Despite some good sends at Haffner it is hard to justify a long drive for short mixed climbs. Still, I had a few good days this season and the plans are already laid for the following... Not much left to do but enjoy some sunny rock climbing and get honed for when the chilly November air settles in again.

Something Old, Something New

2011-02-23T23:32:00.000-08:00

It certainly didn't get any warmer over the week since Chad and I were last in Canmore... in fact it got a little colder. At times it was a little too cold. Consider our first day where we figured the high to be around -25C. I'm still feeling some lingering frost-nip from leading that day. Despite a somewhat favorable avalanche forecast the recent fatalities and natural releases coupled with the phrase "unsurvivable avalanches" kept us playing it pretty close to the vest. Dodging avalanches is becoming a theme in my trips to the Canadian Rockies this year. Despite, Donn, Chad, Rob and myself rallied for some good climbing. Though I felt the low-hanging fruit was all taken, I managed to climb new routes on three of our five climbing days.

It's already late February and because of a busy March I won't be getting in the traditional early Spring ice climbing trip. Though I'm sure I'll still get another 5-10 days of ice this season I can already feel the motivations subtly shifting from ice to alpine and even rock. I can't say I finished any of the projects I started the season with. However, I feel like I made some progress and given an opportunity am much closer to realizing those dream routes.

Who knows maybe my the Spring will shape up favorably and I can still make a couple forays on the big rigs?

Chad climbing "Moonlight"

Donn leading up "Snowline"

Donn on the first pitch of "Weeping Wall Right"

Rob following second pitch of "Weeping Wall Center"

Chad enjoying a perfect day on the second pitch of "WWR"

Chad cruising "Shagadellic"

Just trying not to lose my "Mojo" on this pumpfest

The Wrong Side of Zero

2011-02-10T17:47:00.000-08:00

And we ain't talking Celsius!

Chad and myself enjoyed a chilly uber-bowl weekend ice climbing up in Canmore this past few-days. We were joined by Marcus and Jeff for a couple days. Scary avy conditions kept us away from the big rigs. For the most part we stayed in the canyons clipping bolts and enjoying some of the best mixed climbing Canada has to offer. Add to that watching an epic failure by Ben Raper Rothlisberger and I'd say it was a pretty good weekend.

Pretty busy day at Bear Spirit our first day. The curtain is starting to fill out, but there are still a lot of moderate mixed lines to tune up on. Day 2 saw Marcus and Jeff at Louise Falls with single digit temps and heavy snowfall while Chad and I scrapped around at Haffner. Chad crushed his first M lead which included a runout on overhanging ice. The temps plummeted even further on our third day, -8F. We got a late start and went for some low hanging fruit at Grotto Canyon. The climbs are short, 12m, but surprisingly fun. With the ice in current condition there was a big of a run out from the last bolt to the first screw... but that just added to the routes. The middle route featured a double steinpull followed by a big reach to a free-hanging ice feature.

Chad running up Pitch 1 of Carlsberg.

Pitch 2 of Carlsberg.

The surprisingly fun mixed climbing in Grotto Canyon.

Beats a Hangover

2011-01-04T11:44:00.000-08:00

Jason and I took advantage of the New Year and the first snap of clear cold weather this winter to climb the North Face of Mt. Index North Peak on the first two days of the year. I didn't even bother to stay up until midnight, trading my ego for sleep. But after two days climbing with perfect weather on a big face, I knew my end of the bargain was much better than a hangover.

We got a fairly late start on the route at ~10am. I anticipated a difficult approach but found that it couldn't be any easier. A variable somewhat sketchy snowpack low on the route caused us some concern but conditions improved as we climbed. There was very little ice. Mostly snice, neve, deep unconsolidated snow, and the occasional half-inch of water ice. The route is actually straightforward but only if you follow the topo. The written description led us astray off unto the East Face where we were forced to climb through a short overhanging snice buldge and do a long rock traverse back into the N Face bowl.

At the end of the first day I found myself off-route and pumping out while hanging onto some branches looking for an egress. Eventually I slung the branches and rapped back down into the N Face bowl. We dug a platform on the NE Rib which was about 2 inches wider than our tent's footprint and slopped away for a couple thousand feet on either side. We stayed tied in that night.

On day two we looked for another exit from the N Face bowl. A shallow snice filled gully led the way to the upper gully and then the North Rib. The North Rib felt pretty wild due to the iced over cracks and snow hidden holds given it a very alpine and definitively runout feel. I'm glad we were able to finish this route. It would have been a good day out at any rate, but now I know the area enough to facilitate for a speed ascent of the entire massif and I know the descent so I can come back for the West Face and know that I can get down in the dark.

The N Face of N Peak follow the line roughly
inside the R skyline and then directly upon
it for the upper third of the peak.

Jason low on the route.

Somewhere on the E Face...ooops.

Jason following...

Still on the E Face...

The North Face Bowl

Heading for the tent, now it is quite dark

Looks like fun, right!?

Jason on the first pitch of the N Rib

Rule #3: Cardio

2010-12-29T12:25:00.000-08:00

Colin B and I had a productive trip into Strobach yesterday. We climbed what we believe is the first complete ascent of Unholy Baptism. The first pitch (~70m) was ice pouring out over the cliff with a thin top out. This pitch took 13cm screws but the ice was rotten and most pro was suspect. The second pitch (~65m) started on some cauliflower and mixed climbing on the right then climbed 20m of sustained and overhanging ice to a small stance and another 30m of vertical ice. We used 12 screws and a few finger-sized cams and blades on this this pitch. Thankfully the second pitch took 16cm screws for most of it's length but again the top-out was thin junky ice that offered little protection. We rappelled from a tree up and right of the climb. Unholy Baptism certainly seem like a fitting name for this climb. It's the steepest and most sustained pitch either of us have climbed and feel that it merits the WI6 grade in current conditions.

Unholy Baptism

First Pitch

Colin embracing the Screaming Barfies

Second Pitch

Colin contemplates the dorp...

Colin nearing the top of second pitch

Approach:Pitches Climbed :: War and Peace:Calvin and Hobbes

2010-12-19T21:19:00.000-08:00

Spent the last two days climbing local ice. The more I explore ice in Washington the more I realize that there is plenty available. The thing is, it is usually very green unstable ice and often quite thin. Washington could really be a great place for an ice climber but we need a different approach. They climb frozen dirt in the Tatras. Since 90% of the routes in the ice guide are in climbable shape a few times a decade why not add some bolts on these rare formers to make hard routes that can be climbed each year?

The other problem with Washington ice is that it is rarely easy. Granted we screwed up the approach a little but it took a 4-hour ski after 3-hours of driving to reach Strobach, then another 2-hour ski and 3-hour drive. That equals 12 hours of skiing/driving for 50m of climbing! I don't know if I'll be doing anymore day trips to Strobach without a sled.

On the other end of the spectrum is the Rap Wall which is about an hour drive and an hour approach from my house. The easiest route is M7 and the hardest is either M11/12. The climbing is techy, steep, and if the chains are covered... scary. Lots of potential for new routes and still a lot of existing ones to send... game on.

Jeff following First on Right

Ghost Dog M11/12

Rap Wall

First on Right... ironically on the left

The Climb on Admiral's Port or Eagle's Left

2010-12-19T20:51:00.000-08:00

It doesn't feel like ice season until I get up to the Canadian Rockies. The vast majority of my climbing days have been in the Canadian Rockies and though it's 700 miles from my house, it always feels like home. BJ and I had a quick trip, that in true Rockies fashion, was relentlessly plagued by high avalanche danger. Despite, we made the best of it climbing a bunch of mixed climbs, heading into the ghost and running up a classic in the Evan Thomas area.

BJ on Bear Spirit

The Business

Upper cirque of THOS

BJ on the crux of Half a Gronk

BJ topping out on THOS

BJ seconding first pitch in Evan Thomas

Ice (+ mixed) Dreams

Starting Gun

2010-12-01T10:46:00.000-08:00

I'm a little embarrassed to say how much time we spent driving from Seattle to Bozeman and how little climbing we did relative to that drive time. Just another page from the book of PNW ice climber...

However, having completed the mental crux of the trip on the drive, the climbing seemed relaxing. We didn't climb anything that noteworthy but went through a good circuit of classics at the Unnamed Wall and earned our G1 merit badge but bailed when the crowds (20+ people) arrived.

It was nice to go to Hyalite with someone who hasn't been there much so I could finally do the classics that my other partners had done climbed too often to be bothered with.

The trip was far too short but weather dictated an abbreviated stay. Avalanche conditions made many climbs a little too exciting for my taste so at the very lease we got the rust off and are ready for the real deal later in the year.

The Fat One (not Jason).

Me climbing an uber-fat Thrill Is Gone. The rack made for good training
weight as the ice covered all the rock protection.

The Good Looking One (The Climb)

Testing the Waters...

You would have to throw yourself off the wall to fall of these hooks...

Mitosis Begins...

The Shortest Distance Between Two Points

2010-10-26T19:23:00.000-07:00

Climbing high on RNWFHD's double crack, one my favorite pitches. For more rad photography check out this: http://blog.garrettgrove.com/

Starting a new career has been a major adjustment. Its the first time in about a decade that something has had a higher priority to me than climbing. I've known for a long time that, while climbing is awesome and I love it, for me, it isn't the only thing. At times, I've flirted with complete vagabond climbing dirtbag status but I always tired of it... quickly.

Even so, changing my priorities initially felt like I was abandoning my chosen path, that I would never reach some of those long term goals I've been working for. It doesn't feel that way anymore. The goals are the same, the path is just going to be different.

Linear movement toward any goal is a rare thing that requires singular focus, motivation... and to be honest some selfishness. I'm looking forward to having something to hang my hat on besides climbing which is so often dictated on the forces of nature.

Despite work taking the driver's seat I have one day of skiing and God willing four days of ice climbing planned over the next five days.

Game on...

Looking For A New Half Dome

2010-09-24T10:34:00.001-07:00

Deja vu: Garrett on the Robbin's Traverse in 2010, Erica in 2004

During the past week I climbed in the Yosemite Valley for the first time in over six-years. I've climbed in the Valley very little, but had one of the more significant climbs (at the time) of my career there. In 2004 Erica and I tried to climb Half Dome RNWF in a day. At the time we were pretty green. Though I had climbed for years, I started leading sport routes in 2002 and plugging gear in 2003. So I had only trad climbed for about a year prior to attempting this route. Erica had been leading gear routes for longer but neither of us were world-beaters.

Long story short, Erica and I approached and fixed the first pitch on day-1 then tried to fix and fire on day-2. We didn't climb fast enough and we found ourselves climbing in the night by pitch 16. We made the Big Sandy ledge on top of pitch 17 and had a forced bivouac. We ran out of water on day-2 and spent a big chunk of day-3 climbing the remaining pitches (7?) before descending back to the base of the face and collapsing. On day-4 we stumbled into Curry Village, pizza, beer, etc. At the time I felt like we could have done better. We went slow when we could have gone faster, we could have started earlier, etc. My impression of the route is that it wasn't that bad, we could have, should have had it.

Six years later I wanted to get back on the route just to see how much easier it would be, to cruise where I had faltered, to measure what I am against what I was.

