My family rented a condo in Canmore during Christmas. I knew that I wouldn't be able to be in the Canadian Rockies and not sneak away for at least one climb. Luckily I met a couple guys off gravsports-ice.com and we planned to run up the Icefields Parkway and climb Mixed Master. The guidebook touts it as the best mixed climb in the Canadian Rockies and it didn't disappoint.
The end of December is a tad late to climb Mixed Master as it tends to come in early and then fall apart as the season progresses. So, we got the climb in spicy conditions. The first pitch which was supposed to go at WI4, formed up as a thin vein of ice, overhanging in sections. Here Pierre tackles a steep section on the first pitch.
Anton leading the first pitch. He definitely had his head screwed on for this lead.
Here's a shot of the leftward rock traverse. The feet were almost entirely sloping slabs and the handholds went from nice edges and pick torques for your tools to stellar laybacking with hands. Unfortunately this pitch ran a tad long, forcing Pierre and Anton to simulclimb. In the process, Pierre took a block of ice to the face. The blood started pouring out and the decision was made to head down. All in all, its a great climb that I would love to finish when I make it up to the Rockies in early season again.
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