This year winter starts in mid-January.
Despite an early fall storm and an early start to the ski and ice seasons, January found us with conditions more reminiscent of fall than winter. Snow was minimal in the alpine leaving many faces dry when typically they would be icy. In normal years I wouldn't even consider heading for a rock face if I had stable snow and weather in January, but this year is different.
Taking advantage of the rare conditions, Blake suggested we complete the first winter ascent of Colchuck Balanced Rock West Face. Aided by a well packed trail due to a Denali training trip (thank you sloglodytes!) and firm neve we had an easy approach on the first day and camped beneath the face. On the second day we slept in a little to avoid the brutal temperatures completed the climb and started the descent. We summited just as the sun set and made a hasty descent reaching the car from the summit in just three hours.
Winter climbing is another game entirely. The "easy" pitches that collect snow and ice provided the crux and the "hard" steep pitches were mostly straightforward aid, french-free and free climbing. Blake ripped out a cam while french-freeing on the first pitch setting the tone of the climb and essentially set the tone of the climb. I found a snow and ice chocked corner that made me dig barehanded in the snow for placements and left me with a rp rat nest anchor. Blake had an especially exciting snow and turf mantel on the third pitch which would have been made easier by the tools accidentally left at the belay. The remaining "hard" pitches to the summit were straightforward and devoid of snow.
Blake and I actually had fun while climbing that route. Winter climbing is rarely enjoyable in the moment and usually in retrospect the miseries are as memorable as the joys. That we actually enjoyed ourselves should be a statement to the quality of the climbing, the weather and the experience.
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| Walking across a frozen Colchuck Lake with CBR W Face in the sun upper left. |
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| Exciting climbing on the "easy" pithces |
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| Jugging the corner |
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| Following the crux pitch |
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| Summiting in the twillight |
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