Garrett and I did the climb much faster. We climbed it valley-to-valley in ~18 hours but could have easily shaved off 5-6 hours (stuck behind parties 2-3 hours, took the longer but easier descent 2 hours, linking different pitches 1 hour, faster movement in daylight 1 hour). While the climb is almost entirely 5.9 or easier, it was still surprisingly heads up. There were head scratching moments figuring out traversing moves or transitions from aid-to-free and gut-busting squeeze chimney sections. Nothing felt too hard, or too scary, or run out etc. But it didn't feel that, easy.

Returning to the scene of one of my career's defining moments wasn't what I expected. Six years ago unable to sleep, I stayed up all night in fear of the coming day. Today I slept, well. The fear was gone... it was just another climb. While I am a much stronger climber today than I was years ago, I wonder in which aspects am I stronger? Obviously I can pull harder moves, I'm smarter, I make more right decisions and less mistakes. Still, I wonder if my head or my heart is not as strong. Six year's later what is my new Half Dome? What climb will put the fear of the unknown back into me and push me to edge of my physical and technical limits?

Perhaps the years have taught me something about my abilities and exposed unknown resources. However, something tells me I'm not challenging myself the way I once did. Perhaps I'm stronger as a climber in every way but poorer in ambition and desire?

I don't know... but I think I need a new Half Dome.

Clips: Climbing the NW Face of Half Dome from Garrett Grove on Vimeo.

Momento mori

2010-09-02T19:26:00.000-07:00

The weather is already turning in the PNW; I can't believe it is already September. Just a quick remembrance of life and, living in the grey north, the sunnier times past...

Andy on Mercy Street, the best 10b lie-back in Squamish (even the Split!)

Andy on pitch one of Rutabaga. The second pitch is a fun stemming problem with a wild finish.

Andy on the (guess it...) Split Pillar.

Another long wait on Rock On...

The kids from VT swing by the neighborhood

Elephantiasis gets zero stars in McClain's book but a couple more in mine

Getting my Crime merit badge...

Anyone else think Joe's Crack is akward?

Stones on or near Pixie Corner.

Awaiting the Dalestrom at Yehiniko Lake in northern B.C.

Pitch four on Dalestrom on Dormouse Peak.

Enjoying the best nightlife the greater Tattoga, B.C. area has to offer

Stikine silhouette

The Night of the Carnivorous Rodents

2010-08-28T16:50:00.000-07:00

Rob and I took advantage of the last few good weather days in August to climb the classic Torment-Forbidden Traverse. It's truly a classic Cascade's mountaineering objective with a long ridge, glacier crossings, steep snow and maybe just a little choss. We climbed the route in two days and had a bivy that, while in a spectacular location, had one severe drawback: carnivorous rodents. I've never seen rodents who would try to eat ANYTHING. They munched on water bottles, sleepings bags, foam pads and packs. We tried to get some sleep but realized after a rodent was crawling in Rob's hair that we were in for a long night. We finished the route in good style but decided to spend one more night in Boston Basin enjoying the excellent weather.

Rob rappelling down the West Ridge of Forbidden Peak.

Looking back on the traverse toward Mt. Torment.

Rob climbing on day two.

A couple hours from the bivy on day one.

Balancing Act

2010-08-17T19:50:00.001-07:00

Colin and I put up a new route, or at least a new version of an old route on Colchuck Balanced Rock this past weekend. We spied some good looking corner and crack systems both above and below the rock scar. However, we weren't sure that there would be cracks in the rock scar or that the rock would be stable enough to climb safely. However we found mostly solid rock detracted only by loose rock left on ledges from the rock fall. While I'm sure it won't be popular and maybe not even repeated, the second pitch was the best crack I've ever done in the alpine. IMO it was as good as the Split Pillar but in a less impressive position. I would definitely run up the first couple pitches again if I were in the area.

Route Topo

Picture with route overlay

Climbing slab on fourth pitch.

Pulling through the roof on the third pitch.

Colin's hand a little torn up...

The Short Story

2010-08-09T16:18:00.001-07:00

This story has a short version and a long version. The short version is that Blake and I were awarded the AAC’s McNeill-Nott Grant and a grant from the Mazamas. Additionally as the youngster, Blake received the Mountain Fellowship grant from the AAC to help him out.Collectively we were pitching the idea of climbing the North Ridge of Mt. Ambition which is a proud snow and rock ridge involving over a mile and 5,000 ft. of climbing to accomplish. We covered roughly a third to a half of this terrain on “sub Fisher Towers quality rock” before reaching a decision point. To continue would mean complete commitment with little or no opportunity to escape other than by finishing the route. Turning around here would be simple enough but we wanted that ridge. In the end we decided to bail. We very well may have been able to climb the ridge despite the bad rock as it didn’t appear that technically difficult. However didn’t break a hold and take a bad fall or trundle large blocks onto the belay we decided that we would essentially be soloing due to consistently horrible rock quality. Receiving funding for a climb always adds the element of potentially letting your supporters down by not finishing a climb. However having had to descend or short section of that ridge reinforced our decision. For Blake and me, given the conditions it wasn’t worth it.

Deciding against Mt. Ambition was not the end of the trip. Over the course of the remaining week we established two first ascents in the area on Mt. Endeavor and Doormouse Peak. We didn’t put up anything very technical but it was consistently an adventure. If I had to sum up the climbing and challenges we faced I would say that it cannot be defined by its technical grades but rather by the sum of its parts.

The route we didn't climb: Mt. Ambition's North Ridge. We reached the snowfield at the distinctive pyramid (on the right skyline), right where the climbing got committing.

The route we climbed instead: Mt. Endeavor roughly up the ridge on the left skyline.

Another route we climbed: the left skyline on Doormouse Peak.

The Long Story: Part I

2010-08-09T16:17:00.000-07:00

The Long Story

Part I

The peaks around the Scud Glacier (which include Mt. Ambition) lie on the eastern side of the Stikine region.The Stikine region is essentially as far north as Juneau, Alaska. The Scud Glacier is just inside the British Columbia border. From higher points in the area you can clearly see the Devil’s Thumb, Mt. Burkett and the Burkett Needle nearer the ocean. The weather in this area is surprisingly good and much drier than the aforementioned peaks.

It took Blake and myself two days from Washington to Tattoga, B.C. The first order of business was to find Dale our bush pilot. After signing some paperwork Dale’s first comment was “when is it you guys are coming out again?” Not the most reassuring comment from our pilot, who had just arranged that date and who would shortly be dropping us 50-miles from the nearest human being.

The following morning we arrived at the dock on-time only to find Dale frantic because he had another flight later that day. We grabbed our packs tossed them in the plane and promptly took off. No need for any safety information. Later in the flight Dale gestured to Blake to tie a rope around his waist when preparing to toss a bag out of the 2x2 ft. bomb hatch. Safety was obviously a priority.

What I vividly remember is placing my boots in the hatch before taking off. What I know is that those boots were present at the dock and had vanished when we landed. Somewhere, somehow we arrived without my boots and one trekking pole short. I felt angry and sick. I must have forgot to put the boots in the plane. How would I be able to climb with the crappy pair of tennis shoes I was wearing? Dale said that he might be coming back to the lake with another group later that week. If the boots were at the dock and if he came back he would leave them on the beach. There was nothing to do but try to climb. The money had been spent, we were in the wilderness and I needed to deal with this problem.

Regardless of the problem with the boots (or lack therefore of) we needed to get up to our food cache. We had dropped a dry bag full of our food for the next two weeks onto a dry glacier. To reach the glacier we waded, bushwalked and thrutched our way 10 miles up the Quattrin River Valley. The bag landed on a flat, wide open glacier but it still took us a couple hours to find it. Thankfully I took a video of the airdrop that gave us an idea of where the bag may have landed. Unthankfully our dry bag had landed on bare ice and rocks and exploded.Blake (who tossed the bag) is obviously a better carpet bomber than dive bomber. The largest piece of remaining dry bag was about 18 inches by 4 inches. Inside the dry bag we wrapped everything in tyvek which was ripped into two pieces. The glacier was a graveyard off ramen noodles, peanut butter, granola bars, beef jerky and all the remnant of our once proud food supply no reduced to meager rations. Like an Easter egg hunt we spent hours salvaging what we could and collecting every piece of trash. We spent an hour or so on a piton and stopper hunt finding them in small crevasses and up to 100 ft. from the initial impact zone.

It was only our first day and we had only faced difficulties. My boots were M.I.A., we’d lost about a third of our food, Blake’s camera was dying from an unsuccessful river crossing. Things could only get better… right?

Our food "cache" marinating on the glacier.

Shadow hikers...

Blake two steps in front of me and almost hidden. Luckily Washingtonians are 5.14 bushwackers...

Sometimes its just easier to walk in the water...

About 10 seconds before I realized I had no climbing boots.

Part II

2010-08-09T16:16:00.000-07:00

Part II

We established a base camp on the Scud Glacier within striking distance of any of the nearby peaks. The first order of business was figuring out how I would be able to climb steep ice with tennis shoes and newmatic crampons. The lid of Blake’s CiloGear pack had been destroyed in the airdrop. Using the fabric from that lid, two bottles of seam grip and duct tape we tried to make the shoes more water proof. From the plastic back pad of Blake’s pack I cut two rigid insoles to help stiffen up the shoes. The addition of a strap across the midsection of the crampon helped shore up their stability. Thus the Omnishoes were created. As if crafted by Prometheus himself they actually did okay. I led an icefall with some short steep bulges and several sections of front pointing without any difficulties other than serious calf strain.

After drying our shoes out for a day we attempted the North Ridge of Mt. Ambition. We left at 2:30 a.m. and quickly climbed through an icefall to a col between Mt. Ambition’s North Ridge and Mt. Endeavor’s South Ridge. The rock in the col was solid and apparently granitic. The “rock” on the ridge was loose and sand-like. Blake led through two pitches up to a grade of probably 5.8 or 5.9. I don’t think I pulled on a single hold or even took a breath while following those pitches. The experience has redefined all the “choss-aineering” that I’ve previously done.This rock put it all to shame. Blake described it as “sub Fisher Towers quality.”

We continued to climb on the ridge until the base of a snowfield below a distinct pyramid. We had remained optimistic that perhaps the rock would get better. We knew that once we got on the pyramid retreat would be hard or impossible. We judged that the climb would probably go, but it would get harder not easier. Neither one of us wanted to take the risks that the climb would entail.

Deciding to turn around is never easy, but it is always harder when you’ve been given money and support to attempt a climb. That is an unfortunate aspect of getting a grant. In the end we decided that we would honor the organizations more by making what we deemed to be the “right” choice (for us given our experience, perceptions, the conditions etc.) than to climb in a style not our own because we had been shown so much support. For myself I know it was the right decision and I am not second-guessing it.

Since we got such an early start on our climb we were able to reverse the route back to the col and continue on to climb the South Ridge of Mt. Endeavor. The comparison of rock between Mt. Endeavor and Mt. Ambition was night and day. Though we didn’t find splitter rock, we found rock that protected okay and that we could pull on. The route though not technically difficult was aesthetic and engaging. From the Scud Glacier the route was about 5,000 ft. long and seemed like climbing Mt. Stuart’s North Ridge stacked on the Nisqually Icefall… pretty cool.

On the summit we found the original summit register, unsigned since 1967. We had logged the second ascent of Mt. Endeavor. We’re calling the route Arete sans Chaussures (Bootless Arete) D 5.6 5000’ (still need to confirm this with GPS waypoints).

