Mighty Wolf Rock.
Low on route looking up at the roofs.
Looking down the scary fourth pitch.
Rodney earning full style points on the 10d traverse.
Nothing but exposure and run out traverses.
Given the solid high pressure and cool temperatures, Rodney and I were able to work on our tick-list a little bit. Barad Dur has always been touted as a serious hardman' climb, I think both of us had probably thought it was a bit over our heads. However, with sending temps we thought better of it and gave it a go.
I know that Wolf Rock is a volcanic plug but the rock seemed to range from junky basalt to almost a sandstone-esque type rock. There is really a good variety of cracks, slabs, incuts, open hands, etc.
It’s kind of hard to describe how big and rotten those roofs look from the ground. But I assure you they are huge and oh so rotten. In general the rock is solid and protectable when you really need it. Be prepared to solo or essentially solo 5.10.
Rodney took the sharp end linking the first two pitches. Really excellent run out open handed climbing. I got the next two pitches. The first was excellent quality but that’s where things changed. The fourth pitch was scary. I felt like I was playing one of the Super Mario Bros. levels where the blocks will fall away if you stay on them too long. Probably the worst pitch of the climb. Rodney got the 10d traverse and earned full style points. This pitch was pretty junky as well, but only after the crux. I gave it a go on the 11b pitch but had a take at the crux after botching the sequence. The traverse out right looks completely improbable and it took me a while to commit. Finally I took of the blinders, found the key features and protection and was able to mantle up. An incredibly exposed handrail leads right. I placed a nest of flared gear to protect from a 50 ft. swing into the wall… ouch.
It was an incredible climb. I can see why people will come back and repeat it time and time again.
I know that Wolf Rock is a volcanic plug but the rock seemed to range from junky basalt to almost a sandstone-esque type rock. There is really a good variety of cracks, slabs, incuts, open hands, etc.
It’s kind of hard to describe how big and rotten those roofs look from the ground. But I assure you they are huge and oh so rotten. In general the rock is solid and protectable when you really need it. Be prepared to solo or essentially solo 5.10.
Rodney took the sharp end linking the first two pitches. Really excellent run out open handed climbing. I got the next two pitches. The first was excellent quality but that’s where things changed. The fourth pitch was scary. I felt like I was playing one of the Super Mario Bros. levels where the blocks will fall away if you stay on them too long. Probably the worst pitch of the climb. Rodney got the 10d traverse and earned full style points. This pitch was pretty junky as well, but only after the crux. I gave it a go on the 11b pitch but had a take at the crux after botching the sequence. The traverse out right looks completely improbable and it took me a while to commit. Finally I took of the blinders, found the key features and protection and was able to mantle up. An incredibly exposed handrail leads right. I placed a nest of flared gear to protect from a 50 ft. swing into the wall… ouch.
It was an incredible climb. I can see why people will come back and repeat it time and time again.
It ain't always easy...
2 comments:
Nate, I don't know anything about this route. It looks like you and Rodney had fun. But it also looks like you USED THOSE DARN BOLTS!! And I read online that there are potentially some old bolts, and/or new bolts, and/or bolts near pins, and/or still exciting runouts, and/or cranky old curmudgeons who like to argue about this stuff interminably online. Bottom line: I'm just not sure we ca be friends any more.
It was fun. I need to remember to never ever write anything with the words bolt or piton on CC.
I know, apparently I need to trust every pin at Beacon except the ones he hasn't maintianed... which apparently include the route I was working a couple weeks ago. Glad he mentioned it... you know yesterday.
Getting very very over the PDX bullshit... not that I'm bitter or anything. Enjoy the front. I have some buddies out there particularly if you're looking to get into the mixed game.
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