When Numbers Lie...

During the past six months I’ve organized my training into a periodization scheme. I’ve consistently worked out for the past three/four years and have always made gains in times/weights/grades. However, my scheme has always been random and not focused on any goal per se.

Since, I’ve changed to a periodization scheme I have seen some incredible gains. These gains have are especially evident within any given period (i.e., strength, power, power/endurance, endurance). During each phase I have had dramatic improvement in my benchmark workout.
• Strength Phase – Increased dead lift 1 RM by 20%
• Power Phase – Increase output in benchmark WOD by 14%
• Power Endurance Phase – Decreased time in benchmark WOD by 22%
• Endurance Phase – Decreased time in benchmark WOD by 10%

These numbers are too good to be true. There is no way I am 10% stronger, powerful, faster, etc. in any one-month period. To what extent do these numbers represent habitulization, familiarization, and practice?

Currently, I’m working on the second cycle of periodization (i.e., I’m on my second power/endurance phase). I repeated my benchmark WOD from the original power/endurance phase. I was 13% quicker than my original effort during the first power/endurance phase. However, I was 10% slower than the final effort of the power/endurance phase. Does this mean I am 13% stronger or 10% weaker?

Since I am doing this for climbing maybe I should let my climbing do the talking… right? I’m still working on breaking through the plateau… maybe I need another cycle… maybe I need more climbing time?

For now, I’m just working on crushing my one-month phases and hopefully that will break me through plateaus and make me stronger/fitter over all.

Anybody have some ideas?

Hungry Like a Wolf

Mighty Wolf Rock.



Low on route looking up at the roofs.




Looking down the scary fourth pitch.




Rodney earning full style points on the 10d traverse.

Nothing but exposure and run out traverses.

Given the solid high pressure and cool temperatures, Rodney and I were able to work on our tick-list a little bit. Barad Dur has always been touted as a serious hardman' climb, I think both of us had probably thought it was a bit over our heads. However, with sending temps we thought better of it and gave it a go.

I know that Wolf Rock is a volcanic plug but the rock seemed to range from junky basalt to almost a sandstone-esque type rock. There is really a good variety of cracks, slabs, incuts, open hands, etc.

It’s kind of hard to describe how big and rotten those roofs look from the ground. But I assure you they are huge and oh so rotten. In general the rock is solid and protectable when you really need it. Be prepared to solo or essentially solo 5.10.

Rodney took the sharp end linking the first two pitches. Really excellent run out open handed climbing. I got the next two pitches. The first was excellent quality but that’s where things changed. The fourth pitch was scary. I felt like I was playing one of the Super Mario Bros. levels where the blocks will fall away if you stay on them too long. Probably the worst pitch of the climb. Rodney got the 10d traverse and earned full style points. This pitch was pretty junky as well, but only after the crux. I gave it a go on the 11b pitch but had a take at the crux after botching the sequence. The traverse out right looks completely improbable and it took me a while to commit. Finally I took of the blinders, found the key features and protection and was able to mantle up. An incredibly exposed handrail leads right. I placed a nest of flared gear to protect from a 50 ft. swing into the wall… ouch.

It was an incredible climb. I can see why people will come back and repeat it time and time again.

It ain't always easy...

I Need More Weight!

2x BW +5 lb DL... I think I need a couple more weight plates.

Enter the Dragon

Sneaking in just after a rain storm and immediately before a stint at work, James and I had a good couple of days alpine rock climbing in the Stuart Range. We were a little apprehensive due to reports of a fresh foot of snow in the area, but the sunny weather resolved the situation quickly.

After an Inversion IPA induced late start, we set off for the snow creek wall hoping for an enchainment of Orbit and Outer Space. Outer Space had a party armed for bear, roping up at the first pitch. Orbit was empty so we headed that direction.



James climbing a splitter moderate crack on Orbit. I think Orbit is a better climb overall than Outer Space. However, Outer Space has a couple amazing pitches.

We finished Orbit quickly, but two more parties had gotten on Outer Space. We watched the lowest party as they spent nearly an hour leading a 30m 5.9. We were positive they were going to spend the next five hours on route, so we headed out for Gustav's.