The summit was truly only half-way done on this climb. We ended up descending the SE Ridge (the line of the first ascent) in hopes that it would be easy and avoid the objective hazards of an icefall baking in the afternoon sun. Initially the ridge was pretty straightforward mostly fourth class with generally good rock. Farther from the summit the glacier slopped further and further away from the ridge crest, the rock became looser and more difficult. I convinced Blake that we should abandon the ridge and get on the snow. In retrospect this might have been a poor decision because the ridge might have been easy enough to down climb but that’s water under the bridge at this point. We had a tough descent which involved about a half-dozen double rope rappels with v-threads and poor rock with plenty of down climbing mixed in. Once we hit the snow, we still had a few thousand feet to drop before we stumbled into camp 20 hours after we started.

The only entry was from 1967 and was still perfectly preserved.

Flaking the rope for an easier section with Mt. Ambition in the background.

Low on Mt. Ambition's North Ridge.

The first pitch of Mt. Ambition's North Ridge

Omnishoes: 1 part Nike running shoes, 2 parts seam grip, 1 part duct tape, 1 part CiloGear Pack

There are worst places to spend a rest day.

Blake hiking into base camp. We camped below the ridge on the right side of the picture.

Part III

2010-08-09T16:15:00.000-07:00

Part III

Our descent of Mt. Endeavor had required about 70 ft. of tat and left us with a whole 2 ft. of tat for any additional climbing. We wanted to climb something that had never been climbed before and picked and asthetic looking summit. Unfortunately we didn’t remember that it had been climbed by a group in 2003 and were disappointed by a cairn on the summit.

We climbed the West Ridge of Doormouse Peak and found generally good rock. The first four pitches of the West Ridge were on generally solid shattered granite up to 5.9. We gained the ridge crest and found continuous fourth and mid-fifth class climbing to the summit. Again we descended the line of the first ascent, the East Ridge to the glacier. In honor of our bush pilot, who really deserves to be memorialized we named the route Dalestrom D 5.9 2000 ft.

The last five days of our trip we were forced to reduce our rations to a single pack of oatmeal, five granola bars and half a freeze-dry dinner per person per day. In an effort to maximize food stores we boiled sweedish fish that had soaked and bloated on the glacier into a delish stew.Oatmeal was rounded out to become oatmeal plus with the addition of crumbs found in stuff sacks. Why just brew one cup of coffee with ground when you can brew 10?

After climbing two new routes we had no tat or food. Climbing any more routes would mean we need to cut up our ropes or slings. Regardless we were so hungry we really didn’t need to spend any calories doing anything but surviving. We decided to come out one day early. We spent a warm night next to a campfire on a lake in northern British Columbia, got picked up early the next morning and spent the next couple days supplementing our lost calories.

It is really hard to explain what this trip was like. The climbs don’t look all that impressive from a technical standpoint mainly because technically they aren’t hard. But given all the other problems: the omnishoes, the exploded food cache, the loose rock, the bushwacking, etc. these climbs were challenging for different reasons. The only way I can really explain it is to say it was an adventure.

Campfire and twilight on our final night.

Descending the East Ridge of Doormouse

Summit of Doormouse

Near the summit of Doormouse

Finally some good rock....

Blake starting the first pitch of the Dalestrom

It's a Long Story

2010-06-23T09:30:00.000-07:00

After last summer's trip to Peru the Mazamas asked me to write an article for their annual publication. Since that is only distributed to members and its free I thought I might reproduce that article here. But beware, it is a long story.

Established routes on Pukaraju as of July 2009.

Climbing loose blocks, trying to reach snow in Caraz II's central couloir.

Caraz II's central couloir: obvious, attractive and unclimbed.

Andean Alpinism: Exploring New Routes in Peru’s Cordillera Blanca

by Nathan Farr

After sitting for 2 hours in the icy wind coming off Laguna Querococha, a dilapidated Volkswagen bug pulls off the empty dirt road. I wonder what they’re thinking as we try to fit our two loaded backpacks and our combined 370 lbs of unwashed bodies into the back seat of a vehicle already laden with two passengers and their luggage.

A 4-week climbing trip to Peru’s Cordillera Blanca sounds like a long outing. However, if there is just one thing that my three expeditions have taught me about Peru and expedition climbing, it is to expect the unexpected. These hard-learned lessons were confirmed as Marcus and I endured two national transportation strikes, high-altitude pulmonary edema and the ubiquitous gastrointestinal illnesses one must endure while traveling in the developing[-]world. With the help of the Mazamas and the American Alpine Club, Marcus and I were able to spend July 2009 attempting two new routes in the Cordillera Blanca. Despite the difficulties we encountered, we were lucky enough to establish one first ascent, on Pukaraju.

We began by drafting our grant proposal for the unclimbed and unattempted central couloir on the east face of Caraz II. Three couloirs split the east face of this peak. The right and left couloirs had been climbed in 1986 and 1997 respectively. This face had received relatively little attention, especially compared to its more famous neighbors, Artesonraju and Chacraraju. In 2004, renewed interest and favorable conditions resulted in the establishment of two new routes on the east face. A French team established a direct finish to the left couloir, Salida Directa de Los Gordes (ED1 2300 ft., 90-95 degrees, 6a, A2). An Australian team climbed a new route, the Australian Route (ED1 2300 ft., W3, V+, A2), which ascended the right couloir but finished on mixed ground in the center of the face. Speculation had it that the central couloir would yield thin ice and mixed climbing. Apparently the most difficult portion of the route would be finding a direct line through the final granite headwall. This year a very snowy Andean summer and fall (anecdotally the snowiest in the past 30-years) presented climbers with unusual conditions. Glaciers that usually offered easy, yet circuitous, travel across neve held deep unconsolidated snow. South-facing walls known for excellent ice climbing by mid- to late July remained snow-laden late into the season. This year Caraz II’s thin ice and steep summit headwall would be the least of its problems.

After arriving in Lima in early July, we barely beat a national transportation strike, reaching the Andes mere hours before all travel halted. Most climbs in the Cordillera Blanca and the nearby Cordillera Huayhuash range are based out of the city of Huaraz. This town has been described as South America’s Chamonix. Much of the range, including the Himalayan-like Huascaran massif, is clearly visible from town. Huaraz, at around 10,000 ft, is one of the lowest cities in the area. Though the transportation strike meant we would not be able to leave the city for the mountains as soon as planned, we were at least beginning to acclimatize. Our plan was to take a couple weeks of supplies into the Paron valley. Once there, we would explore the initial section of the central couloir and use nearby peaks for acclimatization. With acclimatization complete we would be ready to attempt Caraz II and know something about its nature beforehand.

The narrow Paron valley is surrounded by 20,000 ft peaks on three sides. These stunning peaks are reflected upon the still, teal water of Laguna Paron. It is a relatively remote valley; no one lives in the valley itself and very few tourists visit the area. Climbers can be found in the area most days but their attentions are almost always focused on the southwest face of Artesonraju. The other mountains around the valley go years between ascents. I walked through the Paron valley in 2003 when I climbed the south arête of Artesonraju. At the time, I didn’t notice Caraz II. I learned about the face after reading reports from 2004’s first ascents. I was surprised to learn that the obvious central couloir had not been climbed. After more digging I discovered that this feature had been considered for a try by more than one alpinist, but had not yet been attempted. Those alpinists speculated that it would be relatively straightforward but would involve several thousand ft of thin ice and mixed climbing.

On the same day the transportation strike lifted, we were in a taxi negotiating the dirt road that climbed into the Paron valley. We set up base camp in a small forest above Laguna Paron. Over the next several days we hiked progressively higher and established an advanced base camp a few hundred ft below the glacier. Though we had less than 2,000 ft from our advanced camp to the base of the route, the year’s significant snow proved a serious obstacle. We believed that we would be able to reach the base of the route with one day’s effort. On our first foray onto the glacier we worked for an entire day with hip-deep snow, gaining only half of the needed elevation. These efforts were mostly wasted by a storm that forced us into the tent and deposited new snow over our hard-earned boot-pack. After the storm we had another full day of effort on the glacier. We gained more elevation, but were unable to reach the route’s base. We hadn’t carried enough food to our advanced camp for the extra half-week that this difficult glacier travel and weather forced. I descended back to our food cache at base camp. The descent was well-timed as I encountered a group of Canadians who were eager to lighten their packs for the walk out. Their cheese, butter, tuna and mayo certainly helped round out the dry pasta from our cache.

With our food stores re-supplied, we were positive that the route could be reached in a single day. We planned to cross the glacier, explore the route’s initial pitches and begin our ascent the following morning. At mid-day we had finally reached the couloir. Contrary to typical conditions, there was no ice or snow on the initial portion of the central couloir; it could only be reached via several pitches of loose steep granite. We spotted two possible routes. The first was up a difficult snow and mixed feature that may have brought us back left and into the couloir. We attempted this route but quickly realized it would require too much traversing on unknown terrain. Next we explored a shallow corner leading toward a right-trending ramp. An hour later I had knocked a half-ton of rock loose while only climbing 30 ft from the belay. In these conditions we needed a rotary drill to reach the couloir’s ice. Worse than that, Marcus had developed activity intolerance, productive cough, and periodic breathing; in other words, he had high altitude pulmonary edema.

Two days later we had shuttled 300 lbs of gear over 10 miles and 6,000 ft of elevation. We had developed altitude sickness, had yet to see any real climbing, and realized that a year’s worth of preparation had been squandered.

Back in Huaraz we tried to regroup. The Cordillera Blanca was still shrouded in a thick layer of snow. More routes than usual were not being climbed. We decided to attempt a route on Nevada Churup that is normally dry and thus out of condition. This year’s poor weather had laid down enough snow to make this route climbable. The alarm clock went off, but Montezuma was getting his revenge. The illness narrowed our already quite-limited time.

The unseasonable weather had prevented us from attempting icy south-facing routes we had initially desired. We understood that this was a strange season and we would need to try a different kind of route if we wanted to have any success. Fortuitously, a friend mentioned that there was an obscure peak named Pukaraju which was rumored to have some ice lines. We visited the Casa de Guias (the Peruvian climbing guide’s headquarters) and scoured the Libro Rojo (a guidebook containing the descriptions of all new routes). We found several vague pencil-drawn maps indicating the half-dozen or so routes which had been climbed on Pukaraju. A friend who had been in the vicinity doing the research for a university study was able to fill in some blanks. His recent photograph encouraged us to spend our remaining time attempting this inconspicuous peak.

Though easily visible from the road, Pukaraju is an obscure peak. With so little information available about the climbs in the area, we weren’t even entirely sure how to get there. Our friends had told us that it should be easy to reach Pukaraju from Laguna Querococha. The lake is a popular site for tourists heading to the ruins at nearby Chavin. Scrub grass and open fields led to a river and a tight rocky canyon. Gaining elevation quickly though the canyon, we found a high valley that led directly to an ancient moraine below Pukaraju.

Nearing the mountain, the routes that we found scribbled into the Libro Rojo appeared on the face. It was easy to see the major lines such as Hot Route, which took a weakness directly to the summit, or La Princessa de Petit Pois, which headed for a notch to the climbers’ right of the summit. As we deciphered these lines we became aware of some potential weaknesses that had yet to see an ascent. Though the face was holding ice, it was evident that rock would need to be climbed. Though much of the Cordillera Blanca is composed of solid granite, Pukaraju is not. We had yet to learn that lesson.

Marcus’s plane took off in just 4 days. That left us enough time to attempt our route and return to Huaraz for the Fiestas Patrias festival and the Tamboraju, a local discotech that is reputably the most difficult summit in Peru!

