During the past six months I’ve organized my training into a periodization scheme. I’ve consistently worked out for the past three/four years and have always made gains in times/weights/grades. However, my scheme has always been random and not focused on any goal per se.
Since, I’ve changed to a periodization scheme I have seen some incredible gains. These gains have are especially evident within any given period (i.e., strength, power, power/endurance, endurance). During each phase I have had dramatic improvement in my benchmark workout.
• Strength Phase – Increased dead lift 1 RM by 20%
• Power Phase – Increase output in benchmark WOD by 14%
• Power Endurance Phase – Decreased time in benchmark WOD by 22%
• Endurance Phase – Decreased time in benchmark WOD by 10%
These numbers are too good to be true. There is no way I am 10% stronger, powerful, faster, etc. in any one-month period. To what extent do these numbers represent habitulization, familiarization, and practice?
Currently, I’m working on the second cycle of periodization (i.e., I’m on my second power/endurance phase). I repeated my benchmark WOD from the original power/endurance phase. I was 13% quicker than my original effort during the first power/endurance phase. However, I was 10% slower than the final effort of the power/endurance phase. Does this mean I am 13% stronger or 10% weaker?
Since I am doing this for climbing maybe I should let my climbing do the talking… right? I’m still working on breaking through the plateau… maybe I need another cycle… maybe I need more climbing time?
For now, I’m just working on crushing my one-month phases and hopefully that will break me through plateaus and make me stronger/fitter over all.
Anybody have some ideas?
Since, I’ve changed to a periodization scheme I have seen some incredible gains. These gains have are especially evident within any given period (i.e., strength, power, power/endurance, endurance). During each phase I have had dramatic improvement in my benchmark workout.
• Strength Phase – Increased dead lift 1 RM by 20%
• Power Phase – Increase output in benchmark WOD by 14%
• Power Endurance Phase – Decreased time in benchmark WOD by 22%
• Endurance Phase – Decreased time in benchmark WOD by 10%
These numbers are too good to be true. There is no way I am 10% stronger, powerful, faster, etc. in any one-month period. To what extent do these numbers represent habitulization, familiarization, and practice?
Currently, I’m working on the second cycle of periodization (i.e., I’m on my second power/endurance phase). I repeated my benchmark WOD from the original power/endurance phase. I was 13% quicker than my original effort during the first power/endurance phase. However, I was 10% slower than the final effort of the power/endurance phase. Does this mean I am 13% stronger or 10% weaker?
Since I am doing this for climbing maybe I should let my climbing do the talking… right? I’m still working on breaking through the plateau… maybe I need another cycle… maybe I need more climbing time?
For now, I’m just working on crushing my one-month phases and hopefully that will break me through plateaus and make me stronger/fitter over all.
Anybody have some ideas?
5 comments:
Hey Nate-
Personally I think that if you want to climb better you should be doing those periodizations in climbing workouts. decrease the amount of xfit you do.
Eessentially I would do P-E on climbing holds (long, harder bouldering or sport routes). Hangboard to get strength at home (both with and w/o tools), and do some powerful bouldering or campusing (in control) to build power. for endurance just do volume of the style of climbing that most resembles what you're wanting to do. remember that strength is slow to build and must be maintained, but that endurance can be trained up in as little as a couple weeks.
If you're wanting of good definition of these periods in a climbing workout, Mike Doyale's competition climber document is really good: http://www.mikedoyle.ca/climbing/coachingdoc.pdf
I also think Will Gadd's recent training blog posts echo these ideas: http://gravsports.blogspot.com/
DB (Dave?) thanks for the suggestions. Decreasing gym time and increasing sport specific time is one change I've institute in the past few months. Currently, I only train in the gym twice a week. That leaves 3-4 days for sports specific and volume work. I have been following periodization in my climbing as well (i.e., hangboarding during strength, bouldering for power, routes and 4x4s for power/endurance, etc.)
I guess I'm just having trouble getting feedback from my training. I'm not really climbing harder than before. Am I recovering quicker, could I be climbing harder than I am, am I stronger/fitter? I don't know?...
what's your rest like?
i think there is strong empirical evidence for an anecdotal belief that being stronger overall without being heavier will result in better climbing. So more kool aid...but...you gotta rest.
ever read http://www.rockclimbing.com/Articles/Training_and_Technique/The_Making_of_a_Rockprodigy__258.html ?
it might be interesting to you...i think folks approach ice/mixed as if it had nothing to do with rock. my ass. anyway, mike (aka rockprodigy) is pretty fucking strong...
Another thought: one month is almost certainly too short for really effective periodization. The folks that did the most empirical research (USA/USSR olympic team scientists) found that for most athletes, it's more like a 6 to 8 week period.
And of course, climbing harder is probably the wrong metric to use at the beginning of your "scientific" training regime. I would not expect to see real gains in terms of climbing harder for at least 18 months, but I would expect to see a substantial gain in climbing durability and climbing density. How many 5.10 pitches in a row could you lead before you felt like taking a rest when you began versus today?
I really don't want to be at work today. poop.
Graham,
Thanks for the input. I agree maybe I need a longer period to see gains in climbing. Looking back I believe I have definately seen a gain in durability. I am able to climb more hard pitches in a day and climb again the next day. Recovery seems to be greatly increased from a few years ago.
Agreed work sucks... so does school. Alright got to act like I'm listening to lecture now...
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