After getting skunked by warm temps this past January, we finally got on the black dike. I think this route certainly has a more fearsome reputation than it deserves... its really a quick climb. We did it in three pitches Wi3, Wi4Mnothing, Wi3. Even though its short and far easier than its rated the position is incredible and the quick mixed section adds a lot to this route.
We arrived in enough time to watch the day's first party spend 2 hours on the top half of the first pitch. Finally they bailed and we became first in line.
Here's the route's crux. The short mix step takes you to the ice which is actually vertical, brittle and thin. Only 20 feet though.
Andrew on the top out.
After an epic 6 hour drive (it wouldn't be a trip with Andrew epic jones without an epic) we opted for a quick hit just 15 min from home base. Andrew here starting up the verglas-thin first pitch at Bristol Cliff, VT.
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