When the alarm went off at midnight we realized that the unseasonably snowy weather had hung around even late into July. It was snowing consistently. Thankfully we had a pot of fresh-ground coffee that provided all the motivation we needed and we headed out into the night. It continued snowing as we neared the face. Thankfully we were able to identify enough landmarks to locate La Princessa de Petit Pois, our intended line. On the way to the route we noticed ice pouring out of a couloir several hundred yards to the right. We lingered at its base. We knew this feature had not been completed. We also knew that we could climb La Princessa de Petit Pois. If we attempted a new route that we were unable to complete, that could very well mean that we would return home without any successful climbs. Despite this dreaded possibility, we headed for the ice and the unknown.

The gods of rock-paper-scissors decided that Marcus should lead the first pitch. I have to admit that I was pretty happy following that pitch as it ended up being composed of steep thin fragile ice with sparse protection and went on forever (more than 200 ft). As I followed the first pitch I found ice that would give away beneath my feet, forcing upward progress whether I was ready or not. The steep initial ice section brought us into a long couloir feature that we would follow all the way to the ridge crest. We believed the couloir would be mostly snow and neve that we could cover quickly. It was actually composed of thin ice and mixed ground with sustained technical climbing. Even the sections that were no steeper than 60 degrees proved thought-provoking and tiring. There was very little protection. We took every opportunity to belay.

Even though we stopped at the first chance to belay, no pitch was shorter than 150 ft. Swapping leads for several pitches brought us to another steep section. We had been able to see this section from the ground and believed it would be the most difficult of the climb. There was very little ice in this section and even less protection. I followed the left side of the couloir, trending right only when difficulties forced me there. The rock in this section was loose and soft. The higher I got in the feature the more I had to navigate roof features that needed to be climbed directly. I placed a small nest of protection and attempted to pull the most difficult bulge. As I hooked my picks over rock edges and worked right, I noticed that the bulge was very loose and that I was fully committed. Without falling onto a full pitch of poor protection, I knew that I couldn’t reverse what I had just climbed. The rock seemed to get looser and steeper as I ascended. I pulled on chock-stones and crack features that could have barely withstood the wind. Blocks started to fall as I dug for protection and tool placements. Our ropes suffered the brunt of at least a couple of falling blocks and got core-shot (sorry, Marcus). Eventually I worked past that feature and established a mediocre hanging belay.

Because the area around the hanging belay was so steep and the belay suspect, it was easier to tie Marcus off and to continue leading on the following pitch. The next pitch was as difficult but less steep. Unfortunately there was also less protection. I continued following the left side of the couloir but was forced right by a roof feature. My protection was already several body lengths away as I hooked small rock edges and placed my front-points against the friable ice. I became increasingly aware of this precarious situation as the protection became increasingly distant. A fall was no longer acceptable. A powerful move through the roof and into a solid crack feature… and finally I completed the pitch. Along with the first pitch, the king-maker, as we dubbed these two higher pitches, proved to be the hardest section of our route. We followed the couloir for several more pitches. The climbing continued to be difficult but without the run-out nature of the earlier pitches.

We reached the ridge crest in the late afternoon. As previous parties had typically descended their route of ascent, there was no well-established line of descent. After dealing with bad rock and poor protection for the entirety of our climb, we knew we didn’t want to descend our route. We found a few tattered slings on the ridge crest and decided to descend one couloir to the right of our ascent route. The poor protection continued; we accepted that we would leave any or all of the rack to get off this climb. Despite our willingness to abandon gear, the rappel stations were quite marginal. Our third rappel was off a single stopper. Then night fell. Marcus, outweighing me by 50 lbs, rappelled first. I watched as his headlamp bounced down the couloir, then disappeared. Fifteen minutes went by, then a half-hour. Was he off-rappel? No, the rope was still weighted. Was he hurt? “Marcus!” No reply. Finally after nearly an hour's wait… “off-rappel!” The station I found was not entirely awe-inspiring, but after an hour of effort it was clearly the best we could do.

The ropes pulled cleanly and once again I watched as the beam of Marcus’s headlamp reflected down the couloir. I wasn’t looking forward to another chilling wait while a rappel station was established. After just a few minutes Marcus shouted up, “off rappel.” It was too quick. Had we reached a dead-end? As I rappelled into the darkness, not knowing if we were 50 ft from the ground or 500, I caught a glimmer from my headlamp. Slowly I realized that I was looking at a bolt: a single 3/8” bolt with a shiny hanger. It was the first trustworthy piece of protection I had seen that day. After all the work up to that point, we clipped a single carabiner into the bolt and rappelled into the black. The headlamp beam reverberated against the wall. It bounced five or six times, and then suddenly a solid white mass appeared. We had reached the ground.

Nothing had gone as expected on this trip. The mountain that we had planned and trained for over a year’s period of time to climb was out of condition. The other prominent routes remained elusive as the year’s heavy snowfall persisted. At times even illness and political unrest barred our attempts. The unforeseen limitations and circumstances of this trip made it a true adventure. Although we had less success than we had dreamed of, 2 days later, while sitting on a deserted road beneath Pukaraju, it no longer mattered.

The crowded Volkswagen bug maneuvered through the rugged pot-holed road as the light turned pink on the Cordillera Blanca. Discotechs were filled with Huaraciños celebrating Fiestas Patrias. For myself, I could only think about the summits reached and those yet to be climbed.

We named our route Juegos de los Reyes (Game of Kings). I know that both Marcus and I believe alpinism is truly the game of kings. At the same time we have also come to terms with the fact that few people, perhaps even ourselves, will understand why we are driven to endure so much sacrifice just to enjoy a few fleeting moments. It is climbs like Juegos de los Reyes which justify the costs endured. I am grateful for organizations like the Mazamas and the American Alpine Club, which help climbers accomplish their dreams, even if they are merely games.

Moriarty meets Lex Luther

2010-03-27T21:27:00.000-07:00

Its been two years and probably a half-dozen trips that Nemesis has been #1 on my ticklist. Finally I had an avalanche forcast, weather, and lack of other parties that allowed me to get on this climb. It is a fantastic climb, but was actually quite a bit less impressive than I had heard. FWIW The Sorcerer or any other big climb is as good as Nemesis... maybe better.

Keith linking the first and second pitch into a 72m pitch.

Chad and Keith topping out pitch 4.

Overview of the Nemesis. We climbed it in two pitches the first was 72m and the second was 69m.

The Iceman Cometh...

2010-03-27T21:02:00.000-07:00

I did the last of the big ice routes in the Ghost by climbing Hydrophobia a few weeks ago. It's a pretty awesome and sustained climb. It's steep the whole way and there isn't a ledge in sight. Glad to have done it... but really looking forward to getting back on its anemic friend to the right next year...

Hydrophobia (L) and Cryophobia (R)

Colin reaching the top of the first pitch.

Second pitch, second hanging ice belay.

Colin at the top of pitch 2.

Me climbing the first pitch.

Me on the final pitch.

Quick high steps... trying to keep the boots dry.

A rest day in Evan Thomas Creek... finding suprisingly solid plastic ice in 50 degree temps.

Play Misty for Me

2010-03-27T20:39:00.000-07:00

This trip marked the beginning of my post-nursing school, post-NCLEX life. A short tune-up day at Haffer Creek prepared us for a week of spring ice climbing in the Canadian Rockies.

Colin takes flight.

A dangeous avalanche forcast forced Colin and myself to climb in more protected venues. As luck would have it we were the the only party on the Weeping Wall on a beautiful day. We managed to nab the both the lower and upper weeping wall climbing six 60-70m pitches of wi5-6 terrain. An awesome day to open up the spring trip.

The Weeping Wall

Colin somewhere on the Upper Weeping Wall.

Lower Weeping Wall.

About to punch it through 100ft of rotten ice.

Approaching the Upper Weeping Wall.

Second pitch of Upper Weeping Wall.

Dealing with slush and crazy cauliflowers on the final pitch of the Upper Weeping Wall.

Day 2 and the trip is already a success.

The Miracle on Snice

2010-03-05T08:42:00.000-08:00

More fun times on I-Rock. We climbed an interesting line that worked itself into the left skylight (about 100 feet left of the Skylight Direct route). We found much more ice on the N Face than in December. There was a half-pitch of Wi4 snice to exit the face... pretty exciting. With all the rime and ice on the face there are many opportunities to steeper and possibly new lines on I-Rock. It's hard to say exactly what has been climbed on I-Rock, for all we know we established a new line. Regardless, I-Rock's N Face is an absolute playground with many 2-4 pitch mixed lines waiting to be climbed.

Me following the second pitch (climbing with two seconds is kinda fun!)

Dan leads first pitch. He had just knocked a microwave size rock loose, it practically rolled to Yocum Ridge!

Dan exiting the lie-back chimney section. It was pretty burly climbing, certainly hard M5.

Dan climbing the snice exit.

Colin starting up the first pitch.

Colin takes off on the second pitch.

Schwag

2010-02-20T21:48:00.000-08:00

I had an opportunity to workout at my first crossfit gym this past summer in Peru. My friend Jaime had started Crossfit Peru after hearing about crossfit from another friend, Andy on our Peru trip a few years back. After running into Jaime in Huaraz we made plans for a guest visit at his gym in Lima for a few weeks from then. Getting directions from people on the street for a crossfit gym gets you even more weird looks than it would in the states. Eventually I found it... and Jaime's WOD slayed me. After six weeks of alpine climbing heavy power cleans left me sore for a week.

Anyhow, Jaime had a competition for getting weird reactions from people by doing burpees in strange spots.

So...

Winners get some Crossfit Peru t-shirts. So, these pictures are for Jaime:

My first 2K row... so brutal... so awesome. Thankfully I had the "Fight Club" soundtrack on my IPOD.

Drunk Little League Dads

2010-02-03T07:35:00.000-08:00

Just when I thought nursing school couldn't throw me any more curveballs they hock a loogee and beam me with a four-seam fastball. Essentialy what should have been a rad five-day climbing trip ended up being a 2.5 day climbing trip with a lack of sleep and lot of stress on either side. Regardless Chad and I did get to climb a couple classics. But like any junkie, I just can't get enough.

It's been a rough year to be an ice climber in the NW. Which by NW standards means you might as well sell your gear and take up kayaking. Reason #576 of why I'm leaving the NW.

Chad topping out on Bourgeau Left

Overview of Bourgeau Left

Bourgeau is actually a pretty big climb with three rope stretching 70m pitches. After climbing it, I can see why it is many people's favorite Wi5 in the range. Also, due to its popularity I probably won't be on it again.

Roof on Suffer Machine

I couldn't let stable avalanche conditions pass me by without getting on something big. We decided to head to Nemesis but got scooped by Yamnuska. Fortunately I had the foresight to pack the rack as well. This gave us the option of getting on Suffer Machine instead. I have a habit of building up some climbs in my mind and they never seem to be as big and intimidating as I've imagined. That being said, Suffer Machine is pretty freaking cool, even if it is quite a bit tamer than I would have thought.

Suffer Machine starts on the right side of the ice and traverses in left just above the hanger. Teddy Bear's Picnic takes the direct line at just one grade harder.

Suffer Machine goes free at M7. Unfortunately the crux is missing three hangers and those that remain wouldn't do a fantastic job of preventing injury in the event of a fall. Even so, if you're solid at the grade I think the roof would be hard and heady but would go. After the roof the climbing is just fantastic. The ice had receded so that I needed to tension traverse and then gun it 40 ft. unprotected to the belay. After that its nothing but steep plastic ice.