Next up was the classic climb, Backbone Ridge. Neither James nor myself had climbed any rock routes on Dragontail. Essentially we had to get this classic off our ticklist. Teams seemed to take about 15 hours on route. Titans-Steelers had a 5:30 kickoff so we opted for a 3:00 a.m. start. We actually arrived about an hour too early to start climbing. We weren't sure how to get on route so we waited at the morraine until it was light enough to see.

It's actually quite easy and intuitive, but it looks improbable from a distance. The off-width felt a little spicy, but probably because I didn't lug up the requisite protection. Unless you want to take multiple large cams, which I did not, you are required to run the pitch out. A newer-generation #5 protects the first 50-feet with some slung chockstones. You have to leave this piece at halfway and go unprotected for the last 50-feet. I think a new-generation #6 might protect from 50-75-feet out, leaders shaky on off-widths will certainly want one. It felt a lot like 5.7-5.8 rather than 5.9.

From here on out, you just follow your nose, don't stray from the ridge crest too far.

We got confused up on the fin. I'm not sure Nelson's route description is based on reality. We couldn't find any of the feature he describes. In the end we climbed the fin in three pitches. We followed face cracks and left facing corners for two pitches, then James got the plumb pitch following flakes and face moves to the crest.

A couple more pitches took us to the summit and the long descent down Asgard pass.



James on pitch two just after the off-width.



James two pitches up the Fin, Colchuck Lake in the background.




The fin. We conected the left facing corners in the center via face climbing. The final pitch took us just left of the smaller gendarme on the right side of the Fin.

Stoked

Still need to work out the kinks... but first off to Leavenworth for a couple days of climbing.

Be there... be square. Come for the beer if nothing else!

Long Road

Jake and Dad nearing the Huandoy Pisco col.



First light on the Huandoy massif.



Dad and I on top. The real prize looms behind.

The guys had just four nights in Huaraz before heading for the hills. Not too bad, but given that we were pushing for near 6k, it might be a stretch.

After nearly two weeks of perfect weather, the day we left was, of course, rainy. We made decent time up to base camp, found a cave to pitch the Firstlight tent. The cave doubled as warm, non-windy, dry area for cooking and hanging out while the weather raged.

Originally we had planned to move our camp up to the morraine. However, the weather convinced us to stay put. We spent most of the day in the refugio with the guides, and later playing rummy and drinking Irish coffees. Probably not the best way to hydrate for a climb, but we weren´t sure the weather would lift.

We decided to wake up at midnight and leave if we could see stars. 0 hour came, not a cloud in the sky.

The road to the glacier was pretty gnarly. It took more than 4 hours to get there. The energy deficit set in. The climb wasn´t steep but had some sections that really push the unacclimitized. Dad and Jake dug down deep and pushed on. We reached the summit at 11 am with no wind, no clouds, nothing but 6k peaks.

Other than the blazing heat and dehydration the way down was uneventful. Cusqueña and sandwiches never tasted so good.

Deadline

Marcus left at 11h30 for Lima. Jake and my Dad were arriving at 5h30 the following day. Knowing Churup was actually getting climbed this year, it was killing me to look up at the face each day. Finally, I convinced an Australian climber, Simon, to venture out for a quick trip.

We left Zarela´s at 1h, were at base camp by 4h. Racked up and got ready to set out early.

We set the alarms for zero hour. By 1h we had left camp and worked our way up the morraine.

The warm weather had changed the deep snow I plodded through a month earlier to firm neve. Travel was quick. At the bergschrund we roped up and started pitching out the climb.

A long simul pitch brought us to the real difficulties. A short rightward traverse then a steep mixed pitch. I didn´t find any protection... but didn´t look too hard because conditions were perfect and the rock was solid.

Simon lead an extremely fun exposed traverse left. Another pitch brought us to the face. 60 degree neve all the way to the top.

The climb was never hard or scary. It was just engaging enough to keep it interesting. If the face is in condition it is an absolute must do. Funest day trip from Huaraz!



Simon on the summit. Ranrapalca, Oschalpalca and Vallunaraju to his left.



60 degree neve for a long way.



Simon on the second mixed pitch.