Friday, June 27, 2008
Right off the belay from pitch 4 as per the Atkinson-Piche guide.
Pitch 6. You can see this feature very prominently on page 276 of Atkinson-Piche.
The Great White Headwall. Head for the chimney dihedral on the left. Lost in the Towers follows the crack going up and right.
Here's the route's crux. Make sure you have a #3.5 for this one, I'd probably throw in a big hex too. We did it with just the hex, but it didn't go very smoothly. My buddy got lost on the next pitch (#11) heading too far left. You want to move right into the obvious left facing corner. Pitch 12 can be hard with a pack, but after that you're nearly home-free.
Looking over the Atkinson-Piche topo again, I'm pretty sure we neglected to do the 20m rap after pitch 15. That probably accounts for most of our difficulty between the top of that pitch and the summit.
Also, when approaching the first pitch of the route stay on the right side of the ridge crest, we stayed left and it probably cost us 1/2 hour.