Thankfully I have a post-NCLEX, post-nursing school Canadian Rockies trip coming up shortly. I'm hoping that six months of climbing and three expeditions can wipe away the memory of nursing school. Time to get out there and take some cuts.

The Times are Changing

2009-12-31T11:43:00.000-08:00

The end of a one month vacation is coming painfully close... I'll be back at school at 7 a.m. Monday morning (p.s. WTF!?) and Marcus begins a 6-month 40 hour/week stint on Thursday. Things were definately going to change...

BJ, Marcus and I just took a quick trip out to Bozeman. Conditions were supposed to be great and it had been years since any of us had been to Hyalite Canyon. A little different experience with different climbs on the ticklist than in years' past. We had to deal with some bad avy conditions and the memories of a bad accident that happened a few weeks back. Despite this we got some good climbs in, even if none of them happened to be what we hoped to climb.

Day 1: Went to climb The Climb Above Dribbles... bad snow and a little confusion meant it was just a warm up day.

Day 2: Marcus nabs the last of the low lying fruit with Cleopatra's Needle.

Day 3: Bad snow aborts our attempt on the real prize, end up climbing Bobo Like and Killer Piller not to shabby for a check-down day.

Day 4: Dielectric Breakdown and I cut my teeth, literally, on some Bozeman mixed.

Not the housekeeper's best friends...

BJ getting his first lead of the season on Silken.

If you know BJ you shouldn't be suprised, it was only -15F when we left the car...

Marcus crossing Cleopatra's Needle off the ticklist. It was the only plastic ice in the valley...

Killer Piller.

Marcus trying not to throw stones on the glassy Dielectric Breakdown.

Iceahoy!

2009-12-16T09:30:00.000-08:00

Weather cooled off just in time for some scrappy ice in the NE. After a disappointing first trip back east my ratio of suffering to climbing has been steadily improving. Got on 3 pitches the first trip then sent the Black Dike among a few other climbs during the second trip. This trip I climbed over 20 pitches and all but one day.
The climbs were just starting to come in, so we focused on scrappy routes at Smuggler's Notch. We ended up getting the seasons first ascents of classic routes like Poster Child and Ragnarock. After three days climbing in the notch and one pirate party induced rest day, we got on a couple routes at Lake Willoughby. Lake Willoughby is Vermont's answer to Canada. If you are going climbing in the NE go here!

Andrew is "The Poster Child" Wi4 M4

Scrappy conditions putting the "rock" in Ragnarock Wi4+ or M6

Approaching the birthing canal on ENT gully... so cold climbed with Das Parkas on.

Andrew following the mega-classic 20- Gully.

Float Like a Butterfly at Lake Willoughby: Vermont's answer to the Weeping Wall.

Teamwork: Usually I have a climbing partner that is a stick clip, this time I had to use my climbing partner as a stick clip.

Ice in the Gorge, me in Vermont

2009-12-16T08:24:00.000-08:00

Rodney getting first sticks on Cape Horn Upper Tier Left.

I may have gotten the first pitch of ice in this year's Gorge freeze, but it wasn't the last. A lot of cool lines got climbed, including a couple I had my eye on. As per usual, the Gorge freeze (all 5-days of it) coincided with my trip to Vermont. Now that I'm back its raining at 8,000 ft., so that's great. I guess its time to go to the gym and dream about living someplace drier and colder next year.

Are You Ready to (I) Rock?

2009-12-04T08:30:00.000-08:00

With a good weather forcast and no work until 615 on Thursday, I knew I needed to get up on Hood and get some climbing in. Everyone was busy that day. Thankfully, I got a hold of Colin and he was game to play hooky and go out. It was pretty much a perfect day with a full-moon, no wind, cold temps, and cloud-free sky. We made great time up to I-Saddle and were climbing by 8:30 a.m. after leaving the parking lot at 6 a.m.

I-Rock's east wall was completely bare. We had heard that stuff on the other side (NW?) was fun and not often climbed. With conditions on the front side, we really had no choice but to drop off I-Saddle and find something there. We picked the most obvious line/weakness on the face.

Our first belay was pretty marginal with a picket and two marginal pins. Mentally I was preparing myself for the entire climb to have poor protection. Nothing could have been farther from the truth. I found solid protection (including ice screws!) the entire way up the climb. There wasn't a lot of ice on route, but almost every tool placement was on ice with the occasional pick torque, edge, or hook. It was moderate, fun and in great shape. Honestly a top-5 alpine-mixed day all-time.

I had Colin take a picture of this screw just to prove we actually placed it.

Pitch 2. Awesome dihedrals that were ice up and actually a little burly. Thankfully perfect protection abounded.

Looking down the second pitch from the Skylight. There was a big 3/8" bolt just below this. Maybe this is Wayne Wallace's route North Skylight Direct (or something like that). There was a good #2 camalot-sized crack next to the bolt, but don't get me wrong, I clipped the bolt.

Colin pulling the final move into the Skylight. This actually wasn't a posed shot. The climbing was that good.

Thanksgiving Left-overs

2009-12-01T10:28:00.000-08:00

This was our second trip to the Canadian Rockies in two-weeks. This November we've put enough miles on Marcus' rig that it needed a oil change and a tire rotation. At least we've knocked off the rust, got on some proud routes and came home ready for more.

Donnie and Sue met us in the parking lot at 5 a.m., and car-pooled with us into the Ghost. They were headed for This House of Sky and we attempting Cryophobia. If you have the right vehicle you can drive in via the Waiporous Creek and reach the climb in just 30 min. Without the requisite monster truck, you have to walk in via Johnson Lakes and the Ghost River Valley. Though the approach is straight-forward, it is 3 hrs long with 2.5 hrs of bushwacking. Remind me why I don't do something easier like skiing?

We finally rounded the ridge and saw this:

The Hydrophobia cirque is pretty incredible. I want to get back there either later this year or in the Spring for some plastic-ice climbing. Hydrophobia is the, ahem, obvious feature on the left. Cryphobia climbs rock that connects the discontinous ice features to the right. I took the first pitch which meant I would also get the crux. Marcus got the second pitch which meant he would climb two M7+ pitches.

Marcus gunning through the roof on the second pitch.

Yep, it is that good...

We didn't get the send, but we did get close to half-way up the route before pulling the plug. On the bright-side we know what areas need work. We have every intention of training hard and getting on this route again.

We didn't get back to Canmore until 9 p.m. After 6 hrs of walking (as well as some hard climbing) we didn't feel like waking up early again. We opted for the B-shift and started up for Guinness Gully + Stout at 11:30 a.m. It ended up being perfect timing as the party ahead of us was rapping the final-pitch as we started climbing it. We did something like 6 pitches of climbing in an easy afternoon that got us back in time for the end of Sunday Night Football.

Marcus on the first pitch of Guiness Gully.

Dancing Days are Hear Again...

2009-11-16T20:02:00.000-08:00

...as the winter nights grow?

Marcus and I got an early jump on the ice season. Conditions were a little bit spartan up north, but there was more than enough ice for four days of climbing. More than anything we knocked some rust off, sized up some future objectives and readied ourselves for the Thanksgiving weekend send-fest (hopefully!).

Day 1: We knew Nemesis had been climbed within the last few days but knew WI6 was probably not going to workout for our first day out this year. We wanted something a little easier and settled on Spray Falls WI5. Spray Falls was on the to do list after getting shut down a few years ago on a late season attempt with Chad. It was in very steep, albeit easy condition this year. Went down smoothly but we could have done without the 4-hr wait at the base while a party of very slow Albertans.

Day 2: After hearing of deteriorating avy conditions and that Will Gadd bailed we had to skipped our attempt on Nemesis. Instead we headed to the Ghost where there are no avy worries, at least we thought. Chad and I had climbed the Sorcerer, our intended route, a few years back (pretty good trip now that I think about it, we climbed Carlsberg, Kitty Hawk, Sorcerer in one trip). A massive cornice had formed up this year. Added to that feature was heavy winds and snow deposition that seemed to be loading the cornice. Did I mention the spindrift falling down, and up the climb? Needless to say we bailed. Unfortunately a 2.5 hr drive and 1.5hr approach didn't leave us any time to get on something else.

Day 3: Murchison is another climb that was on my grudge list. BJ and I had been on it but bailed when a nearby cornice collapsed. Marcus and I thought we might link up Murchison with Mixed Master. At 8 a.m. we drove past Murchison with a car already parked. We decided to reverse the link-up and head to Mixed Master. Mixed Master is dry... really dry. I would not be surprised if it doesn't come in this year. We headed back to Murchison. Leaving the car at 10:30 we thought we wouldn't have to wait too long. Unfortunately some guys from British Columbia were setting an anti-speed record on Murchison (what is it with slow Canadian ice climbers?). At 12:00 they were only starting the first pitch. Desperate after being shut down the previous day we got on the unformed Virtual Reality WI6. We only climbed one pitch but it ended up being a 30m WI5 with techy ice. I hope those Canadian brought headlamps because they probably only reached the base by nightfall.

Day 4: As per usual we hit Hafner on the way home. We didn't send anything incredible.... just worked some mixed routes that are pretty boney in the early season.

The uber-slow Albertans on the crux of Spray Falls.

Marcus heading up a WI4 leading to the crux of WI4.

Me posing for a picture just below the crux of Spray Falls. Not that I'm right at a screw or anything...

Me learning something about techy ice on Virtual Reality.

What's a gronk? Marcus on the send...

When Numbers Lie...

2009-10-28T21:58:00.000-07:00

During the past six months I’ve organized my training into a periodization scheme. I’ve consistently worked out for the past three/four years and have always made gains in times/weights/grades. However, my scheme has always been random and not focused on any goal per se.

Since, I’ve changed to a periodization scheme I have seen some incredible gains. These gains have are especially evident within any given period (i.e., strength, power, power/endurance, endurance). During each phase I have had dramatic improvement in my benchmark workout.
• Strength Phase – Increased dead lift 1 RM by 20%
• Power Phase – Increase output in benchmark WOD by 14%
• Power Endurance Phase – Decreased time in benchmark WOD by 22%
• Endurance Phase – Decreased time in benchmark WOD by 10%

These numbers are too good to be true. There is no way I am 10% stronger, powerful, faster, etc. in any one-month period. To what extent do these numbers represent habitulization, familiarization, and practice?

Currently, I’m working on the second cycle of periodization (i.e., I’m on my second power/endurance phase). I repeated my benchmark WOD from the original power/endurance phase. I was 13% quicker than my original effort during the first power/endurance phase. However, I was 10% slower than the final effort of the power/endurance phase. Does this mean I am 13% stronger or 10% weaker?

Since I am doing this for climbing maybe I should let my climbing do the talking… right? I’m still working on breaking through the plateau… maybe I need another cycle… maybe I need more climbing time?

For now, I’m just working on crushing my one-month phases and hopefully that will break me through plateaus and make me stronger/fitter over all.

Anybody have some ideas?

Hungry Like a Wolf

2009-10-07T14:38:00.000-07:00

Mighty Wolf Rock.

Low on route looking up at the roofs.

Looking down the scary fourth pitch.

Rodney earning full style points on the 10d traverse.

Nothing but exposure and run out traverses.

