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Friday, August 12, 2011

Snow Creek Slow Cooker

Psychopath Pitch Crux

Marcus pulls the roof on pitch three.

Marcus jams steep cracks and flakes on pitch four.

Pitch four close up.

The chimney right before the Pressure Chamber.
In the spirit of revisiting the ol' ticklist Marcus and I spent a day this week climbing Hyperspace.  Believe the hype, Hyperspace is good.... real good.  Fully admitting that I'm not a rock hotshot I found the climbing pretty challenging, though with some move specific beta much more obtainable.  First off, expect some physical climbing.  The upper portion of Hyperspace reminded me more of Yosemite style chimneys and bombays than anything I've seen in Washington.  By the time I topped out, I felt pretty beat up.  You don't need to worry about saving your tips because you only use knees, elbows, forearms, ass and back to get up this thing.  It seems like the perfect Yosemite training route.  I'm looking forward to getting back on this and hopefully finishing without feeling like I went ten rounds.

I won't delve into specific beta as Blake's entry on Mountain Project is spot on.  I will say that brassy offsets or rps should work well on the Psychopath pitch but the first 2/3 protects well with tcus.  Also, the pressure chamber is not an offwidth problem its a stemming problem.  Although it must have been pretty humorous going inverted with a thigh jam in a squeeze chimney... at least for one of us.  Blake's suggested grades seemed pretty accurate as well, though I wouldn't call any of them easy for the grade.  Take doubles from green c3 to #3, don't forget some stoppers including rps and possible some offsets.  No #4 needed and you could probably swing it with just one #3.  We took ~12 slings and used almost every sling each pitch.

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