Given the solid high pressure and cool temperatures, Rodney and I were able to work on our tick-list a little bit. Barad Dur has always been touted as a serious hardman' climb, I think both of us had probably thought it was a bit over our heads. However, with sending temps we thought better of it and gave it a go.

I know that Wolf Rock is a volcanic plug but the rock seemed to range from junky basalt to almost a sandstone-esque type rock. There is really a good variety of cracks, slabs, incuts, open hands, etc.

It’s kind of hard to describe how big and rotten those roofs look from the ground. But I assure you they are huge and oh so rotten. In general the rock is solid and protectable when you really need it. Be prepared to solo or essentially solo 5.10.

Rodney took the sharp end linking the first two pitches. Really excellent run out open handed climbing. I got the next two pitches. The first was excellent quality but that’s where things changed. The fourth pitch was scary. I felt like I was playing one of the Super Mario Bros. levels where the blocks will fall away if you stay on them too long. Probably the worst pitch of the climb. Rodney got the 10d traverse and earned full style points. This pitch was pretty junky as well, but only after the crux. I gave it a go on the 11b pitch but had a take at the crux after botching the sequence. The traverse out right looks completely improbable and it took me a while to commit. Finally I took of the blinders, found the key features and protection and was able to mantle up. An incredibly exposed handrail leads right. I placed a nest of flared gear to protect from a 50 ft. swing into the wall… ouch.

It was an incredible climb. I can see why people will come back and repeat it time and time again.

It ain't always easy...

I Need More Weight!

2009-09-15T14:54:00.000-07:00

2x BW +5 lb DL... I think I need a couple more weight plates.

Enter the Dragon

2009-09-11T14:52:00.000-07:00

Sneaking in just after a rain storm and immediately before a stint at work, James and I had a good couple of days alpine rock climbing in the Stuart Range. We were a little apprehensive due to reports of a fresh foot of snow in the area, but the sunny weather resolved the situation quickly.

After an Inversion IPA induced late start, we set off for the snow creek wall hoping for an enchainment of Orbit and Outer Space. Outer Space had a party armed for bear, roping up at the first pitch. Orbit was empty so we headed that direction.

James climbing a splitter moderate crack on Orbit. I think Orbit is a better climb overall than Outer Space. However, Outer Space has a couple amazing pitches.

We finished Orbit quickly, but two more parties had gotten on Outer Space. We watched the lowest party as they spent nearly an hour leading a 30m 5.9. We were positive they were going to spend the next five hours on route, so we headed out for Gustav's.

Next up was the classic climb, Backbone Ridge. Neither James nor myself had climbed any rock routes on Dragontail. Essentially we had to get this classic off our ticklist. Teams seemed to take about 15 hours on route. Titans-Steelers had a 5:30 kickoff so we opted for a 3:00 a.m. start. We actually arrived about an hour too early to start climbing. We weren't sure how to get on route so we waited at the morraine until it was light enough to see.

It's actually quite easy and intuitive, but it looks improbable from a distance. The off-width felt a little spicy, but probably because I didn't lug up the requisite protection. Unless you want to take multiple large cams, which I did not, you are required to run the pitch out. A newer-generation #5 protects the first 50-feet with some slung chockstones. You have to leave this piece at halfway and go unprotected for the last 50-feet. I think a new-generation #6 might protect from 50-75-feet out, leaders shaky on off-widths will certainly want one. It felt a lot like 5.7-5.8 rather than 5.9.

From here on out, you just follow your nose, don't stray from the ridge crest too far.

We got confused up on the fin. I'm not sure Nelson's route description is based on reality. We couldn't find any of the feature he describes. In the end we climbed the fin in three pitches. We followed face cracks and left facing corners for two pitches, then James got the plumb pitch following flakes and face moves to the crest.

A couple more pitches took us to the summit and the long descent down Asgard pass.

James on pitch two just after the off-width.

James two pitches up the Fin, Colchuck Lake in the background.

The fin. We conected the left facing corners in the center via face climbing. The final pitch took us just left of the smaller gendarme on the right side of the Fin.

Stoked

2009-09-08T11:12:00.000-07:00

Still need to work out the kinks... but first off to Leavenworth for a couple days of climbing.

Be there... be square. Come for the beer if nothing else!

Long Road

2009-08-07T09:28:00.000-07:00

Jake and Dad nearing the Huandoy Pisco col.

First light on the Huandoy massif.

Dad and I on top. The real prize looms behind.

The guys had just four nights in Huaraz before heading for the hills. Not too bad, but given that we were pushing for near 6k, it might be a stretch.

After nearly two weeks of perfect weather, the day we left was, of course, rainy. We made decent time up to base camp, found a cave to pitch the Firstlight tent. The cave doubled as warm, non-windy, dry area for cooking and hanging out while the weather raged.

Originally we had planned to move our camp up to the morraine. However, the weather convinced us to stay put. We spent most of the day in the refugio with the guides, and later playing rummy and drinking Irish coffees. Probably not the best way to hydrate for a climb, but we weren´t sure the weather would lift.

We decided to wake up at midnight and leave if we could see stars. 0 hour came, not a cloud in the sky.

The road to the glacier was pretty gnarly. It took more than 4 hours to get there. The energy deficit set in. The climb wasn´t steep but had some sections that really push the unacclimitized. Dad and Jake dug down deep and pushed on. We reached the summit at 11 am with no wind, no clouds, nothing but 6k peaks.

Other than the blazing heat and dehydration the way down was uneventful. Cusqueña and sandwiches never tasted so good.

Deadline

2009-08-02T10:37:00.000-07:00

Marcus left at 11h30 for Lima. Jake and my Dad were arriving at 5h30 the following day. Knowing Churup was actually getting climbed this year, it was killing me to look up at the face each day. Finally, I convinced an Australian climber, Simon, to venture out for a quick trip.

We left Zarela´s at 1h, were at base camp by 4h. Racked up and got ready to set out early.

We set the alarms for zero hour. By 1h we had left camp and worked our way up the morraine.

The warm weather had changed the deep snow I plodded through a month earlier to firm neve. Travel was quick. At the bergschrund we roped up and started pitching out the climb.

A long simul pitch brought us to the real difficulties. A short rightward traverse then a steep mixed pitch. I didn´t find any protection... but didn´t look too hard because conditions were perfect and the rock was solid.

Simon lead an extremely fun exposed traverse left. Another pitch brought us to the face. 60 degree neve all the way to the top.

The climb was never hard or scary. It was just engaging enough to keep it interesting. If the face is in condition it is an absolute must do. Funest day trip from Huaraz!

Simon on the summit. Ranrapalca, Oschalpalca and Vallunaraju to his left.

60 degree neve for a long way.

Simon on the second mixed pitch.

King Me: Juego de los Reyes

2009-07-28T09:49:00.000-07:00

Marcus working up mixed ground. The climb never relented despite features that looked like they would offer easy travel. The ground was precarious.

The thin ice technician at work. Marcus dealing with thin, exploding ice, and runout dicey protection on the first pitch.

Marcus nearing the finish of the first M6 kingmaker pitch.

Will BD warranty these picks? 300 m of thin ice and mixed not treating our picks nice.

Pucaraju 5400m
Juego de los Reyes
TD+ 300m WI4 M6 5.8
FA: Marcus Donaldson, Nate Farr 7.26.09

On July 26 Marcus and I made an ascent of an unclimbed line on the south face of Pucaraju (5400m). The line follows a couloir immediately right of the line La Princessa au Petit Pois.

After an early morning start, and more essentially a French-press of Café Andino´s finest, we reached the bottom of the face and began climbing at 8 a.m. Reports from other parties indicated that it took around 5 hours to climb other routes on the face. We found conditions that were far less than optimal and rock that yielded little protection. These factors meant that we spent far more time digging for protection and establishing anchors than we did actually climbing.

Though the Cordillera Blanca is well known for its good weather, this season has been an anomaly. Snowy weather has been the dominant pattern and most technical routes on the big mountains have not seen successful ascents yet. We dealt with snow, low visibility, but luckily no wind throughout the entire day.

The gods of rock, paper, scissors deemed Marcus the winner and he set off on the first pitch. This pitch yielded the hardest ice climbing. Though only graded a WI4 it had very little in the way of protection. Also the ice was never more than, and usually less, than a couple inches thick. Did I mention it was rotten, and would often give way underfoot? No better incentive to climb up, than when your feet disappear beneath. Marcus established a belay at the first available spot, after a full 60m.

The next two pitches were less difficult, though consistently sustained. Both pitches were 50m long.

The end of the third pitch brought us beneath a mixed band which we had spotted from the base. Initially we expected it to be the crux of the route. Of course after the first pitch we hoped we were wrong. Unfortunately these pitches yielded sustained mixed climbing around M6 (probably M7 at times), difficult, less than optimal protection, thin ice, and rotten rock. Two 40m pitches brought us through the last of the difficulties.

A last 50m pitch up deep snow, neve, and some mixed put us on the summit ridge around 4 p.m.
Being so close to the equator, the sun sets very early in Peru. By 6:30 p.m. your headlamp will be on. Most parties seem to descend the line Adam and Eve on the far climbers´ left of Pucaraju. This line looked very snowy and we were unsure that would be able to find the raps from above. Near our final belay we saw a lonely rap station. After dealing with bad protection for the length of our couloir, we didn´t want to descend our route. We made the decision and descended one couloir climbers´ right of our route. I won´t say the rock was any better, but were able to partially use a couple of the established raps. Either the team that had previously used this descent had very long ropes, or the stations had disappeared. Marcus had to work very hard to find anchors. Sometimes he would spend up to an hour to get in two pieces that would hold more than body weight.

It started to snow very hard. After one particularly hard fought anchor, Marcus rapped into the darkness stood on the edge of a very steep cliff and looked around for a long time. At this point we weren´t sure if we were one, three, four or even more raps from the ground. His eye caught a glimmer from his headlamp, then tat… then a bolt. Someone actually packed a bolt kit and a shiny ½ inch bolt up and down Pucaraju! After dealing with several exploding rap stations, Marcus bounced hard on the bolt… it was solid. Happily, just 40m down we reached terra firma at 7:30 p.m.

Finding lemons... looking for lemonade

2009-07-20T14:56:00.000-07:00

Enter the choss: An hour out and 15 feet up, post 1000 pound block trundling.

Our desired route is the central couloir. Nothing but choss on the bottom.

On day one putting in a boot pack. We thought we had it in the bag, less than 500 ft. to the base. Two full days later we reached the face.

The view of what we needed to bridge.

Despite many pictures from three different years all showing a continous ice and mixed line... we found no such line. Most likely it's due to the strange weather this year. People are saying it is the snowiest winter in the past 30 years. I believe them. We have seen many major avalanches and have done more post-holing than I care to admit.

We set out for the Paron with a solid two-weeks of food. We came to hunt bear and make sure we gave an honest attempt on our project. This period would also serve for our acclimitization so we wanted it done right.

We spent the first three nights at 14,500 ft. Did some hiking and eventually moved our basecamp to 16,500 ft. We spent one day completely tent bound as the storm raged.

In total it took us the better part of three days to get a book pack up to the face. The snow hit Marcus' knees so I'll only let you guess where it puts the snow level on my frame.

Despite seeing from a distance that the snow was not continous we hoped to find crack systems or terrain condusive to mixed or aid climibng. No such luck. I spent over two hour trying two different obvious features to reach a ramp that would bring us within a pitch of the ice. I cleared probably a thousand pounds of rotten rock, ran it out, and never got more than 30 feet up. Without a HILTI I'm not sure this goes. Tried or look at every conceivable option... another year maybe.

No we are back in Huaraz as the mountains storm. Bad weather this season. The south faces are avalanches waiting-to-happen. We'll head to the seldom climbed, but this season climbable, Churup next. Looking for lemonade... still finding lemons.

PDX a Huaraz

2009-07-03T15:21:00.000-07:00

It began six months ago on the way back from a successful ice climbing trip to Lillooet. The plan was hatched, and thus far everything has fallen nicely into place. Marcus finished school a week-ago as a full fledged paramedic. I had just enough time to shift from full-time school to full-time work ensuring I could pay for the next two months.

Just a hours away from departure we're still scrambling. I'll work tonight and tomorrow. Marcus will likely work until 1-2 a.m. on July 5, then meet at the airport at 4 a.m.

The bags are packed. 200# limit between four bags, we're at 196#.

Entropy.

We received a lot of support for this trip. I'm not sure it would have been possible without the help. We're definately excited to get down there, do some climbs and come back to share it with everyone.

10,000 Box Jumps

2009-05-31T19:07:00.000-07:00

Warm weather or heavy snowfall has continually shut down my alpine dreams this Spring. At last, I needed to break free from local cragging and put some elevation behind me. The freezing levels were high, so we needed to climb higher.

Marcus escaping the sun with the Nisqually Icefall behind. I'm not sure I could have picked a more obscure route for my first trip up Rainier.

The icefall is not without hazards, especially with the sun beating down. We chose to climb fast, and at night. Marcus cruising neve somewhere on the lower icefall. We encountered three ice steps, one rather difficult, but all short or easy enough to merit grade III.

Because the route had only three short ice steps it means, unfortunately, that there is a whole lot of slogging. At least the views were nice.

The Other Creek Crag (with splitters)

2009-05-26T21:08:00.000-07:00

The worst part of Memorial Day Weekend is that everyone has it off. I've been spoiled by empty week-day crags, I couldn't handle visiting a crowded area on one of the busiest days of the year. I rolled the dice and headed to Trout Creek, figuring that the heat and grades would keep the crowds at bay. We saw half-a-dozen people and never waited for a climb, temps were managable, perfect...

The main wall at Trout Creek, OR.

David joining the Goldrush.

Awesome twin cracks. Called the Chinese Revolution. Technical stemming with a decent stance just when you absolutely need it.

David fighting the "Monster."

David on the very dificult opening sequence of the "Monster."

Beware. The climbs start at solid 5.10. Also, if you make tape gloves as poorly as me, you'll be resting your hands for a week following (like me). Can barely put my hands in my pockets but already excited for the next trip.

Make It Hurt

2009-05-23T14:13:00.000-07:00

If its starting too feel easy think again...

"There was an article on the CNN website about weight loss today. The subject recognized his lack of self-discipline so knew that trying to make radical changes wouldn't last. The only way he could remain consistent would be to make small changes, to do some things that weren't too inconvenient or uncomfortable.

He is quoted as saying, "I was probably drinking 10 Cokes a day." The author concluded that by drinking water instead of soda he saved 1,400 calories a day. Then he cut back on snacking. Before making the small changes he ate a 12-ounce bag of Doritos while watching television. The article makes it sound as though this was a daily occurrence and that by eating only a handful each day he removed 1,350 calories from his daily intake.
Apparently it took the fellow "several years to lose 45 pounds doing the 'small changes approach,' but he said it's been worth the wait, because he's more likely to keep the pounds off than if he'd made big changes."

So, the protagonist cut 2750 calories per day from his diet and it took "several years" to lose 45 pounds, less than 20% of his body weight? Wow, if this is the truth then no wonder people find it so darn difficult to strip away all that hard-earned blubber. And if this is the truth then our experience (and that of others) with remaking and remodeling the human body must be make-believe.

If the penalty and remedy is as comfortable and convenient as the sloth and lack of attention that brought someone to their weight-loss epiphany it will not be effective but articles like this and countless "painless" dietary interventions promise exactly that. For fuck's sake make it hurt, make it painful, make the penalty so heinous that no snack or treat could possibly be worth it and suddenly, dieting - or simply eating and drinking in proportion to expenditure - will be easy. Whether talking about diet or fiscal responsibility, a bailout won't change human behavior."

-From Gym Jones

Storming the Castle

2009-04-26T16:36:00.001-07:00

It's not often in the PNW that weather turns out to be better than forcasted. In fact, today was the only time I can ever remember the weather working for me. Clouds, rain and snow awaited us in Government Camp but as we worked up the winding road to Timberline stars began to appear. We left the parking lot with clear calm and cold weather... perfect.

Marcus cruising up the base of the ridge.

The long traverse.

Marcus climbing up to the ridgeline. It is worth doing this route for this one pitch alone. Cams, screws, pickets, stoppers, pick torques, ice and rock in one pitch.

Castle Crags is probably more interesting the way we did it, by turning up and climbing steeper ground to the ridge, only to rapppel off the backside back to the Zig Zag Glacier. There is so much interesting climbing on Mt. Hood even if they are less significant and not well-known routes. Even though we found probably half a dozen rappel stations on the backside of this route, it felt like we were the first ones there. Alpine climbing at its purest.

2 hr driving + 4 hr climbing + 8 hr TV

2009-03-28T11:17:00.000-07:00

I've been on the Icefields Parkway probably a dozen times and I've never had as beautiful a day as when we climbed the Weeping Wall. We had perfect bluebird skies, warm temps and no wind. I think all of us were foaming at the mouth for some alpine that day, but the avy activity was pretty intense, 28 degree slopes were sliding!

Chad ice, no, snow, no mashed potato climbing on the Weeping Wall Left. We were pretty happy to be off this one. Note to self: south facing + warm temps + direct sun = climb somewhere else.

Chad opted for an early return after running up Louise Falls with brittle conditions. Marcus, Wesley and I stayed on for two more days of climbing. The continued avalanche hazard sent us back to the lowlands. Marble Canyon has zero avlanche hazard which seeemed just the right amount. What we found was a very unique, awesome setting and steep lines with short mixed steps to climb out of the canyon. This is just across the road from Haffner with a five minute approach. Put this on the list for low motivation days.

Getting hooked on the Tokkum Pole.

As per tradition, on our drive out we stopped at Haffner Creek to get a forearm pump before we atrophy on the long car ride home. A M-line called "Swank" had caught our eye earlier in the week and we decided to give it a go. It ended up being another classic mixed line. The crux involved steep rock, a deep right hand lock off, and a shaft torque high with the left tool... wild. Throw in a couple difficult sloppy mantles and a difficult clip and you have an engaging mixed climb.

At my personal crux the akward mantle/difficult clip.

Wesley yarding up powerful moves off the deck on Swank.

What Happens in Prague Stays in Prague

2009-03-28T10:55:00.000-07:00

Spring had arrived in the Canadian Rockies. We were confronted with sunny skies, temperatures a little too warm for ice climbing and a pretty mean avy cycle. Despite this we were able to get good climbs in every day of the trip. In the process we discovered some gems in areas always overlooked.

Day 1: Looking for a warmup we headed to Carlsberg. Avalanche danger was considerable, but it is a protected climb from all but the biggest alpine slides. Once up pitch one we saw a powder blast from a slide down Heineken Hall... time to go. We salvaged the day with an afternoon run up Louise Falls.

Day 2: 50 degree temps predicted, we decided to skip the ice and stick to mixed. Bear Spirit crag fit the billing and we found a fun line "Spoiler" on the walls left side. Powerful moves up a steep corner crack yielded to a stem onto the ice and 20 feet of bolt protected ice hooks. A must do if you ever find yourself at Bear Spirit.

Spoiler works up the obtuse corner behind the tree trending right toward the ice.

Day 3: Whiteman Falls is typically out-of-shape by late March but recent reports indicated otherwise. 8 inches of snow fell overnight but it didn't affect this gem. A couple hours of skiing and hiking brought us up to this wild piece of ice.

Whiteman Falls

The first pitch started on the right side, traversed around to the left working through an ice chimney and through a tunnel into a protected ice cave on the left. The third pitch climbed out the ceiling of the ice cave before pulling onto a long pitch of verticle and overhanging ice. Amazing exposure, an absolute must climb.

Climbing out the ceiling of the ice cave on Whiteman Falls.

We opted for a rest day to refuel and refresh for an attempt on Curtain Call the next day. Curtain Call saw several ascents this season with reports of soft spring ice. Emboldened by our experience on Whiteman Falls we went for it. Unfortunately temperatures dropped 40 degrees over the 24 hours before our attempt. We found extremely fragile chandy ice, not soft spring ice. The lone line that had ice stable enough to be reasonable had multiple contraction fractures thorugh the pillar. In retrospect we would have been better off going a day earlier when it was more plastic. Disappointing to miss our opportunity but definately on the tick list for next year.

Curtain Call

New York State of Mind

2009-02-24T15:11:00.000-08:00

Reports from Snoqualmie Pass had indicated that the area was in fantastic shape. Ice was formed up on routes that normally are dry. Given the three-day weekend I had just enough time to eschew my responsibilities for a few hours and try my hand at New York Gully.

This was actually my third attempt, the first two-never getting more than 10 min from the car.
1. The first attempt ended in Issaquah when my Andrew Stones Jones' car dropped its transmission and caught on fire. Thankfully we had full nalgenes and were able to avert total catastrophe.
2. The second attempt ended just minutes from the car in the face of a deep isothermic snowpack.
3. During the third attempt we had stable snow, favorable weather and GPS coordinates!

Chad following the first pitch. We climbed the first pitch in a long 110 m simul pitch to a distinct dead snag below the box gully.

Here I am leading the box gully. There were just enough tool slots and protection opportunities to make this feel pretty sane. It ended up being 65m to a solid belay stance.

Chad exiting the box gully to our third belay stance.

Chad leading dead verticle snice to the offwidth. We were able to free both the offwidth and the aid section above. In all reality it goes at akward 5.9 M4. A final simul traverse right brought us to the descent and literally 45 min to the car!

The routes on Snoqualmie Mountain are great but their proximity to Seattle has hyped them 10-fold. In all reality NYG is equivalent to I-Rock in length and quality. I want to get back for Pineapple Express but if I'm desperate and time is short I-Rock is a great option.

More than just a Lillooet

2009-01-09T14:49:00.000-08:00

Work on New Year's Eve and school on Monday left us a short window. After considering Canmore with its 14-hour drive and -40 degree temps we headed toward BC and Lillooet. Lillooet, which is normally just a little wet, was freezing cold, -4 our second day. Of course, anticipating borderline freezing temps we brought our shells and left our puffys in Portland. The snap freeze brought birttle fragile ice, but fortunately little running water.

Finally nabbed Icy BC on our first day. It was a party though, one team in front of us from Squamish and Don Serl and Marc LeClerc behind us.

Marcus following pitch 1. Hardest grade 3 ice ever.

Marcus leading the second pitch. The top of the third pitch can be seen overhead. We climb left through two caves than straight up. It was steeper than it looked.

Me coming off the deck on Carl's Berg. It was actually a little less steep than Icy BC's final pitch but bad ice convinced me to leave it for another day. Similar conditions were found at the Sailor Bar area where I really started getting good at hanging from screws and putting in v threads.

The Black Dike

2008-12-31T08:40:00.001-08:00

After getting skunked by warm temps this past January, we finally got on the black dike. I think this route certainly has a more fearsome reputation than it deserves... its really a quick climb. We did it in three pitches Wi3, Wi4Mnothing, Wi3. Even though its short and far easier than its rated the position is incredible and the quick mixed section adds a lot to this route.

We arrived in enough time to watch the day's first party spend 2 hours on the top half of the first pitch. Finally they bailed and we became first in line.

Here's the route's crux. The short mix step takes you to the ice which is actually vertical, brittle and thin. Only 20 feet though.

Andrew on the top out.

After an epic 6 hour drive (it wouldn't be a trip with Andrew epic jones without an epic) we opted for a quick hit just 15 min from home base. Andrew here starting up the verglas-thin first pitch at Bristol Cliff, VT.

Chasing Windmills

2008-12-29T10:29:00.000-08:00

Gorge ice forms up so infrequently, rarely is it good for more than a short period. Days spent hiking up to nothing more than spindrift and snow. When it forms up nicely you can take your rock picks off the tools, sharpen your crampons and slay the dragon.

Beach side climbing on the lower tier of Cape Horn. Five individual lines formed up this year. The leftmost and rightmost lines formed up fat and Wi5. The center three had wild chandelier features, mushrooms, daggers and were STEEP! All lines were about 70-80m long.

Me climbing the leftmost line. Dowel pullups finally paying off...

Marcus on the rightmost line battling super-chilled water.

Ancient Ancestors let my ice tool be your arm...

2008-12-02T08:41:00.000-08:00

Another great trip to the Canadian Rockies. Where do I sign up for Canadian citizenship? I need to move to Canmore in a big way.

Day1: Climbed at Ranger Creek area. Got on R + D and Chalice.
Day2: Polar Circus. Got stuck behind Jasper climbers... who knew Canadians could climb ice so slow? Decided the only thing more daunting than waiting another hour and a half, after already waiting two, was rapelling behind them in the dark.
Day3: Unintentional rest day. Evan Thompson Creek not in. Pushed the season on one route, ended up with a long down climb and a v-thread. Climbed Chantilly, literally the Reality Bath of the drainage... look out for pine cone fall!
Day4: Haffner junk show + drive home.

Jeep Cherokee advertisement.

Marcus on R+D.

Walking over to the Chalice. Donn following first pitch, Chad belaying.

Marcus following on pitch one of the Chalice.

Chad leading R+D.

Delta Force Alpine Special Ops

2008-11-25T12:24:00.000-08:00

0100: Delta force reaches insertion point undetected, under cover of moonless night.

Delta force member prepares for blitzkrieg assault.

Approaching the "crux."

The long right trending traverse.

High on the route.

1000 Delta Force reaches the summit.

60 Days

2008-11-03T11:26:00.000-08:00

2008 was the best rock climbing season I've ever had. Season started in February climbing at Ozone with Dave. We climbed all but two routes at Ozone this year. Managed a couple spring trips to Smith, got handled, got very close to getting Wartley's... next year. Lot's of days at Beacon.

2008 Beacon Favs:
Steppenwolf 10d
Borderline 11b
Takes Fist 10d
Bluebird 10a
Powerline 11b
Free for Some 11a
Headcase 11a

Had a good alpine rock trip to the Sierra climbed the Hulk and Mathes.

Some failures too... Squamish didn't go as planned. But there is always next year.

Here's to 2008!

Step'nwolf 5.10d

Colfax Peak Cosley-Houston

2008-10-26T10:30:00.000-07:00

It's tough being an ice climber in the PNW. We travel 10,000, take off work, go broke, get skunked consistently, all for half the climbing days that somebody in UT, CO, or MT can get without really trying. Once and a while though, some local water ice forms up in mid-October.

With clear cold weather forcasted Chad and I took off work and headed up to the ol' stomping grounds of the Mt. Baker N side to try our hand at one of the Colfax Peak ice routes.

We took a quick look at the prize, the Polish Route. It looked terrific for the first half, the second half had mixed climbing to an overhanging curtain and then a free hanging icicle. It looked Wi6-7 to me, more than I could handle our first day out. We end ran a crevasse and headed another 15 min. up the hill to the Cosley-Houston. The route is mostly moderate with a couple pillars to surmount over the 6-800ft.

Chad picked rock and took the sharp end for the first lead.

You can see me at the top of the first Wi2 section. Chad is camoflaged in the rocks atop the first piller.

The first pitch ended up being 80m after I yanked the belay and simuled. Chad was able to put a screw in and reach the top of the difficulties before I had to climb. The first pillar was significantly harder than it appeared. A full pitch of it would be Wi6 but we estimated it Wi4+/5 because of its length.

I'm at the base of the second pillar, Chad is still at the rocks.

The second pitch was another long simul affair. I had quite a bit of difficulty with my umbillical set up at the base of the pillar. Note: don't use Nano wires because they invert and prevent you from holding on to the pommel. After some fussing and complaining, I just climbed the pitch which felt like solid Wi4 because the ice was very aerated and chandeliered.

The final pitch was a ~200m of simul climbing joy. Perfect neve, water ice, rock pro, and a top out to a calm sunny summit.

We ended up climbing the route in 3 hours and 3 pitches. Great day out for the start of ice season. My palms, ankles and calves are crying though...

Chad on the first Wi2 step (the one I am seen standing on-top-of on the first picture). A little thin, and a little funky considering it's the first ice I've touched since March.

Chad in the thick of it. It was a great lead. 80m with an overhaning crux right at the end and all while carrying a pack.

The summit. Stick a fork in Chad, he's done.

Conness and the Crest

2008-08-13T13:10:00.000-07:00

We still wanted to go for a big climb. The SW Face of Conness is a 1200ft. 5.10c. The approach is hard to nail, the pitches are long, there is a 50m offwidth, in other words a handful. We took off at 5am, doing the first bit in the predawn light. With the thunder of Dana still on our minds we proceeded carefully as a few errant clouds blew through.

Andy on the summit plateu headed down to our face.

The SW Face from the notch. The route heads through the steepest part in the center. Long story short we took too long to reach the start of the climb. Made it to within 20ft of the end of the offwidth... just three pitches from easier ground and had to make a difficult decision. Bail, or push ahead and chance a forced bivy 1000ft up. The last 20ft of the offwidth were difficult, and 20ft from extremely questionable bolts from the 1950s. We bailed. It stings a little bit but we were drinking beer by 10pm instead of hanging from our harnesses in the icy wind.

Two days later we went for an easy day on the Mathes Crest. Extremely easy, a good day on exposed terrain. With beers waiting at the car.

A Hard Rains Gonna Fall

2008-08-13T13:00:00.000-07:00

We woke up to dark clouds and the knowledge that the Dana Plateau is not a good place to be in a thunderstorm. We just hoped we could make it out before the inevitable afternoon storm.

Andy on the plateau above Mono Lake.

The striking Third Pillar of Dana.

Sporting the Lawrence of Arabia look... you know... without the sodomy.

We agreed that we would bail when we heard thunder. That happened one monster pitch from the top. After five or six scetchy raps, we were back on the ground below the plateau just as an impressive bolt struck down near us. We ditched our gear and ran for cover. After a half an hour we climbed back up to the plateau and ran for the cars. The best part of dissapointment is how good the beer tastes afterward.

The Incredible Hulk

2008-08-13T12:36:00.000-07:00

Perfect rock. I don't need to say anything else.

Andy running up easy ground at the start of the Red Dihedral.

Andy climbing on the summit ridge complex.

Tunneling to the top.

The Incredible Hulk not looking lame. The Red Dihedral is on the right skyline of the Hulk.

Mt. Stuart Direct NW Face

2008-07-21T11:02:00.001-07:00

Just becasue the author of the guidebook had the FA doesn't make it a "classic" route. This route has moments of greatness coupled with miles of loose, mossy, rope drag, 4th class simuling that makes it just not really worth doing. I'll come back to Stuart's NW face but it will be covered with snow and ice when I do.

Here I am on the second pitch... the beginning of the crap. We apparently missed the first pitch which is supposed to go at 10+, it felt like solid 11/12 though I mostly did it at C1.

Here's the money pitch. The perfect corner is just that, but very short. We linked three pitches into one with a 60m rope. Your on the perfect corner for less than half of it. Don't go too high. I ended up a solid 30-40 feet above my last piece of pro which was not solid and an additional 10 feet from a solid cam. The crack completely peters out, the climb revs up a notch and it makes you scared and not happy. Managed to wiggle in a marginal RP and down climb back to safety. Most of Kearney's pitches are only 15m long!

James following the second pitch.

We ended up doing the route in 18 hours car to car. Could have moved a tad faster, could have carried less, but a decent time all told. Thankfully we summited so we don't have any compelling reason to come back to this route.

Finger of Fate

2008-07-21T10:32:00.000-07:00

The Finger of Fate East Face was so good it deserved its own entry. On our last day James and I went to do the FOF car to car. The route gets no hype what-so-ever but it really deserves some. The first two pitches are the business ringing in at mid 10 and mid 11 but they get five stars out of four. Perfect hands, perfect corner, perfect gear, it has it all.

The roof on the second pitch.

The route takes the right facing open book.

James following the spectacular first pitch.

James nabbing the best part of open book route, the double cracks.

James "holding up" the summit block.

Poco's Sawtooth Sandwich Extravaganza

2008-07-21T10:08:00.000-07:00

After a seeing a soggy forcast for our intended Picket's trip, Chad, Donn, James and I headed instead for a week of alpine rock in the Sawtooths, ID.

Donn had a score to settle with Warbonnet Peak that included an injured climbing partner and a $10,000 rescue. We spent a day approaching Warbonnet, a day on the climb, and a day out. A nice and easy schedule. Everything went perfectly except for Chad's new boots which rubbed his heels raw.

After getting out... and maybe indulging in a few, James, Donn and I went to climb the Stur Chimney on Mt. Heyburn. It's one of the Sawtooth Classics at only 5.4 and a worthy route, though only two pitches. Best part is the blue TCU I snagged without a nut tool mid-route.

The spectacular 5.6 finish to Warbonnet. You get a bolt that wouldn't hold your hat and a pin that even sweet baby Jesus-lying in a manger watching his Young Einstein developmental tapes, learning about shapes and colors-couldn't make hold a fall.

Donn on the summit of mighty Mt. Heyburn.

Approaching Warbonnet.

The best part of the Sawtooths (besides a Poco Sawtooth sandwich, Chad)... the boat ride.

Beckey-Chouinard Beta Photos

2008-06-27T22:41:00.000-07:00

Right off the belay from pitch 4 as per the Atkinson-Piche guide.

Pitch 6. You can see this feature very prominently on page 276 of Atkinson-Piche.

The Great White Headwall. Head for the chimney dihedral on the left. Lost in the Towers follows the crack going up and right.

Here's the route's crux. Make sure you have a #3.5 for this one, I'd probably throw in a big hex too. We did it with just the hex, but it didn't go very smoothly. My buddy got lost on the next pitch (#11) heading too far left. You want to move right into the obvious left facing corner. Pitch 12 can be hard with a pack, but after that you're nearly home-free.

Looking over the Atkinson-Piche topo again, I'm pretty sure we neglected to do the 20m rap after pitch 15. That probably accounts for most of our difficulty between the top of that pitch and the summit.

Also, when approaching the first pitch of the route stay on the right side of the ridge crest, we stayed left and it probably cost us 1/2 hour.